Lens for shooting soccer at night (Page 2): If all else fails, shoot raw, see if you can under expose a couple of stops and bring it up in post, that may help with shutter speed and if...

blackest Loc: Ireland

If all else fails, shoot raw, see if you can under expose a couple of stops and bring it up in post, that may help with shutter speed and if its still noisy sometimes black & white can be more forgiving.

If not enjoy the game.

You probably can't use flash, but using one with a snoot i think its called might extend the reach.
I made one from black straws cut to around 3 inches glued into some card board that sits over a speed light the effect is like a spotlight. It's a good effect anyway , even if it doesn't get your light far enough in this case.

leftj Loc: Texas

Gene51 wrote:

That's an F2.8. If it was a F2 I'd run down there right now and buy it, then turn around and sell it for $4500, the going rate for that lens.

If I had some ham I'd have some ham & eggs if I had some eggs.

Dond

Have you considered using electronic flash? I used to take photos from the sidelines of college football games at night a long time ago using film and a camera that had an f 5.6 lens. I used a big electronic flash and had to watch for action that came fairly close to me to photograph. The electronic flash stopped the motion. There was no such thing as autofocus so I had to pre-focus for a distance, say 20 feet, and take the photos when the subject(s) came into that range.

leftj Loc: Texas

Dond wrote:

Have you considered using electronic flash? I used to take photos from the sidelines of college football games at night a long time ago using film and a camera that had an f 5.6 lens. I used a big electronic flash and had to watch for action that came fairly close to me to photograph. The electronic flash stopped the motion. There was no such thing as autofocus so I had to pre-focus for a distance, say 20 feet, and take the photos when the subject(s) came into that range.

Wow! - You were setting off a flash in the players faces. Why was that even allowed?

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

That exact situation is one of the main reasons I moved to a FF. There was a used 5D3 on the UHH buy & sell in the last few days for ~$1500. Not a cheap solution, but one that will buy you 1-2 stops of higher usable ISO with equivalent noise , which you can then translate into a higher shutter speed or greater DOF. I routinely shoot (raw converted in DPP) at ISO 10,000 - 12,800 with a 5D3 with little noticeable noise.

billnourse Loc: Bloomfield, NM

I started shooting night sports, football and soccer, with a Canon 70D and 70-300L. Could not get really acceptable results so I sold the 70-300 and got a 70-200L f2.8. Things got better, but still not very good. Went to FF 5D mk 4 with the 70-200 and am now able to shoot at 6400 with acceptable results most of the time. I do shoot from the side lines.
I just found that I couldn't get the ISO high enough with the crop frame.

Bill

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

Looking at cameras such as the Nikon D500, I believe that high-ISO is where the industry is going with respect to shooting sports. Purchasing a camera, even a crop-sensor one, which handles high-ISO well will ultimately be more cost-effective than purchasing a constant wide-aperture zoom lens.

catchlight.. Loc: Wisconsin USA- Halden Norway

Again the Canon 135mm f/2.0 at $998 will get you the in a good light and sharpness range at a reasonable cost...

rayadverb wrote:

Thanks to all for the helpful replies.

Additionally...
This is a very good way to manage your images with higher ISO (or any photo) in Photoshop. Great results with different applications especially managing noise.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIa_XenL4QU

GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan

rayadverb wrote:

My daughter plays soccer, and I take a lot of pict... (show quote)

When I cover a night High School soccer game, (just as in football, it depends on the lighting they provide which is general worse than most football fields. I mainly use manual, my 70-200 2.8, about 2500-3200 ISO, and try to get at least 1/800 or 1/1000 although when action stops I quickly reduce that to about 1/320.

Position: I often get the best shots about 3/4 of the way down the field, (daytime keep the sun to you back or side. Night is similar but make sure you have the lens hood on since those lights can mess things up very easily). Try both sides and half way between the goal and the side line.

***Shoot in RAW, most dark photos can be lightened in post and look good, (noise wise).

There are several locations I see "yearbook" photographers using what looks like an older crop-Canon, the "A" setting and their kit lens. Thinking to myself, Good Luck!

When I spoke at one of the local high school yearbook groups, I never told them but was amazed at the garbage they accepted. The print companies do a great job fixing them up.

Gpa-15 Loc: Tinton Falls, NJ

GOAL: To get a decent 8x10 of a Night HS Soccer game from Stands.
---Isn't there a Camera{shooting 4K video} or a Camcorder that allows 'Frame-Grabbing'.? --- --- I've shot video on my iPod and used the FREE
'VideoPix' App to get 'precise' moment desired.

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

As a professional sports photographer, the only real solution to your issue is something like the D5 combined with something like a 400mm/2.8 or longer prime lens. If you don't want that level of investment, there is always the D500 and the 70-200/2.8. Accomplishing this job, even with the best equipment, takes experience which only comes from practice. Knowledge of the sport and the team is also very helpful. You really can't buy your way into this field! (Canon makes similar systems, but I shoot Nikon so can't point to any specific Canon body. Canon makes similar high-end lenses). Whatever you choose, a front row seat (on the field) is where you need to be. Best of luck!

ggab Loc: ?

I use a Tamron 70-200 F/2.8 with an EOS 7D and get good results at night.
It of course varies depending upon where the lights are and where the players are. How bad are the shadows etc.
The Tamron will run F/2.8 across the zoom range which is important.
Not a pro, just a soccer fan.
My $0.02 worth

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

rayadverb wrote:

My daughter plays soccer, and I take a lot of pict... (show quote)

I would try using a speedlite. Buy a frame, speedlite and a Better beamer: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/427602-REG/Visual_Echoes_FX3_FX3_Better_Beamer_for.html

I wouldn't think using flash on outdoor events would be a problem.

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

jeep_daddy wrote:

I would try using a speedlite. Buy a frame, speedlite and a Better beamer: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/427602-REG/Visual_Echoes_FX3_FX3_Better_Beamer_for.html

I wouldn't think using flash on outdoor events would be a problem.

Flash photography for athletics is often not allowed as it could affect the outcome of the event and/or could temporarily blind the player(s). Not a good choice at all! Also, flash is not effective across or down the field unless you have multiple, and very powerful units. Just look at the lights, how big and bright they are, and how low the light level is at the ground. If you look around for press/pro photographers, I doubt you will see them using flash for sports action. For other shots, yes, but not during the game. With the equipment available today, it's really not needed, but the right equipment is big bucks! YMMV. Best of luck.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

catchlight.. wrote:

A Used 200mm f/2.0L, $529...

https://www.adorama.com/us%20%20%20%20839207.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAtK3DBRCBxt-Yxduq5p4BEiQAbFiaPcyezE-xwYAyeOpt2UNqZFGCwvUZKjlD0dYWM364kWcaApoR8P8HAQ

I frickin' WISH it were the f/2.0 for that price! I already had my credit card out and ready to use, but then saw it's a used f2.8 at the link. Meh.