AnthonyBiss Loc: Toronto, Ontario

My friend, please read the attached link.
Also, turn off your ADL and use SPOT metering mode, thats why its there.

https://www.engadget.com/2012/03/23/engadget-primed-camera-metering-explained/

Gdelvecc Loc: Dallas, TX

After doing a factory reset and turning off Auto ISO, the results are outstanding. Exposure was spot on. Just minimal Lightroom work do darken sky and bring up Detail if the Back shadow areas. Thanks to everyone.. It's nice to know so many nice people... Be careful as dialed in exposure compensation doesn't always clear when turning off the camera.

(Download)

mborn Loc: Massachusetts

Yes you must reset EC when you are finished

BebuLamar

Glad the OP got it fixed. The original image whether it's good or bad depending on the taste of the photographer but sure is underexposed if shot with a normally calibrated D7200 and center weighted mode.

BboH Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD

Also make sure your LCD is properly calibrated.

Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

Now repeat with Auto ISO enabled. Nothing will change.

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

True, at times a bright sky could be clipping without harm to the whole photograph, especially a sky without clouds. True, at times there are non important bright areas that clip the histogram but it requires experience on the part of the photographer to recognize these possibilities.
I always make sure I meter from an important bright area and make sure I have no clipping of those areas when I look at the histogram.

DaveHam Loc: Reading UK

I tend to be a little distrustful of the histogram in camera when it shows minor clipping; it is after all based on an in camera jpg which has been processed by the camera. Frequently images that show blown in camera are well within the histogram when viewed in PS. Perhaps this is a part of the conservative nature of the set up Nikon applies, and I have seen the same when using a canon.

The right answer is to know your camera and understand how it behaves between camera and RAW data.

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

"The right answer is to know your camera and understand how it behaves between camera and RAW data."
Dave H.

You will not find many experienced photographers that will argue with that. In my humble opinion a histogram is a very valuable aid to exposure but it is not infallible. Simply said, an experienced photographer knows how to interpret the histogram. I have seen perfectly good histograms with underexposure of the middle tonalities but never a good exposure with persistent clipping of the bright or shadow areas. I agree that many files with slight clipping of the bright areas mean nothing and by the same token clipping of the shadow areas most of the time are very acceptable, especially for non important dark areas.
I guess we could be talking about this till the final trial.

Bill_de Loc: US

From Nikon owner's manual:

"Camera histograms are intended as a guide only and may differ from those displayed in imaging applications."

--

Grant Good Loc: Gold Coast AUSTRALIA

Shoot only in the Manual mode, take a light reading set on Matrix Metering or Centre-Weighted metering NOT Spot Metering if you're shooting landscapes or pic's like the one you've posted, and be mindful of where the light reading area is pointed at. The dark areas or the bright sky, will make all the difference in exposure. That's why manual mode is best, the exposure won't change if the reading area moves onto a darker or brighter area like it would if you shoot on aperture or shutter speed priority or in any Auto modes. Take a pic, have a look, then adjust up or down if you have to, then shoot away. You can also try bracketing as well, only takes a few seconds to change the aperture or shutter speed up or down and take a second and third shot, it's not costing anything and you're only after one hero pic of each set up. In the mean time, edit the darker pic's and brighten them up.

AnthonyBiss Loc: Toronto, Ontario

Excellent advice, however try the HDR approach/ adjust your EV metering

AnthonyBiss Loc: Toronto, Ontario

Also, understand your tonal system

Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC

Much wisdom latent within this thread... Thank you Bill_de for showcasing IrfanView... I'm looking into this utility now...

Food for thought... back in the day doing PC Help Line support we had an SOP when the queue became unmanageable...
The classic "Cold Reboot" of the operating system was our go to solution... no other counter measure came close in instant resolve.
For the Nikon users the two button reset is similar... And Nikon in it's infinite wisdom has even colour coded two green dots on exterior controls...

That said, the insidious b5 Fine-tune Optimal Exposure in the Custom Settings Menu is possibly one of the most dangerous moves a naive user can make... This feature is NOT changed by the two button reset... and it does not show up in the view finder, nor Info screen... Please rethink ever using this or suggest it to a newbie... Instead conventional wisdom predicates encouraging the use of Exposure Compensation using the Exposure Compensation button adjacent the shutter release...

For all the emerging talent, please invest the time to explore, understand and master all the features Nikon provides in your capture device... Rest assured those who work at the commercial level have and for extremely compelling reasons...

Again many thanks for those who have shared their knowledge there...
Aggregate synergy is nearly always greater than even the most gifted amongst us...