newsguygeorge wrote:
I hate to see old equipment go to waste. I have a very old, but in good shape, Vivitar r285 flash designed to attach to a camera’s hot shoe, but with the connection a cord for the X flash. Anyone have suggestions how to use if on a Nikon D5300, assuming I could find a cord?
Thanks. Love the Hedgehog.
If yours is an original 285, it might have really high trigger voltage. Vivitar claimed it was 350V (DC) which has potential to damage most modern DSLRs.
However, a lot of folks tested 285s and found they actually had much lower... roughly 12V to 33V.... which wouldn't be a problem for most recent DSLRs.
Later model 285HV, if that's what you've got, has lower voltage... between 6V and 15V commonly. That should be no problem for most DSLRs.
Some older DSLRs were only rated for between 6V and 24V... I don't know about Nikon specifically, because I've been shooting with Canon for 15+ years. Canon EOS-3 film cameras and DSLRs from around 2000-2004 were only able to handle 6V.... that caused some problems so Canon improved shielding a lot and their most recent DSLRs are typically safe to 250V. I imaginge Nikon are the same, but you should check with Nikon and ask what the D5300 is able to handle just to be safe, though it's likely 250V too.
If you have a voltmeter, it's possible to check the voltage of your particular flash. Instructions on how to measure it are here:
http://www.jeffgeerling.com/articles/photography/measure-voltage-vivitar-flash and here:
http://dpanswers.com/content/genrc_flash_measuretv.phpIf you want to be certain, you can use a product such as a Wein SafeSync, in between the camera and the flash. Or, use some wireless of triggering off-camera. That would be the safest of all.
Incidentally, if you try a SafeSync and it won't work with your flash... that usually means the trigger voltage is quite low... less than 6V.
The Vivitar 285 is a good, reliable flash. I used a lot of them over the years. These days you can buy them pretty cheap and set up a bunch, using one that's triggered by your camera and the others set up with optical slave triggers that will fire them when they "see" the first flash go off. Of course they aren't TTL metered and controlled, the way a dedicated modern flash for your camera would be. But 285 is quite usable and simple. There also were a number of accessories made specifically for it. If you need an instruction manual, it's available to download here:
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/vivitar_flashes/vivitar_flash_units.htm I later switched to Sunpak flashes, because they had some primitive forms of dedication for the cameras I was using at the time. Nothing fancy ar anywhere close to what's possible today, but it was handy to have notification that the flash was ready in the viewfinder and a few other features that the Sunpak could do.