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Todays question is shooting black cats
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Dec 28, 2016 18:24:23   #
melueth Loc: Central Florida
 
Gene51 wrote:
I use reflective readings interpreted using the zone system exclusively when using ambient light. When using flash, as I did for for the first shot, I take incident reading with a flash meter. With a black cat I usually add a small amount of extra exposure (I think 2/3 stops) to make the cat less "black" and then darken it in post processing.

Cats have a lot of attitude - "Cattitude" - which makes it a lot of fun to capture.

Here are some great candids of black cats:

https://iso.500px.com/beautiful-black-cats-photos/
http://www.boredpanda.com/i-photograph-black-cats-to-promote-adoption/
I use reflective readings interpreted using the zo... (show quote)


VERY informative, Gene. Thanks so much for some great instruction and photos.

Marylea

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Dec 28, 2016 18:50:52   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
melueth wrote:
VERY informative, Gene. Thanks so much for some great instruction and photos.

Marylea


You're most welcome!

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Dec 28, 2016 18:55:28   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
Rick from NY wrote:
I am reading the various comments about the pros and cons of incident and reflective metering. I would have agreed that incident metering in the days of film was almost a necessity unless you were Adam's like in your zone theory. But with today's instant review on the lcd screen, it makes much less difference. I would agree that an incident meter will most often yield the better exposure, but I seldom have the motivation to pull out my handheld meters when it is so easy to do a reading from the camera meter, adjust on the fly based on my experience and then just chimp the image and adjust as necessary. I actually don't think I have dragged out my Gossen in the past 15 years, even with studio flash portraits. It is just so damned easy to use today's amazing technology and wing it. If I meter a black dog and don't like how it appears in the screen (and the histo), it takes less time for me to adjust via aperture, SS or ISO than it would take to walk over to the cat, take the reading and set my camera manually.

It used to take skill to make well exposed photos. Now, many times, an amateur with an entry level DSLR set to program mode can often make a great image by pointing and shooting. Agreed that the case of a black critter requires some understanding of 18% gray, but all a newbie has to do is set the camera on program, shoot a 5 shot bracket set for 1/2 stop intervals and pick the best shot.
I am reading the various comments about the pros a... (show quote)


We used to chimp with medium and large format back in the day - it was done with a Polaroid film back. Once the shot was set up it was a simple matter to get a test shot using polaroid instant film, then adjust whatever needed adjusting based on the test shot. It just took a lot longer, but it did save a lot of time and $$$ wasted on bad takes.

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Dec 28, 2016 19:03:38   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
HillbillyHiker wrote:
Several folks have mentioned getting the cats to "pose". It ain't gonna happen. If the cat is active it needs to be shot like a sporting event. Anticipation is key.

Please ignore the background. The shelter where I shoot want allow me to remove them from their "condos".


Love the shot! Beautiful cat and a great expression!



Anticipation and being ready is what it's all about - they do "pose" but it is just a fleeting moment. That's why I spend at least 15 minutes interacting with each cat I shoot - just to get a sense of what he/she is all about. I take most of my better shots in the last 2-3 minutes before the next "victim" is up.

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Dec 28, 2016 21:47:36   #
Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY
 
I use a Canon digital on the back of large format now to test for film. Sometimes I just use the digital shot. My avatar here is digital from the back of an 8x10 camera.

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Dec 28, 2016 23:09:10   #
NoSocks Loc: quonochontaug, rhode island
 
burkphoto wrote:
Use flash or PHOTO GRADE CFL or LED lights in large soft boxes. The light needs to wrap around the hair shafts so they shine. Meter a calibration target or use an incident flash meter that is precisely calibrated to your camera. DO NOT METER THE CAT. Use a custom white balance off a gray card or a One Shot Digital Calibration Target.


Bravo Mr. Burke.

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Dec 28, 2016 23:53:36   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
NoSocks wrote:
Bravo Mr. Burke.


Thanks. It's an old-school approach. But it works. But do it before you put the cat in the scene...

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Dec 29, 2016 00:10:27   #
GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan
 
bdk wrote:
I was asked to come to a shelter and just shoot the black cats.
Im told they cant get a good pic of black cats, they say the never look good. They just use pop up flash on a point and shoot

so IM taking my soft box and the small softbox that fits my speedlight and im going to give it a try.

anyone have any suggestions on other lighting, positioning the lights etc...
and of course IM sure some of you will suggest heavy gloves, or bolting the equipment to the floor when the cat takes off from the flash...
I was asked to come to a shelter and just shoot th... (show quote)


Try these:
http://heartsspeak.org/2014/09/6-tips-photographing-black-animals/
http://www.dummies.com/pets/dogs/how-to-avoid-problems-photographing-black-dogs/

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Dec 29, 2016 00:50:50   #
BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA
 
http://earlthedeadcat.com/

Dye them all black and take photos to your hearts content.

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Dec 29, 2016 04:53:35   #
Sunrisepano Loc: West Sub of Chicago
 
The best photos posted here, especially of the horse have back or side lighting. Light from the sky behind the horse wraps around the horse giving texture. The cat that has a window to the side highlights the fur adding texture. Put one light to the side or above the subject and use the incident meter to have it at the same intensity or up to two stops less light than your main front light. It's the same thing people portrait photographers do to highlight hair, giving it texture and shine (but not too much shine).

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Dec 29, 2016 10:47:20   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
Mogul wrote:
http://earlthedeadcat.com/

Dye them all black and take photos to your hearts content.


To a videographer or film sound recordist, a "dead cat" is a furry sleeve slipped over a microphone to reduce wind noise outdoors...

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Dec 29, 2016 10:48:32   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
Sunrisepano wrote:
The best photos posted here, especially of the horse have back or side lighting. Light from the sky behind the horse wraps around the horse giving texture. The cat that has a window to the side highlights the fur adding texture. Put one light to the side or above the subject and use the incident meter to have it at the same intensity or up to two stops less light than your main front light. It's the same thing people portrait photographers do to highlight hair, giving it texture and shine (but not too much shine).
The best photos posted here, especially of the hor... (show quote)




Absolutely.

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Dec 29, 2016 10:49:58   #
Dan Mc Loc: NM
 
.22 short unless they are fast movers, then a #8 .410.

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Dec 29, 2016 18:56:56   #
BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA
 
burkphoto wrote:
To a videographer or film sound recordist, a "dead cat" is a furry sleeve slipped over a microphone to reduce wind noise outdoors...

Back in the day of monstrous wired Shure miss, film-based video and tube type peripherals, we called them mike-muffs, muffs and a slew of words that are now politically unacceptable.

I used to be in charge of setting up the PA system for PT at Ford Ord (sixties - basic training in A-4-3). You do not want to know what the DI's called them!

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