dandi Loc: near Seattle, WA

I don't think you can have good all around prime lens; for head shot and landscape for example, you will need two different lenses. Two prime comes to my mind (35mm 1.8 G DX and 85mm 1.8 G). I have them and like them a lot. If I want to go on a trip with just one lens, it's of course - 35mm 1.8 for DX camera.

CO

If you're going to be hand holding the camera a lot take a look at Tamron's new SP series prime lenses. The nice thing about them is that they all have stabilization. They have a metal lens barrel and are fully weather sealed. The new lenses are the 35mm f/1.8, 45mm f/1.8, 85mm f/1.8, and 90mm f/2.8 macro. I bought the 45mm f/1.8 for my Nikons.

Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA

A fast prime lens is for shooting in lower lighting without flash, and to get a shallow depth of field. I have a DX camera and like the Nikon 50mm f1.4 autofocus lens I got used on ebay for less than $200. It can work as a portrait lens, but is not really a landscape lens unless you want to shoot 2 or 3 vertical shots then blend them into a panorama. Your wide angle 18mm is best for landscapes.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Not necessarily at all.

Don't succumb to the hype and G.A.S.

If your current line up of lenses and you can articulate it thusly:

"Darn it! That's the 4th time this month I needed to take this shot and my lenses aren't the right type!"

Then you are in need of a prime lens.

Otherwise...you are just following the same money sucking path many of us (including myself to the tune of thousands of dollars) have done.

Resist and have fun taking the best pictures you can instead of spending money.


Buy experiences, not gear.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

Video Vinny Loc: Pahrump

My lens kit consists of Nikon DX VRII Gs - 18-55, 55-200, 18-200 (for that middle range so I don't have to change lenses, I shoot mostly stage shows from various distances), for the long range stuff I couldn't afford the big tellies so went to the p900 (which turned out to be a great kick in the butt). I've used all of them for portraiture with success; however, without total satisfaction. Tried the 50mm 1.8 prime (portraits only) and have used it for portraits ever since. The other equipment serves everything else I need. I think that how one uses their lenses makes a lot of difference. What works for me may not work for you so experimentation is the key. I suggest taking the exact same shots with different lenses under identical conditions and settings. That will tell you the story.

With portraits at 35mm I find a little distortion between the nose and the eyes, a real problem when large snouts are involved, enough so I do not use it anymore. The distortion is almost all gone with the 50mm prime. I've tried the 85mm prime and it is even better but I don't have the room to stand that far back so the 50 is best for me.

Hope this helps. You will soon know who the real pros are here. Listen to these pros in this group, don't let the malcontents get to you and you will learn a lot. I find that I can even learn from them . Good luck. (By the way, My go to camera is the d5300)

moonhawk Loc: Land of Enchantment

You didn't mention whether you're using FX or DX camera. It makes a big difference when discussing what lenses work for you in different situations.

Kmgw9v Loc: Miami, Florida

Don't listen to the hype---You need a 35mm 1.8 DX Prime!

moonhawk Loc: Land of Enchantment

asiafish Loc: Bakersfield, CA

Since your camera has a crop sensor, I would recommend the 35mm f/1.8 as it has the same field of view as a 50mm lens on full frame. A 50mm lens is what is commonly known as a standard lens, because it sees with a similar perspective to your eyes, and adds a certain edge to portraits while remaining useful for scenics. Problem is that is for full-frame, on your D3200 a 50mm will function much like an 85mm lens, which is great for head and shoulder portraits, but lousy for group shots or anything where you want to include some context. 35mm on the crop sensor duplicates 50mm on full frame.

Bill_de Loc: US

You say you need a prime because that's what you read. Take everything you read with a grain of salt. A publisher says it's time for an article on prime lenses, a writer obliges and writes about prime lenses. A couple of months later the publisher wants something on zoom lenses, and lo and behold, all you need is a couple of zooms. Even here, in less than two pages you have differing opinions.

I will add my two cents, just for you to think about. The reason for zoom lenses is so you can cover multiple types of subjects with one lens. For many years they were, in general, inferior to prime lenses. Not so much today.

Buying a prime lens you need to decide what you really want it for. A 50mm lens was considered a 'normal' lens on film and full frame digital camera based on the focal length. On a DX camera a 35mm provides close to the same field of view, so could be considered normal. It will do some thing fairly well, but would do better with landscapes and group shots than it would for portraits.

As mentioned above, the Nikon 35mm F1.8 DX lens is inexpensive and sharp. It feel cheap handling it, but gives great results. I have a pretty good selection of lenses at my disposal, and this is a favorite. I would think it a good choice to get your feet wet with primes. If you like it, it will be your first, not your last.

The first four pictures in this thread were shot with the 35 1.8

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-392851-1.html

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TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

You should consider a prime when the type of work you're doing requires it, not because it's been suggested to you. While primes may be a little sharper (modern high quality zooms are very good), the main attributes are speed (and the attendant bokkeh) and secondarily, size/weight. Let me give you a couple of examples. Over the last few months, I had occasion to shoot two indoor events, both in low available light where a flash was inappropriate. One was my son's wedding, being shot by professionals, but I wanted some shots of my own. The second was a Christmas party where multiple blue grass bands gathered to jam. I have good quality zooms covering everything from 17mm to 400mm (and I love zooms), but the fastest (a 70-200 f2.8) was too big and heavy to carry around as a casual shooter and a participant in the wedding and too slow for the bluegrass pickin. I bought an 85mm F1.8 prime (used on a FF body) specifically for these events, but I'm finding more and more use for it. Why? Because even at F1.8, I was shooting between ISO 6400-12,800 to get the shutter speed I needed. Not only would the 70-200 2.8 have been big, obvious and heavy, it was just too slow, whereas the F1.8 allowed me to use the shutter speed I needed while staying within a (barely) acceptable ISO, and the light weight and low profile was a big help. I did find that it was a little too long in close quarters with a group, and that's gotten me thinking about addding a wide angle fast prime.

Finally, tonight I shot several high school wrestling matches with my 70-200 f2.8. It was exactly the right lens for the situation, allowing me to shoot wide open at 1/350 and ISO 6400 with no flash. BUT, after holding a 4lb body + grip and a 3 lb long lens for many hours, I've been wondering if a 135mm f2.0 or a 200 mm f2.8 might be a lot easier on my body. These may not be the kinds of shoots that you do, but they're good illustrations of where a prime can be the right choice.

Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

What you need first is advise on efficient investment in effective gear.

The last thing you want at this stage are specialty lenses. Invest in versatile lenses that can cover the widest range of your intended work and at the highest possible quality within your budget.

You don't need prime lenses!

The zooms you have cover the needed range of focal lengths, but they are average quality consumer grade lenses. Look at higher quality, perhaps even Nikon's "pro" lenses. Sigma, Tamron and Tokina also make quality lenses. To save money consider used and refurbished. KEH is an excellent source, as are BHPhoto and Adorama. If you are careful eBay works too.

asiafish Loc: Bakersfield, CA

I believe just the opposite. No need for clunky slow zooms when good primes are sharper, faster and with far better control over planes of focus.

le boecere

Agree. Take pictures till your needs become obvious, rather than be driven by wants, GAS, or internet opinion. Then, with some coaching from "the 'hogs", you'll pick just the right lens for those needs.