lorim222315 Loc: Twin City Area

I posted in long exposure. Not sure where is correct.
When shooting northern lights - what setting for color is most correct. It was suggested that I should shoot in Kelvin 3000-3200. Northern lights are cooler than we see them and cooler than the camera sees them.

Bob Yankle Loc: Burlington, NC

I should think you would want to get as close to what you perceived the true color was on the night you shot them. If you get up into the chartreuse range, I personally think you're too warm.

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

The astrophotography section will have the correct info for sure. I believe one needs to shoot at the daylight setting (~5500K?) and shoot raw for ease in post processing. The actual specific wave lengths for the colors can be determined since it deals with the excitement of mostly oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen molecules. I'm fairly certain that an internet search give you those wave lengths and the relative ratios for the various energy levels for the solar storms.

Zone-System-Grandpa Loc: Springfield, Ohio

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

wdross has given you good advice! Bobby-boy Yankle and his flowering bud, Snappy shot, both whom mostly shoot flowers doctored with nightmarish post processing software might have you opting to look for tu-tu pink to shoot the Northern lights before its over with !

CanonShot Loc: Lancaster County, PA

Here's my suggestion:

Go to this link and work your way down through the chapters... an easy read, quite compelling, and these folks know what they are talking about.

http://www.alaskaphotographics.com/blog/how-to-photograph-the-northern-lights-with-a-digital-camera/

lorim222315 Loc: Twin City Area

Thank you! I also agree to try and replicate what you see. We didn't actually see green but the camera sure did.

lorim222315 Loc: Twin City Area

Thanks for your response. I was in the range of 5500K. Trying to find my niche with processing. Some images I have seen are very, very processed.

lorim222315 Loc: Twin City Area

Thank you for the link. A very good read. Now if we could just figure a way to get bugs to leave us alone. The big debate - cold or bugs?!!!

CanonShot Loc: Lancaster County, PA

Keep in mind that Alaskan bugs have a Double F rating: Fast & Furious! Did I mention UNRELENTING... hmmmm!

lorim222315 Loc: Twin City Area

Camera bag has lots of gear, including DEET. But the piece of equipment that saved the night was the golf towel for waving and swatting. Good heavens. And things got much better once the heavy dew started. However that challenged a dry lens. And I thought focus would be the big issue!!!!

CanonShot Loc: Lancaster County, PA

Oh, yes, I forgot to mention the need for an UNRELENTING photographer, too! BIG state...BIG challenges!

Leitz Loc: Solms

As wdross mentioned, the Astronomical Photography Forum would be the most logical one in which to post your question.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-109-1.html

CatMarley Loc: North Carolina

Why the concern? Auroras come in many different colors. I have seen them bright red. With post processing you can make them any color you want - either artificial or to match what you think you saw.

ralfstinson Loc: SF Bay Area

I recommend the link that CanonShot gave for How to 'Photograph the Northern Lights', By Photographer Patrick J. Endres. The color temp / white balance is not as critical as the other elements of photographing the Lights. Lens should be fast, wide angle and without a filter (can cause interference patter with the often mono-chrome light from the Aurora). Camera with high ISO as noise free as possible. Be as manual as possible: focus - exposure - etc. Prepared for winter photography. At -40, some of the digital monitors don't work, but the camera should still take good pictures, mine did. Battery plan for the cold. Good tripod. Location - Location - Location. If you don't truly know your camera, take the manual! Plastic bag for cold camera when you return inside. Learn to use camera in dark with gloves w/out flashlight - practice on stars, about the same exposure! During the day set your lens for manual focus on infinity - then tape it! With gloves on, you won't feel it when you knock the focus off! For zoom lenses, the infinity focus mark often changes with your zoom. Keep your night vision - red flashlight. Tape over any bright LED on your camera. Think safety. It can be slippery, cold, and disorientating. Reset the camera for the next day! I forgot to put my monitor back to automatic brightness so the next day in the bright sunlight, the monitor seemed like it was broken when taking pictures of dog-sled races! Use the histogram, with night vision, you can't judge exposure by looking at the monitor.

bwana Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada

I use Daylight color settings for my Aurora Borealis pictures and time-lapses. Seems to work well.

bwa