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Need on-camera flash help.
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May 11, 2012 17:37:50   #
skidooman Loc: Minnesota
 
rpavich wrote:
skidooman wrote:


I figured since the OP is a wedding/portrait photographer, I'd try to make it short and sweet. You did it in 6 sentences. Nicely done. :))




Well..I was just building on what you said with more detail. :)


Absolutely :)

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May 11, 2012 18:08:05   #
twowindsbear
 
Remember not to use a shutter speed faster than your flash-sync speed.

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May 11, 2012 18:17:05   #
rpavich Loc: West Virginia
 
twowindsbear wrote:
Remember not to use a shutter speed faster than your flash-sync speed.


Why not? It's done all of the time. :)

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May 11, 2012 18:17:57   #
skidooman Loc: Minnesota
 
rpavich wrote:
anotherview wrote:
Doing flash photography involves 2 exposures -- one for the ambient lighting, and one for the flash lighting.

Once you understand the necessity of making 2 settings for an exposure involving flash lighting, then you will gain the exposure control you seek.

Note that you will have more control with Manual mode settings for Shutter Speed and Aperture.

Here's one way. Set your camera for properly exposing the overall lighting (with the flash unit shut off). At this point, the main subject may appear underexposed. But continue. Check the Histogram to ensure this ambient lighting exposure stays within the range of the Histogram.

Next, turn on the flash unit. The flash lighting will illuminate your main subject. So adjust only the flash lighting output. Do so by having your flash unit set to Manual mode. In the Manual mode, you can set the flash power level to expose the main subject correctly.

You may have to take a few test shots before reaching the desired amount of flash lighting on the main subject.

Some photographers, despite their experience doing photography, still need to learn how the flash lighting and the ambient lighting work together.

Consider how the Shutter Speed controls the amount of photons falling on the sensor by leaving the shutter open for a set time. The sensor captures photons during this period.

Flash lighting occurs at the beginning at the period. But the flash lighting happens only during a very short part of this period -- typically for about 1/1000th second (although it will last a much shorter time at a low flash unit power setting).

After the flash lighting ends, the shutter stays open for the remainder of the duration of the exposure in order to record the ambient lighting.

This two-part mechanical operation determines the final exposure.

Good luck.
Doing flash photography involves 2 exposures -- on... (show quote)


Everyone who wants to use flash should read this post several times until it sinks in...

This should be a sticky...read it...absorb it...fire that speedlight up!
quote=anotherview Doing flash photography involve... (show quote)


This is valuable information and advice. Flashes, with all their capabilities, are often misused and misunderstood. (E)TTL has it's place (limited). Get in to the manual frame of mind, and start to really use your flash.

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May 11, 2012 18:24:26   #
madcapmagishion
 
Being new to photography, with no flash experience what so ever. If its Sunny, why do you need to use the flash?
Just to fill in shadows? Wouldn't a flash diffuser work as well? Something that would light the shadows but not blow out the exposure?

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May 11, 2012 18:34:19   #
rpavich Loc: West Virginia
 
madcapmagishion wrote:
Being new to photography, with no flash experience what so ever. If its Sunny, why do you need to use the flash?
Just to fill in shadows? Wouldn't a flash diffuser work as well? Something that would light the shadows but not blow out the exposure?


There are lots of reasons to modify the available light.

Have you ever seen a movie set during the day? Lights everywhere!

It could be that the available light sucks...or that you need to fill shadows...or that there isn't enough available light...there are lots of reasons.

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May 11, 2012 21:54:24   #
martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida
 
I have to disagree with most of what's been said.. If you meter off a face that is dark "eyes are in the shadows" How are you going to reduce the flash enough to brighten these areas without blowing out the white pants?? You are adding more light to an area that already has to much light. Well, focus on the eyes and meter off the white pants, then reduce flash for shadows?? Doesn't work in my book. Use a reflector to add additional light to the face. Someone tell me what area of this photo your going to meter off and then add flash and make it balanced??

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May 11, 2012 22:01:40   #
rpavich Loc: West Virginia
 
fstop22 wrote:
I have to disagree with most of what's been said.. If you meter off a face that is dark "eyes are in the shadows" How are you going to reduce the flash enough to brighten these areas without blowing out the white pants?? You are adding more light to an area that already has to much light. Well, focus on the eyes and meter off the white pants, then reduce flash for shadows?? Doesn't work in my book. Use a reflector to add additional light to the face. Someone tell me what area of this photo your going to meter off and then add flash and make it balanced??
I have to disagree with most of what's been said..... (show quote)


I wouldn't meter OFF of anything. I'd meter the available light, and add just enough flash to lift the shadows a bit.

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May 11, 2012 22:48:12   #
skidooman Loc: Minnesota
 
rpavich wrote:
fstop22 wrote:
I have to disagree with most of what's been said.. If you meter off a face that is dark "eyes are in the shadows" How are you going to reduce the flash enough to brighten these areas without blowing out the white pants?? You are adding more light to an area that already has to much light. Well, focus on the eyes and meter off the white pants, then reduce flash for shadows?? Doesn't work in my book. Use a reflector to add additional light to the face. Someone tell me what area of this photo your going to meter off and then add flash and make it balanced??
I have to disagree with most of what's been said..... (show quote)


I wouldn't meter OFF of anything. I'd meter the available light, and add just enough flash to lift the shadows a bit.
quote=fstop22 I have to disagree with most of wha... (show quote)


????????????? No one said anything about metering off of the face, or any other part of this image. Balancing flash with ambient light will produce consistent exposure results in manual modes, a technique that escapes some photographers.

Fill flash, when balanced properly with ambient light, will result in an image that opens/lightens shadows, without looking like flash was used. Reflectors are great when you have an assistant to hold it or no wind concerns when on a stand. When working alone doing sports jobs,,,ff is the way to go.

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May 12, 2012 00:29:26   #
anotherview Loc: California
 
Neil Van Niekerk describes how to use flash lighting. I like his first book, and it opened my eyes to flash photography. Check out his Web site: http://www.planetneil.com/

MiG-15, Flying Leatherneck Aviation Museum (2012)
MiG-15, Flying Leatherneck Aviation Museum (2012)...

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May 12, 2012 07:57:01   #
tkhphotography Loc: Gresham, Or, not Seattle
 
Philipschmitten wrote:
I am shooting individual babseball players in a sunny situation and need to use some fill-flash to fill in under the hat. I used manual minus 2 stops, but that blew them away and I tried ETTL and that over exposed them too...What do you suppose I ought to do?


This is similar to outdoor wedding poses I do; Nikon d300, sb800 flash, matrix metering, flash set to ttl bl, iso on sunny day 200 to start, shutter priority (1/250), wb set to flash. Flash with dome on set straight at subject. If close in, you may need to dial the flash down 1/2 to 1/3 stop.

I got these settings from Sam Stern on another forum years ago and I've used his suggestions for a lot of weddings and shoot in high jpeg for most of the shots and haven't been let down more than 3 times on specific shots. And that was only because of all the brides dress were pure white and I had to take a second shot and adjust the flash.

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May 12, 2012 08:59:27   #
DANthephotoMAN
 
Say, I work for a company and do these all the time. We have a backdrop where he stands, and the tripod about 6feet away. on either side of us we have flash umbrellas. If it's a sunny day, we use a reflector(NOT for the reflectiveness)to shade him. We then will use a fill flash. They turn out great, try it.

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May 12, 2012 10:53:55   #
molsonice Loc: Grand Blanc, MI
 
You could also try with the flash off the camera to to left of your subject, set the proper WB and try using the Tv or Av at different exposure setting and see what results you get. This is not a bad shot by any means though :thumbup: .

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May 12, 2012 17:04:00   #
CaptainC Loc: Colorado, south of Denver
 
tkhphotography wrote:
Philipschmitten wrote:
I am shooting individual babseball players in a sunny situation and need to use some fill-flash to fill in under the hat. I used manual minus 2 stops, but that blew them away and I tried ETTL and that over exposed them too...What do you suppose I ought to do?


This is similar to outdoor wedding poses I do; Nikon d300, sb800 flash, matrix metering, flash set to ttl bl, iso on sunny day 200 to start, shutter priority (1/250), wb set to flash. Flash with dome on set straight at subject. If close in, you may need to dial the flash down 1/2 to 1/3 stop.

I got these settings from Sam Stern on another forum years ago and I've used his suggestions for a lot of weddings and shoot in high jpeg for most of the shots and haven't been let down more than 3 times on specific shots. And that was only because of all the brides dress were pure white and I had to take a second shot and adjust the flash.
quote=Philipschmitten I am shooting individual ba... (show quote)


If you are outside - with nothing for the light to bounce from, the dome diffuser is 100% useless. Well, it does make the flash work almost twice as hard to get EXACTLY the same exposure and look as no dome. I have proven it - one cannot tell the difference and the flash has to be bumped up 1 and 2/3 stops.

It is elementary that what makes soft light is the size of the source in relation to the subject and the dome does not make the source bigger.

Outside, take the dome off and save your batteries, and shorten the recycle time. Inside, with walls or a ceiling is a different story.

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May 16, 2013 16:27:53   #
Philipschmitten Loc: Texas
 
WOW! Excellent advice, thanks!!

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