Problem with Polarizing Filter...
gunwolf
Loc: Currently - Central MA
I'd like to take this opportunity to thank everyone for their input and advice on not only this subject but throughout this forum.
It's a priceless resource for information and knowledge it would take one person a lifetime to accumulate.
Thanks again,
-Wayne
As I understand it, there is no photographic difference between a linear and a circular polariser. A LP stops most autofocus systems from working as they rely on detecting the light's phase shift between two different points of the lens which is effectively cancelled out by the LP. A CP adds a quarter-wave plate behind the polarising element which rotates the light in a spiral pattern. To the autofocus system, it now looks just like the light entering an unfiltered lens where the light is vibrating in all different planes.
You can still use a LP but you'll have to focus old skool.
=:~)
first time I ever heard of not using a uv filter as a lens protector. And l'm going back 40 years
first time I ever heard of not using a uv filter as a lens protector. And l'm going back 40 years
lexstgo wrote:
I am going to agree with MT on this one. You are experiencing a problem that most new photographer experience: you get what you paid for. This really applies to filters.
Filters are made with 2 materials, plastic and glass. The Vivatar filters (depending on which line and where they were manufactured) are mostly plastic with a film that (in my opinion)"filter light in a direction" to minimize/prevent unwanted reflections. It is better to purchase glass filters.
Glass filters are better constructed and I have yet to get my 5 year Hoya CPL to give me any problems with the auto focusing of any of my cameras. A good glass filter can cost approximately $81.00 - $280.00 for the professional grade quality.
I hope it helps.
I am going to agree with MT on this one. You are e... (
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Highest rated Hoya HD CPL in 52mm @ Adorama is 47.99.
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