Martino Loc: Northwest Florida

Hi.

I have a secondary flash unit - an old Canon 430EX. Like an idiot I left a set of batteries in it for just too long and one of them leaked.

On turning it on, there was a buzz as the zoom tried to work and then, of course, nothing.

I've tried cleaning out the grit inside, but still it won't fire up.

Any ideas for recovery?

I don't mind trying to take it apart as 'nothing ventured, nothing gained'. Anyone had any success in the past?

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Find a ball point pen with eraser. Chuck it into a drill. Burnish the battery contacts until shiny... vacuum out the shavings.

jim quist Loc: Missouri

I used good old Coke a Cola to clean mine once. Thought it would ruin it, but it did the trick.

pounder35 Loc: "Southeast of Disorder"

Unless the corrosion is really bad and worked into the wiring there's no reason to take it apart. Try the above suggestion for cleaning. Ammonia on a Q-tip will work for mild corrosion. If you do disassemble it be careful of the main capacitor. It's probably mostly drained by now but a fully charged flash capacitor packs about 330 volts. It WILL get your attention. Trust me. I've been bit before.

mas24 Loc: Southern CA

Just remember, if all attempts fail to get it back in working order, due to the corrosion, you can always replace it with an inexpensive brand new Yongnuo Flash Unit, from B&H.

Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

NEVER use an eraser on any electrical contacts. They are all far too abrasive.

The suggestions to use Coke or ammonia as a solvent are good, as they will do a better job than soapy water. The real trick with either of those, or any solvent, is to finish with a really good dunk in Isopropyl alcohol sufficient to wash away all traces of the solvent. The alcohol will leave a residue, but it is harmless. The main thing is it is non-conductive and non-corrosive, so traces of it left behind won't lead to more corrosion.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

I did bring back to life a few items in my time. I used to make a paste out of baking soda & water and covered all the leaked-on parts and really let them sit/soak for quite a long time and then cleaned it all up. And most of the times it worked (got lucky I guess) no guaranty, but worth a try! I was going to say not to try to fire it up (that is the worst thing you can do), but its too late for that one!

BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA

As Apaflo states, never use an abrasive on contacts. Depending on the type of batteries, find a neutralizing substance, make a slurry and apply with a make or artist's brush. Allow the solvent time to work and rinse in alcohol. Repeat as necessary. Note that acid, alkaline and lithium batteries require different solvents. Coke may work, but may leaves sugary residue. Finally dry with canned air if you have it. And as previously mentioned, make sure that capacitor or discharged before handling the flash!

Martino Loc: Northwest Florida

Thank you everyone. A great many good suggestions.

I'll have a go and let you know the results!

Thanks again.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Several things to consider here. (Personally, I typically use alcohol or contact cleaner and not an eraser). If you use an eraser, It depends on what material the eraser is composed of. Some erasers are quite abrasive, while others, such as the very soft white erasers we used on ink on linen drawings was not abrasive at all, just absorptive. With an eraser,, the issues are abrasion and residue. If the contact is plated (typically gold), then the plating is likely thin, and removing some portion with any abrasive can be an issue. If it's not gold and subject to oxidation (gold typically is not), then abrading it will leave small scratches, which can re-oxidize, perhaps more quickly. Finally, some eraser compounds may leave a residue, although this could likely be removed with alcohol. Non plated or silver plated contacts are a different issue. When I was at IBM in the 60s and every machine had a plethora of relays (often wire relays), the IBM-approved method was to use a burnishing tool for cleaning - a narrow, metal strip impregnated with a fine abrasive - wish I still had one. Occasionally, I still use a mild abrasive cloth to clean badly oxidized non-plated or silver plated relay or switch contacts, but my preferred method, which I always use on gold plated contacts, is either alcohol or a contact cleaner specifically designed for the purpose.

Hammer Loc: London UK

I used vinegar , applying it with cotton wool ear buds. Made several attempts . At first the flash was still not working but a day or so later it did !

Good luck with the rescue.

CO

I've used this electrical contact cleaner. It evaporates quickly. The CRC QD is safe to use around plastics.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

I have used an old ink eraser, the kind that is white and really abrasive. Your issue is not just the contacts as the corrosion may have gone down into the flash. I just saw one on ebay from Roberts camera and they are asking $76.00 or best offer. I would call them and see what kind of deal and warranty they will give you, make sure the battery compartment is super clean.

JohnMc

I had this same thing happen to my SB-600 flash and to a Yashica 35mm camera as well. both units I was able to save by cleaning. I used WD-40 (which I hear you are not supposed to use) but there are some electronics cleaning solutions that will penetrate the corrosion and clean even what you cannot reach with a q-tip or brush. Both units returned to normal function and quite franckly, I was amazed the camera came back because it was old to begin with.

Phocus Loc: Lakeland, Fl

Good old lemon juice on a qtip has never failed me with this job.