Pictures of paintings was taken and color balanced for lighting under studio lights. Looks great on camera. Took SD card and inserted on computer and viewed pictures. Viewed with a bluish cast. Not true to color or duplicates camera's. Puzzled. Wpuld be interested in some comments from knowledgeable. Thanks
Were you shooting RAW? If so what you saw on the camera was a JPEG created by the camera and what you saw on the computer was generated by whatever software you were using. Another possibility is monitor calibration is off.
they were all Jpeg. How do you calibrate a monitor?
j2tx wrote:
they were all Jpeg. How do you calibrate a monitor?
Can you please post an example of your image in question so that others may give you a more informed answer?
Google.. How do you calibrate a monitor? Also why you should shoot in RAW. Good luck! When you shoot in Jpeg you are letting the camera dictate what it thinks it sees versus in RAW it just captures what is in front of it with no processing at all in camera.
I'm in the corner of those that suggested calibrating your monitor. That is critical if you wish to see accurate colors and brightnesses. Check out Datacolor Spyder.
--Bob
j2tx wrote:
Pictures of paintings was taken and color balanced for lighting under studio lights. Looks great on camera. Took SD card and inserted on computer and viewed pictures. Viewed with a bluish cast. Not true to color or duplicates camera's. Puzzled. Wpuld be interested in some comments from knowledgeable. Thanks
j2tx wrote:
they were all Jpeg. How do you calibrate a monitor?
Did you use custom white balance? If working in raw, did you photograph a white balance reference target?
Monitor calibration requires a colorimeter and software. Datacolor and X-Rite make them.
If you need near-PERFECT color, get a 10-bit monitor card, a 10-bit monitor made for color evaluation, an X-Rite i1 Display cal kit, a ColorChecker Passport, and Adobe Lightroom CC. Print to an EPSON P-Series printer.
Google ICC color management for clues...
j2tx wrote:
Pictures of paintings was taken and color balanced for lighting under studio lights. Looks great on camera. Took SD card and inserted on computer and viewed pictures. Viewed with a bluish cast. Not true to color or duplicates camera's. Puzzled. Wpuld be interested in some comments from knowledgeable. Thanks
Since the images are already taken, you could adjust the white balance in pp. Usually will take care of it. If not, try adjust/decrease blue saturation or lighten shadows.
Future - either make sure the wb is what you need or use auto-wb in the camera. Calibrate your monitor.
I have shot museum art collections.
Did you include a grey card in the scene?
Did you shoot in Raw?
If you did both, this is easily fixed in post. If not, I would reshoot. Sounds like your light was flash or daylight and your camera was set for Tungsten. Reshoot it, you can't fix the color fidelity as far as a fine rat painting goes if you shot JPEGs.
j2tx wrote:
Pictures of paintings was taken and color balanced for lighting under studio lights. Looks great on camera. Took SD card and inserted on computer and viewed pictures. Viewed with a bluish cast. Not true to color or duplicates camera's. Puzzled. Wpuld be interested in some comments from knowledgeable. Thanks
Unless mentioned monitor is calibrated you can't really tell how it is, only a print will tell! If you used raw, it it easy to get rid of the color cast in pp, but like I said, to be sure you'll need a calibrated monitor!
burkphoto wrote:
Did you use custom white balance? If working in raw, did you photograph a white balance reference target?
Monitor calibration requires a colorimeter and software. Datacolor and X-Rite make them.
If you need near-PERFECT color, get a 10-bit monitor card, a 10-bit monitor made for color evaluation, an X-Rite i1 Display cal kit, a ColorChecker Passport, and Adobe Lightroom CC. Print to an EPSON P-Series printer.
Google ICC color management for clues...
Any of the "photo" series printers will do (either Epson or Canon), I use an "old" Epron R1800 with no problemas.
j2tx wrote:
Pictures of paintings was taken and color balanced for lighting under studio lights. Looks great on camera. Took SD card and inserted on computer and viewed pictures. Viewed with a bluish cast. Not true to color or duplicates camera's. Puzzled. Wpuld be interested in some comments from knowledgeable. Thanks
Color balance your monitor
First off, LCD monitors are very good for color right out of the box these days and stay good for years and don’t stray majorly off balance. How could a monitor be so badly balanced that one wouldn't notice the imbalance on their display but could see it on an unbalanced print?
Second, Color calibration is usually not the answer to color print issues. Have you noticed that it never makes a huge difference in the colors that you see after it's calibrated? So how could it have a major effect on the result?
Monitor calibration is never an issue unless one solely color corrects by the seat of their pants without checking the numbers. If you are color correcting and printing by the numbers using the Auto Color adjustment in Levels or Curves, it doesn't matter if your monitor is cracked or broken, the numbers won't lie. The colors will be correct. If they are not, look to something else.
Tell me how monitor calibration affects the file? Monitor calibration is nice but the main thing is not to have it set too dark or too light. To color balance your files:
1. Make sure your Auto options in Levels and Curves are set correctly. If you don't know how, Google "Auto options in Levels and Curves" Then,
2. Before you are ready to print, or at anytime, open a Levels adjustment layer on top of your layer stack, or Background. Click the Auto button, which no one uses because it's been unfairly dissed, and voila! your file is instantly color corrected and balanced for the most part. There are always exceptions for tonality, one could prefer a dark or a light picture for instance, but white and black points will be set with this button and color casts will be removed.
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