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17-55 lens on my new D810
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Dec 23, 2016 15:08:57   #
ddub
 
I recently got a Nikon D810. The problem I have is my 17-55 2.8 lens, when it is wide open I can see the lens hood in the view finder.

Is there a different lens hood that will still work with this combination of lens and camera?

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Dec 23, 2016 15:11:33   #
rgrenaderphoto Loc: Hollywood, CA
 
No, it's the nature of extreme wide angle. Just crop it out in post or learn how to use Photoshop's healing brush.

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Dec 23, 2016 15:16:12   #
GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City
 
Just to be sure, you do know that the 17-55 is a DX lens, right?...ie: made to cover the smaller sensor of a crop sensor camera.
Great lens... for a DX body.
You're not going to get full use out of it with a full-frame body.


The vignetting should go away by about 25 mm or so, I think.
The D810 is here at work with me and the 17-55 is at home, so I can't tell you exactly.

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Dec 23, 2016 15:30:30   #
ddub
 
Yes I normally use it on my DX body I just didn't realize the vignetting with the hood and the 810.
Not a big deal I also have the 14-24 which I normally use for real wide angle.

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Dec 23, 2016 15:40:42   #
GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City
 
ddub wrote:
Yes I normally use it on my DX body I just didn't realize the vignetting with the hood and the 810.
Not a big deal I also have the 14-24 which I normally use for real wide angle.


Good.
I've never used the 17-55 on the D810, just played with it.
I'm angling to get a D500 at work.
Anything you don't like about it?

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Dec 23, 2016 15:43:02   #
ddub
 
Absolutely love it. It is everything it is advertised to be. For wildlife it is truly amazing the focus locks on and won't let go. I have some flying bird pics I would have never have gotten in the past. Hand held.

You will love it.



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Dec 23, 2016 15:47:51   #
Bugfan Loc: Toronto, Canada
 
The post preceding mine is your answer. That lens is designed for a smaller sensor called an APS-C size. This was the last film format, called the Advanced Photo System, that Kodak had developed when the world started to go digital. The D810 is a full frame or FX sensor, it's the same size as a 35 mm negative had been.

To keep costs down the manufacturers started in digital with APS-C sensors and this sensor is still very popular among entry level cameras. When that format hit the street the manufacturers began to develop lenses for that smaller sensor. These lenses are smaller and lighter and cheaper than the more traditional sized ones and they tend to be targeted to the consumer market though professionals do sometimes use them too. Later on the full frame 35 mm sensor finally came to market. At that point it was possible to utilize the strength of the lenses that had been designed initially for film. In this category those lenses also got expanded but they are heavier, larger and more expensive though they also tend to produce superlative quality images.

If you use a DX lens on a Nikon FX camera body the camera will accept it but it can't fill the frame because the lens is designed for a smaller sensor only. The image circle provided by the DX lens doesn't cover the entire 35mm sensor. You can take pictures as you please and they'll still come out super, just smaller, and you may have to crop them too.

Now that you've embarked in the FX world of photography you will need to save up for your first FX lens. Once you start using one you'll never go back again, you'll really start to appreciate the power of the D810.

One other thing you need to know ... in the DX world wide angles aren't, even the widest lenses tend to appear less wide. Only when you go to FX as you did with the D810, will you get really wide views from an FX lens. When it comes to a long reach, DX lenses give 1.5 times more reach giving you dramatic telephoto effects whereas FX lenses don't. So when you do start to acquire FX lenses keep in mind that the visual effect will be different.

Since this is new for you, I'd suggest going to a camera store to try out their FX lenses in order to get a sense of what focal length(s) you need. As you become more experienced you'll intuitively know what each focal length actually looks like but until that happens it's safer to try each lens that interests you. And in this case avoid going on the cheap. The resolution of the D810 is such that it will also capture any lens defects. You don't want that to happen. And in terms of cheap, that doesn't mean staying away from makers like Sigma and Tamron, many of their lenses are cheaper but of equal quality to Nikon glass. In addition to eight Nikon lemses I actually also have three sigma lenses and I love them all.

Enjoy your D810 and the FX world. I've had a D800 from the day they were announced, it's an amazing camera particularly when coupled with quality FX lenses.

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Dec 23, 2016 15:50:34   #
ddub
 
Thanks I do have an FX 14-24 2.8. lens.

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Dec 23, 2016 17:10:09   #
robertjerl Loc: Corona, California
 
Illustration of FF vs APS-C [DX vs FX (Nikon) EF vs EF-S (Canon)].
First two pictures, a FF lens (14 mm) on a FF camera(6D) and the same lens on on an APS-C camera(7DII). Taken from the same spot, height and center focus point on same spot. The second is the same angle of view I would get at 22.4 mm on the 6D. Canon APS-C bodies can use Canon FF lenses, but FF bodies cannot use EF-S lenses. Canon EF-S lenses can be modified to go on FF bodies, but should only be done by someone who knows what they are doing, some Canon EF-S lenses have a protruding rear element that would hit the mirror on a FF camera and damage both lens and camera.

Next series of shots are of an APS-C lens on the FF 6D, the first four are with lens hood and without, then the rest you can't see the hood at all, but still have vignetteing. I could use this lens on the 6D at 13 or 15 mm since I almost always allow some extra for cropping to fit output format ratio. This is a Tamron 10-24 APS-C lens, they only use the EF mount so it will go on the 6D.

Why did I use 10, 13, 15, 18, 20 and 24 mm? Those are the ones marked on the lens' zoom ring.

On my 7DII this lens would give the angle of view of a 16-38.4 mm lens. Canon crop factor is 1.6, Nikon crop factor is 1.5. (and for the nit pickers, I know both companies have made cameras with different crop factors, these are the normal/standard crop factors on DSLR bodies from the two companies.

14 mm FF lens on FF body
14 mm FF lens on FF body...

14 mm FF lens on APS-C body
14 mm FF lens on APS-C body...

10 mm with hood
10 mm with hood...

10 mm no hood
10 mm no hood...

13 mm with hood
13 mm with hood...

13 mm no hood
13 mm no hood...

15 mm hood does not show any more
15 mm hood does not show any more...

18 mm
18 mm...

20 mm
20 mm...

24 mm
24 mm...

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Dec 24, 2016 10:41:58   #
stevetassi
 
Nice image!

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Dec 24, 2016 11:09:08   #
In-lightened Loc: Kansas City
 
GoofyNewfie wrote:
Good.
I've never used the 17-55 on the D810, just played with it.
I'm angling to get a D500 at work.
Anything you don't like about it?


I just purchased the D500 to replace my D7100 for wildlife. My go to lens for the D7100 was the 17-55 for walk around. Sharp lens. Love it! I need to try it on my D500. One of the things I appreciate about the D500 is the ability to change ISO quickly. It's low light capacity is also handy. I have tried to get out to Heritage Park nearby to play with the tracking for birds...haven't spotted the eagle who comes by sometimes. I too have pictures I wouldn't otherwise have with the D7100...of gulls. Practice.

I also have the D810 and didn't think to try the 17-55 on it. It could work for me when I need a lower light lens than the 24-120 f4.

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Dec 24, 2016 11:24:13   #
GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City
 
In-lightened wrote:
I just purchased the D500 to replace my D7100 for wildlife. My go to lens for the D7100 was the 17-55 for walk around. Sharp lens. Love it! I need to try it on my D500. One of the things I appreciate about the D500 is the ability to change ISO quickly. It's low light capacity is also handy. I have tried to get out to Heritage Park nearby to play with the tracking for birds...haven't spotted the eagle who comes by sometimes. I too have pictures I wouldn't otherwise have with the D7100...of gulls. Practice.

I also have the D810 and didn't think to try the 17-55 on it. It could work for me when I need a lower light lens than the 24-120 f4.
I just purchased the D500 to replace my D7100 for ... (show quote)

Thanks for that. I love that 24-120. The 24-70 sits on the shelf most of the time now.

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Dec 24, 2016 12:55:29   #
amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
 
ddub wrote:
I recently got a Nikon D810. The problem I have is my 17-55 2.8 lens, when it is wide open I can see the lens hood in the view finder.

Is there a different lens hood that will still work with this combination of lens and camera?


DX lens on an FX camera is going to vignette heavily... and not only because of the hood. The lens itself is designed to make a smaller diameter image circle, since that's all a DX camera needs. That's what your are seeing. If you test the lens without the hood, you will almost certainly still see heavy vignetting. (How much will probably vary depending upon the focal length the zoom is set to.)

I believe your D810 has a "DX mode" where it only uses part of its image sensor (same size as DX camera sensor), especially to allow use of DX lenses on the FX camera. The only problem when doing this is that instead of acting as a 36MP camera, you'll be getting something more like 15MP. In other words, you essentially defeat the whole purpose of buying a $2400 FX camera by using a DX lens on it!

Sell the lens and get an FX lens.

Oh, wait, you don't need to... you've already got a 14-24mm FX lens.

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Dec 24, 2016 13:28:00   #
MtnMan Loc: ID
 
If you set the image area on DX and it should be OK over full zoom range.

It might also be OK on the two intemediate image areas...at least over part of the zoom range.

You don't usually need the hood indoors where you'd want the f2.8.

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Dec 24, 2016 14:23:15   #
Bill Munny Loc: Aurora, Colorado
 
Get into your "Photo Shooting" menu, go to the "Image Area", then "Auto DX Crop" turn on, then "Choose Image Area", then choose 1.2X. That will overcome most of the vignetting. Also turn the "Vignette Control" on to "H", located in the the "Photo Shooting" menu. That will get you as much help from the camera as possible. In your viewer, you should then see the 1.2X and 1.5X area outline limits, and see if the lens hood is outside the 1.2X outline. Good luck with this, it works for me on my crop lenses.

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