SX2002 Loc: Adelaide, South Australia

This has got me beat...why is it that despite being directly in front of and square to the background I always get this awful shadow on the right side..
I'm using a Nikon SB700 Speedlight on a D7100...I've even tried standing further to the right of the subject in an attempt to move the shadow to the rear or other side but it always appears on the right...
Please don't mention studio lighting as quite often I'm asked to take shots where a studio set up is impossible, as in this case...I've tried moving the subject further away from the background and even moving the subject closer to the background but still the same result...these two shots were taken with the subjects right up against the curtain..
Cheers,
Ron.

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A.J.R. Loc: Devon, UK

With the flash so close to the camera you will always get the type of shadows you have illustrated. Moving the camera at different angles to the subject will make no difference as the flash will still be the same distance away from the lens. A way of making the shadows less intrusive is to diffuse the light. Bouncing it from something like the Rogue Diffuser Panel, or directing it through a diffuser such as the Gary Fong Light Sphere would help. You could even make a diffuser, but don't forget the larger the diffuser the softer (and most times), the more pleasing the light.

DOOK Loc: Maclean, Australia

Nice portraits all the same, Ron. I've had little experience with portraits or speedlights, but I would imagine that some sort of a diffuser would soften the light & hence lessen/soften the shadows. Earl.

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

Moving them further away from background so the flash falls off before hitting background, you may need a second light or reflector to light BG for separation if you feel you need it...looks like your using a flash bracket?

kubota king Loc: NW , Pa.

I bought the Gary Fong Lightsphere 2 yrs ago for the very same reason you are posting about . It attaches to your speed light very easily . I watched a video where Gary demonstrated the use of different diffusers styles and makes and you could see that this one did the best job . Like with all new equipment , you will have to learn what settings in your camera and flash power strength work best for different backgrds and lighting .I am very happy with mine .I don't remember what I paid for it , but worth it to me .Hope this helps you some , Tommy

SX2002 Loc: Adelaide, South Australia

No, straight off the hot shoe, if I was using a side bracket I could understand it...As I said in my original post, I have moved the subject further away from the background but the same thing happens...space is an issue in most cases and you cannot move the subject every time.

SX2002 Loc: Adelaide, South Australia

Thanks Tommy, I did have the diffuser on, the one that came with the speedlight...I'll investigate what you mention though...it still puzzles me though why the shadow is one sided..? The speedlight is central with the lens...

A.J.R. Loc: Devon, UK

Even if the flash is just a fraction of an inch away from the lens it will create a shadow. The flash light would have to come out of the centre of the lens to negate this, obviously an impossibility. A ring light however would show a shadowless backround but producing a light that gives little in the way of modelling. As said above the largest diffuser that is practical would help, and the lighting could be more interesting if the flash was attached to a bracket, rather than the hotshoe.

onDsnap is correct if you move far enough away from the background the shadows will diminish and eventually disappear completely

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

I could spend 1/2 day telling you to try different things, cant' you move the subject to another area where you have more room, or outside to open shade with fill flash. Unless you are you hell bent in using this background?

Here is a wild though, not knowing your actual flash and if it's even possible and not knowing how every flash is made. Is it possible your flash has two vertical flash tubes and the right one is faulty, not firing? I don't even know if anyone makes flashes with multiple tubes. The fact the reflections/highlights in his glasses are to the left, and catch lights in his eyes are centered, makes me think flash left or right side of flash not firing. Also the highlight on her necklace is to the left.
As far as moving away from wall, you might want to take a look at this link about flash fall off (inverse-square-law). http://photography.tutsplus.com/articles/rules-for-perfect-lighting-understanding-the-inverse-square-law--photo-3483

Another alternative if you have and know PS, it to remove the shadows in Post.

SX2002 Loc: Adelaide, South Australia

[quote=OnDSnap]I could spend 1/2 day telling you to try different things, cant' you move the subject to another area where you have more room, or outside to open shade with fill flash. Unless you are you hell bent in using this background?

Here is a wild though, not knowing your actual flash and if it's even possible and not knowing how every flash is made. Is it possible your flash has two vertical flash tubes and the right one is faulty, not firing? I don't even know if anyone makes flashes with multiple tubes. The fact the reflections/highlights in his glasses are to the left, and catch lights in his eyes are centered, makes me think flash left or right side of flash not firing. Also the highlight on her necklace is to the left.
As far as moving away from wall, you might want to take a look at this link about flash fall off (inverse-square-law). http://photography.tutsplus.com/articles/rules-for-perfect-lighting-understanding-the-inverse-square-law--photo-3483

Another alternative if you have and know PS, it to remove the shadows in Post.[/q

In this case, a once off, there was no way I could move the subjects any further from the curtain...! I have already said I have tried moving other subjects further away but still the shadow. If you only have a 10' wide room, there is a limit to how far you can move your subjects. The SB-700 has only one globe/tube which is mounted horizontally. I did clone out the shadows in the final edits but that does not solve the problem. At times I have to take pics of several people and having to PP all the shadows out is too time consuming and at times, difficult to do and still end up with a decent pic. The flash is central to the lens and not off to one side so any shadow should be directly behind, not off to one side...

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

[quote=SX2002][quote=OnDSnap]I could spend 1/2 day telling you to try different things, cant' you move the subject to another area where you have more room, or outside to open shade with fill flash. Unless you are you hell bent in using this background?

Here is a wild though, not knowing your actual flash and if it's even possible and not knowing how every flash is made. Is it possible your flash has two vertical flash tubes and the right one is faulty, not firing? I don't even know if anyone makes flashes with multiple tubes. The fact the reflections/highlights in his glasses are to the left, and catch lights in his eyes are centered, makes me think flash left or right side of flash not firing. Also the highlight on her necklace is to the left.
As far as moving away from wall, you might want to take a look at this link about flash fall off (inverse-square-law). http://photography.tutsplus.com/articles/rules-for-perfect-lighting-understanding-the-inverse-square-law--photo-3483

Another alternative if you have and know PS, it to remove the shadows in Post.[/q

In this case, a once off, there was no way I could move the subjects any further from the curtain...! I have already said I have tried moving other subjects further away but still the shadow. If you only have a 10' wide room, there is a limit to how far you can move your subjects. The SB-700 has only one globe/tube which is mounted horizontally. I did clone out the shadows in the final edits but that does not solve the problem. At times I have to take pics of several people and having to PP all the shadows out is too time consuming and at times, difficult to do and still end up with a decent pic. The flash is central to the lens and not off to one side so any shadow should be directly behind, not off to one side...[/quote]

I understand space limitations, and 10' is kind of tight, and I'm not questioning your technique, or the way your going about it, I'm just throwing out suggestions, not criticizing.
I know having to re-touch photos takes time. I use SB-910's of course have a shadow when subject is close to background but the shadow is centered when I mount the flash on camera, (which I never do but just did to try and simulate what your getting), even tried blacking out 1/2 the flash but still there is sufficient light/spread to get an equal shadow,(in a 10' space with subject about 16" from wall) is there perhaps something right of camera like a dark wall absorbing some of the bouncing light? Pretty sure you have light bouncing off walls and ceiling in such a small space. Just trying to eliminate the obvious. Back to the flash head, again without getting into manufacturing of flash tubes, it could still be a faulty flash tube, zoom head maybe not zooming equally, try taking a picture with the camera upside down and see if the shadow is on the left side. If not it's probably not the flash, or the position of the flash and we move on. The only way I could mimic your photo (with one flash) was to remove the flash from camera and hold it at about 4-6" to the left and about 2" above the top of the camera.

A.J.R. Loc: Devon, UK

These results are typical of using a flash on a hot shoe (or close to the camera). There is nothing wrong with the flash gun. you are right however that the colour/tone of the room walls could have a bearing on how dark the shadows are. Inverse square law would have little effect on the photographs shown. (It states that if you double the distance of the light to subject you have to give four times the exposure to obtain the same result, exposure wise), the subjects in the photographs are too close to the background for this law to make much difference. As I said earlier, the only way to make a more pleasing image is to soften the light. This could be done as I described above or also be done by bouncing it from the wall behind the camera or even the ceiling. A few test shots to make sure the exposure is OK would be a good idea. I would also suggest that the subject is not quite as close to the background. Do try some of what I have suggested Ron and I guarantee your results will be more pleasing, and without that dark sharp shadow in the photographs you have shown us.

infocus Loc: Australia

Try to get the subject to stand further away from the wall Ron, that often helps, if there is room to do that of course.

birdpix Loc: South East Pennsylvania

Given that these shots are in portrait mode, did you shoot in portrait orientation with the camera? That would explain the location of the shadow since the flash would be offset to the left of your lens. Getting the flash off the camera and shooting wirelessly or wired and holding the flash above and to the side with the subject farther away from the background would get rid of the shadow. Yes a diffuser would help but the simple act of getting the flash higher and moving away from the background would move the shadow down and out of sight behind the subject.

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

You may have nailed it...certainly would explain the flash to one side. I just noticed the flash's reflection in the gentleman's glasses, 2 tiny spots, I compared it to a couple vertical shots I made with flash to the side and also in a vertical position, I got the exact same refection...