G_Manos Loc: Bala Cynwyd, PA

Cyclespeed: This thread is an example of why UHH is such a terrific site. More good advice here on this topic than you can shake a stick at. I have only one though to add: If you are hoping to never take a bad shot again - underexposed, overexposed, blurred, whatever - forget it. It doesn't matter which pre-shot procedure you use, it's going to happen. Worse, dollars to donuts it will happen on a shot that really counts! This is because there will be times when you do not have the time to check the list between shots.

Practice a lot with some of the procedures suggested in this thread, and then put them aside and go out and shoot. To begin, I'd say, rely on a system that approximates zone shooting. Take a couple sample shots, set the camera at its sweet spot for those shots, and fire away. Then go home and check each shot. This will tell you where you need to focus attention next when shooting. Eventually you will greatly reduce, if not eliminate, reliance on the check list, paying attention mostly on where you know you need to.

Just my two cents . . .

Photocraig

Because, a photograph is a story. Whether is is well told or poorly expressed has more to do with its success than exposure, focus and even the light, although, poor technical photos are rarely viewed long enough to even search for a subject (AKA discarded or disregarded).And the broken record drummed into my head is:
What is the subject I want my viewer to see?
How will I frame the photo to emphasize the subject and eliminate distractions from THE SUBJECT.
How will I use focus to emphasize the subject in the say I want the viewer to see it?
How will I use exposure options to do the same?
How many variations on this theme can I perform to exhaust all the possibilities? Closer, further away, vertical, horizontal, high, mid and low angle left and right diagonal angle. Color, Monochrome, panoramic, HDR?

When the RAW frame shows up in PP, repeat the above and dump most of the captures that fail to best portray YOUR vision of the SUBJECT! HINT: Rarely is a "Scene" the subject. Even the "wonders" like the Grand Canyon, Utah Arches, Niagara Falls, etc. become wallpaper unless there is a specific feature that is the obvious and emphasized SUBJECT.

Portraits aren't just the person, but what ABOUT the person do you want to viewer to see.

BudsOwl Loc: Upstate NY and New England

Is your photography a pleasure or a chore. I consider mine a pleasure, so the only thing I do is a mental check list when I go out: Which camera and lenses, which carrying strap, flash, which camera bag?; extra battery; extra sd card; lens cloth and/or lens pen; remote trigger. Most of the stuff I have in a go kit, so decisions don't take long. When I start forgetting stuff, it will be time for me to print out a check list. So have fun and don't obsess about every detail.
Bud

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Scene/situation list (goals)
Site and situations survey (if possible)
Equipment choice, charge batteries, check and pack gear
Lighting evaluation (add light, modify light if possible; set ISO, set mode*, meter, custom white balance)
Set file save mode (raw for landscapes, weddings, events with rapidly changing lighting conditions, high end work; JPEG for fixed lighting, copy work, low end portraits, anything where I can preset menus to get exactly what I want)
*Mode 'M' for fixed lighting, 'Tv' for action, 'Av' for depth of field control, 'iA' (intelligent Auto) for rapidly changing lighting conditions
(Pose), compose, expose
Download and backup images
Cull edit
Adjust raw files
Retouch, etc. and crop/size
Sharpen
Export, print, and/or post to web or burn disc

BudsOwl Loc: Upstate NY and New England

As usual you've presented the OP with great advice. So logical!

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Interesting point. I just got one of my bodies back from Nikon after it's annual (more or less) CLA - (clean lube adjust). They reset the menu settings back to factory default, which I had forgotten about.

I use custom settings for different scenarios - wildlife and action, event shooting with and without external flash, and landscape. Each has specific choices for autofocus, metering, and auto ISO. Each scenario is saved as a custom menu bank. There are settings that remain constant regardless of what I am shooting - 14 bit raw lossless compressed, AF/C release mode, AF Activation, highlight warning display, custom button assignment, to mention a few.

So yesterday I set out on a hike with the newly serviced body in my backpack. When I took the first picture I reviewed it quickly and boy, for a second I thought my camera was broken. Then I remembered that Nikon resets the menus so I had to spend about 10 minutes to get everything in line for the rest of the day - I was shooting landscapes.

A workflow is something I haven't given much thought to, but it certainly would have saved me some time yesterday.

So in response - here's what I should probably do before a shoot.

"Pre-flight"

1. Make sure batteries are charged, cards are formatted.
2. Check camera settings - select correct menu bank.
3. Select lens(es) that you are likely to use. The point of this is to have the ones you need. I often take more than I need, but end up not taking one that one lens would be "perfect."
4. Make sure accessories are in the bag you will be using - camera straps, color checker passport, filters, etc.

When getting ready to take a picture

For landscapes for example, I will get to my shooting location and generally spend a few minutes experiencing the area with all of my senses. Often there are multiple picture ops, but there is almost always "the one" that captures your imagination, or speaks to your artistic sensibilities. Since I always shoot manual for landscape, I first decide if I want deep or shallow depth of field. Then I make sure that my ISO is at the lowest setting, and I adjust the shutter speed to the conditions. Yesterday was very windy and I was using a 24-70 lens for the most part, so I had to use a relatively higher shutter speed than I normally would on a calm day. Once I had the shutter speed and aperture set to what I wanted, I then dialed in the ISO necessary to ensure correct exposure. I looked for the brightest element in the image, in this case clouds or bright reflections of light colored rocks, and set my exposure based on the in-camera's reading of the highlight - and adding 1.3 stops to the reading. This ensures no blown highlights. I then compose the image, take a shot, check the image in the preview screen for histogram and composition, then walk around a bit to get a different perspective, and repeat, until I have fully exploited the scene to my liking, then I move on to the next.

My process is different for commercial photography, sports, wildlife, portraiture (which is similar to commercial), macro, etc.

When I am done, all images are uploaded to my computer, card is reformatted once the back up is done. Batteries are charged. Gear is put away in it's location, ready for another shoot.

Meives Loc: FORT LAUDERDALE

HDR will help solve this problem. It brightens the dark and darkens the bright to make it more like what the eye sees. Other option is to do a 3 or 5 shot using different exposures and checking the results. (Bracketing) I would like to see samples. If posting click on "store original" so the camera settings can be checked. David

Leitz Loc: Solms

I wouldn't expect a competent photographer to need a flow chart to know to adjust exposure and focus.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

It helps newbies to see the high level view of an unfamiliar process.

anotherview Loc: California

Yes: "If just go out camera in hand, I make certain I have a fresh battery, that the sensor and lens is clean and that I have a clear SDHC card. I check white balance and other settings and off I go. I photograph anything I find of interest, attempting to capture the image I "saw", that triggered the urge to photograph. I "chimp" shamelessly and adjust as needed. Rarely takes more than three exposures, often get it right off the bat. If I am out with the bag, I may add a filter or change lenses or cameras."
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Yes: " No one is paying me, I get my reward in the satisfaction of a high percentage of worthwhile and competent images achieved." Seems like a lot of complexity, at least for a hobbyist. If just go out camera in hand, I make certain I have a fresh battery, that the sensor and lens is clean and that I have a clear SDHC card. I check white balance and other settings and off I go. I photograph anything I find of interest, attempting to capture the image I "saw", that triggered the urge to photograph. I "chimp" shamelessly and adjust as needed. Rarely takes more than three exposures, often get it right off the bat. . . . No one is paying me, I get my reward in the satisfaction of a high percentage of worthwhile and competent images achieved."

You seem like me -- doing photography to fulfill yourself. I find this way more satisfying because I do photography to please myself minus an economic bias.

The OP, however, seeks guidance. I suggest studying composition and the exposure triangle, along with the importance of subject, as a path to better photographs. The workflow foundation begins therewith.

Leitz Loc: Solms

No disagreement there. The OP did say "competent photographer," though, and I don't think one is competent until knowing how to achieve the exposure and focus appropriate to how they wish to portray a scene becomes second nature. Not sure that would be in a competent photographer's flow chart. IMO!

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

It is really hard to dissect photography into a flow chart when there are so many concurrent processes. The actual process of "doing it" is very different from "learning it".

Exposure and focus are mostly automated these days. It helps tremendously to understand the theory, of course, so you know what the systems are doing, why they work, and why they don't work when they don't. But with intelligent Auto mode on some of the newer cameras, quite often you can concentrate on composition, line, form, color, contrast, light, shadow, and other nuances, and let the camera capture the scene.

Creative control comes later in the learning process. I always told my students, "Concentrate on SEEING first. Then concentrate on learning the possibilities for rendering the scene." You can learn to SEE with a smart phone, transfer that to an adjustable camera, and begin controlling variables as you have motivation, interest, and time.

Learning to "write with light" is similar to writing with a pen or word processor. You never stop learning how.

anotherview Loc: California

Helpful observations and guidance.

I'd add that effective composition and careful framing still remain critical to achievement of a worthy photograph.

cyclespeed Loc: Calgary, Alberta Canada

A very big thank you for all of you who took the time to reflect on my request, compose your response and post it. My big learnings from them include pre shooting preparation, including bringing lenses I might not think I will need. If making a static image i.e. not time sensitive take my time to use all my senses to gather the scene. Take the shots with a goal in mind and view the results immediately. Believe it or not I will make a list to follow with the hope I will get a chance to pursue this great hobby so much the list will become "built in."
I appreciate you insights.