Gpa-15 Loc: Tinton Falls, NJ

Re: Another 'Puzzlement' in my 'Making Good Better' QUEST
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Gpa's CONSTANT-QUEST:
"Accurately-Capturing {re: Color & Exposure & Resolution} 'Building-Interiors' in Natural 'noon-day' Light":
--- Please... Can anyone 'Match' (with any 'current' or 'announced' DSLR or Mirrorless or Smartphone) the 'Automated-image' (i.e. with no PP required), which was produced by my old Olympus OM 4Ti {which 'measures' light using an 'OTF' [Off-The-Film] technology} to take low light STILLS {...of 8-min and above in duration}; using ASA 64 or 100 rated Film sensitivity/resolution.
--- --- I know there's 'bulb' ...but HOW does the photog KNOW {'Precisely-to-the-Second'} WHEN to close the shutter.? ...OR, how does he accurately compensate for 'Shadowy' and/or 'Bright' areas within his frame.?.?.? --- Remember, NO PP .!.!.!
THANKS my friends for your Consideration and Comments in this QUEST.

jcboy3

Olympus OMD in live composite mode, with highligh/shadows enabled, HDMI output to a 10" monitor. WYSIWYG.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

From all of what you wrote here, I guess your question is determining when to close the shutter on a long exposure, generally a B setting. I use my watch. And here is why. If one is doing long exposures, minutes as you pointed out. Using a watch to determine when to close the shutter is sufficient, as the percentage of error is going to be small to the point of being imperceptible.
--Bob

Gpa-15 Loc: Tinton Falls, NJ

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Hi 'jcboy3'... Thanks for your Quick-Reply.! --- PLEASE give this old mind some TIME to consider and reply.

anotherview Loc: California

Good morning. You set yourself a very high, if not impossible, standard for exposure in the camera: "Remember, NO PP .!.!.!"

I've read the work of only one photographer, a studio photographer, who can set exactly correct exposure and true color rendition in the camera, and in the JPEG file format. He has enough control (under studio conditions) and technical know-how to accomplish this feat.

Upshot: Virtually all photographs require some development after capture, to bring out their potential, if not to match the eye and the visualization of the photographer.

It seems more practical (and achievable) to do one's best to try for a good exposure, suitable framing, and effective composition of an interesting subject at the moment of capture. Then later, in development, one can adjust the photograph for the best results.

Just my opinion.

Good luck.

Gpa-15 Loc: Tinton Falls, NJ

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Hi 'Bob'... Thanks for your fast reply and answer. So... Are you watching the 'evolvement' of the image on a screen? ...how do you know the SUBJECT has been 'Properly' (i.e. Color & Exposure & Resolution) exposed to Light.?

Gpa-15 Loc: Tinton Falls, NJ

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Hi 'anotherview'... MANY Thanks for your GREAT response; it's why (a while back), I 'uninformedly' asked if there was a way to afix a digital-back on my '4Ti'.😳(Comment.?) ...AND, which 'modern' camera would you choose (i.e. "...to come close").??
Thanks for the Extra effort.!

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

No. I'm not aware of any way to watch the image 'evolvement' on a screen. What I do know is that I trust my meter, have tested and re-tested my equipment, and trust what the meter says. After that it's simply take the meter reading, open the lens, watch my watch, or stop watch, and close the shutter when the amount of time has elapsed.

Example, http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-266066-1.html -- 15 second exposure, f/22, X1 filter.
--Bob

jcboy3

That is exactly what Olympus "live composite" mode does.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Interesting. I'll have to search for that and see how that works.

Addendum: I just watched a promotional video of live composite mode. Interesting to say the least.
--Bob

Gpa-15 Loc: Tinton Falls, NJ

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Hi 'rmalarz'... I'm here going to PROVE my 'slowness' -- "Since you didn't SAY you were using a 'light-meter' I questioned your response; since I didn't assume you had a Meter (i.e. As WELL as a Watch); was THAT dumb, or What.?.?.?
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BTW... I examined your pic at 2x and
IT is GREAT.!.!

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Since the original post concerned when to close the shutter, I assumed the metering was already accomplished and the time was indicated. Thus, the answer was pointed at the determination of the end of the time period needed for exposure.

Now to address the meter, along with the builtin meters of my digital cameras, I also use a Sekonic L758dr, which was used to meter the example in the link I provided. Dumb or what? Hardly, I was just addressing the timing, assuming you had, as I do, determined the time through use of some meter.

Thanks for the compliment. You should see the 16x20 print of that image.
--Bob

anotherview Loc: California

Glad I could help.

In addition, this advice from Scott Kelby I follow: Fix the photograph in Adobe Camera Raw, and finish the photograph in Photoshop.

SK is a master instructor in matters relating to photography and photoshop. His teachings have helped me to improve my post-processing skills.

I have another suggestion you might try for achieving close to true color in camera for outdoor shots during daylight.

Use the Automatic Exposure Lock function in your camera.

This Web-site explains the concept:

http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/how-to-use-auto-exposure-lock-on-a-dslr-camera/

This one comes from Canon -- somewhat talky but it has good points:

http://www.learn.usa.canon.com/resources/articles/2011/autoexposure_ae_lock_article.shtml

In short, though, (1) point the camera at open sky; (2) press the AEL button; it has an asterisk symbol (*) identifying it; (3) re-compose your shot; and (4) press the shutter button.

Note that in the viewfinder, you will see the asterisk symbol (*) in the lower-left corner (on a Canon camera). This setting lasts about 20 seconds, during which you must press the shutter button to use the exposure set for the sky.

I find it useful to compose the shot first and keep composition in mind. Then I use the AEL function to set exposure for the open sky. I then re-compose the shot, and press the shutter button.

Of course, if the AEL setting times out, then you just have to repeat Steps 1 through 4 as above.

I have found that this technique very nicely automatically exposes the sky and renders highly accurate sky coloration.

During development later if I can keep the sky looking close to the capture of it, then the other colors look good, too.

Good luck.

Gpa-15 Loc: Tinton Falls, NJ

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Hi 'anotherview'... WOW Guy, now THAT is a Tremendously-Informative REPLY. Thanks SO Much for Sharing.

Gpa-15 Loc: Tinton Falls, NJ

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Hi 'Bob'... re: 'live composite mode'; ...me TOO, Bob.