vince39426 Loc: Mississippi

We live about 45 minutes from New Orleans. The City Park provides a lot of photo opportunities. I have gone there and have taken a lot of photographs. I find that I am lacking somewhat in the quality I have seen on this forum, so I am asking for some advice. I am attaching a few shots I took in the park. All of them were taken with shutter priority. Should I be using shutter priority for this kind of photo? I don't get my feelings hurt when I am asking for advice.
Vince

F/4.5, 1/40 sec, ISO 400

(Download)

F/4, 1/400 sec, ISO 100

(Download)

f/4, 1/400. ISO100

(Download)

tsilva Loc: Arizona

it doesn't matter what mode you are shooting in, you need better light

orrie smith Loc: Kansas

Not knowing how experienced you are, nor which camera you are using, so the following advice is based on Nikon terminology. I would suggest that you begin in Priority mode and shoot that way for a few weeks. Once you get used to P mode, change to Aperture mode. Unless you are shooting action, and shutter speed is absolutely necessary, in my opinion, you should never rely on shutter priority. you will consistently end up with over or under exposed photos. Most experienced amatuers rely on Aperture mode until they have the experience and knowledge to move to manual mode. Do not hurry, it will come to you soon enough. the important thing is to get the best photo you can, and learn along the way.

Coop1947

You picked three difficult subjects. The first picture with the side walk would be more interesting if you let the shadows go darker for more contrast to the brighter sun light areas. In your second picture you should have played up the reflection of the trees in the water. And the last is under exposed. Try fixing your meter to spot metering. Using a higher f stop like f18 for example gives better depth of field. And helps bring out the contrasts. If you meter for an average you get an average look. meter shadow detail and you blow out the highlights same with metering for highlights it darkens shadows. Be sure to shoot for what attracts you to the scene and you learn by experimenting. Try different combinations.

vince39426 Loc: Mississippi

I am not that experienced. I am using a canon xsi which I got for practically nothing a few months ago. This is my first experience in digital photography so I didn't want to spend a lot until I got a feel for what I am doing.

Thanks for the advice on using aperture mode. I think I will visit the same spots and shoot them in aperture mode.

Coop1947

You picked three difficult subjects. The first picture with the side walk would be more interesting if you let the shadows go darker for more contrast to the brighter sun light areas. In your second picture you should have played up the reflection of the trees in the water. And the last is over exposed. Try fixing your meter to spot metering. Using a higher f stop like f18 for example gives better depth of field. And helps bring out the contrasts. If you meter for an average you get an average look. meter shadow detail and you blow out the highlights same with metering for highlights it darkens shadows. Be sure to shoot for what attracts you to the scene and you learn by experimenting. Try different combinations. I shoot manul adjusting all the variables to get the effect I want. Try different combinations to see what they give you. See what leaving the f stop and shutter speed the same and just change film speed does. 200, 400, 800, 1200 and even higher for example experiment.

G_Manos Loc: Bala Cynwyd, PA

Vince - Also, if you're shooting Auto ISO, check your max ISO setting. If it's too low and ambient light is low as well your images will come out a bit flat and underexposed. Keep shooting, your sense of composition is good.

-George-

MtnMan Loc: ID

No.

Use aperture priority and at least f16. Also use low ISO e.g. 100. If the required shutter speed then falls below 1/ 2*lens mm use a tripod.

Use image stabilization if no tripod.

I recommend reading Bryan Peterson's books, starting with the latest edition of Unerstanding Exposure.

You might also profit from The Great Courses Introduction to Photography. Be sure to get it on one of their many sale offerings.

MtnMan Loc: ID

On Nikons P stands for Program, not Priority.

It allows you to adjust over a range of fstop and shutter speed with the thumbwheel. In this case he wants high fstop.

Not sure if Canon has same feature or the terminology.

letmedance Loc: Walnut, Ca.

Check your picture quality settings, it seems the photos you submitted are 72 Pixel per Inch. Set the camera for the highest quality usually Fine or Extra Fine, use a lower ISO, and a tripod.

jimmya Loc: Phoenix

It appears you have plenty of light but I'd say no, you don't need shutter P. Program should work very well. You didn't mention what camera you're using but from looking at your shots they all appear out of focus or blurry. Focus the lens, blur camera movement. If these are hand held then I'd say get off of the shutter and let the camera decide. If you use the shutter only for specific shots to stop motion, in the 1/500 to 1/1000 range then fun but for everything else you'd be better letting the camera decide.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Vince -

You've asked an excellent question and added some attachments that help demonstrate your issues. Composition and Light are issues, but from a technical standpoint, let me add the following:

1. Your XSi will produce wonderful pictures, but this is an older model and has a number of limitations of an entry-level DSLR from 2008. These "limitations" are that many automatic capabilities and / or settings found in newer cameras do not exist on this model.

2. You cannot set limits on the AUTO ISO range on this camera - an example limitation of the XSi / EOS 450D. In the context of your shutter vs aperture priority question, I suggest too that you manually select your ISO rather than letting the camera run on auto. Use 100 / 200 / 400 just as you would select film speed for a given situation. ISO-800 is grainy on this model, but still very usable. ISO-1600 really isn't going to be acceptable.

3. Regarding background on the camera, be sure you've downloaded a copy of the PDF manual. Old Canon manuals can be found here: http://www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/support/camera-user-manual Several of the points listed below will require that you consult the manual to find the menu section within the camera to review and / or update the setting.

4. Looking at the first picture from a technical aspect, the low(er) light is the issue. This image would look better if shot at f/8. But, already you're at 1/40 shutter @ 80mm @ ISO-400. The smaller aperture will look better for your lens performance as well as giving sharper results across the frame and through a greater depth of field. Given this camera and lens combo, you'll need a tripod in this shooting light.

5. Another idea assuming you're shooting JPEGs from this camera, use the "Landscape" picture style when shooting a landscape such as the first example. Use the White Balance settings as well. Auto (AWB) might be best for this image in the mixed shade and daylight. The daylight setting might work as well.

6. Again assuming JPEGs, assure that you're shooting in the highest quality producing the largest files capturing the most detail the camera's sensor can capture.

7. Use the largest cards the camera can support. If I remember correctly, Canon Rebel's circa 2008 couldn't use a CF card larger than 8GB. The high quality image setting will eat up these smaller cards relatively fast, even more so if shooting in RAW. I have some old 4GB and 8GB cards from a long ago sold XTi where the cards are just gathering dust. If you need some, just send me a note and I'll send them to you.

Back to your questions about pictures that look like others here and across the internet. Those images, I can promise you, are heavily edited aka post processed. At the minimal you can visit the Canon website and download the Digital Photo Professional 3.15, the software that works with you camera's RAW files and JPEGs. The software is free. There's other free software across the internet for basic and mildly advanced editing such as working on the saturation, noise reduction and contrast. The USA Canon website has only an "updater" file that assumes you have the original software from the CD that came with the Camera. If you don't have the CD, you can get an copy of the software from the disk from Canada and other Canon website locations. You'll be looking for "EOS Digital Solution Disk Software 29.1A for Windows" or similar for Macintosh.

Another difference in other images is they're using higher quality lenses. Your 75-300 is a very basic zoom lens. Your light, shutter priority and ISO decisions are forcing the aperture wide open. Changing to Aperture priority or Manual and using this lens in situations where f/8 to f/11 can be used will produce better results from this lens model. As mentioned by others, where handholding without a tripod, shoot in situations and use camera settings with a shutterspeed of 1/200 to 1/500 (or faster) depending on the focal length set for your zoom lens.

vince39426 Loc: Mississippi

Wow, I certainly got what I asked for. Thanks to all you who responded. I am glad I found this site so I can improve my skills. I was into this hobby many years ago, but life got in the way of devoting a lot of time. Now at age 73, I can spend more time trying to get better. All of you are certainly willing to help. Thanks

JCam Loc: MD Eastern Shore

With my Canon 60D I almost always use shutter priority and with a speed probably higher than most would select; it helps old hands that are not as steady as they were 30 years ago. However for these shots, I think I'd select a shutter speed of perhaps 1/150 sec. and Auto ISO but with a top end of +/- 600 to allow the camera more range for the f-stop.

EdJ0307 Loc: out west someplace

P means the same thing on Canons. And Canon has pretty much the same features and terminology. Nikon doesn't have a monopoly on them.