charles brown Loc: Tennesse

First posted this in the Photo Analysis section but got to thinking, not a photo issue but an equipment issue. Lately have been trying to use my Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 55-300 4.5-5.6 G ED VR lens to photograph birds in the back yard. I need as much reach as possible with this lens. Have not been very happy with the results, the pictures are not sharp. Did a test of the lens, samples below. The camera was mounted on a tripod, aperture priority, auto white balance, VR off, auto focus, center weight metering, ISO 100, UV filter on lens, and used a remote shutter release. I used auto focus because I don't trust my eyes, am 75 years old. Did test shots with the lens set at 300mm and 270mm. When image increased to 100% none are sharp. Not sure if it is me or the lens. Any suggestions?

Attached file:
(Download)

Attached file:
(Download)

Attached file:
(Download)

Attached file:
(Download)

Attached file:
(Download)

Bobbee

Hey Charles, Maybe the Lens/Camera combo are not synced. I would look into SpyderLensCal. Look at some videos first on setup. It might be that when you are taking your pictures you have not followed the procedures for taking the shot. If you still are not happy look to see if your camera 'can' djust and then buy the device and try to adjust.

Jackdoor Loc: Huddersfield, Yorkshire.

A couple of things to try before looking in more depth: Firstly, dump the UV filter- they're a waste of time and degrade the image. With digital sensors, the only function of a UV filter is to protect the front of the lens from contaminants such as animals, children and beaches. Secondly, repeat your test shots in live view. If there's an improvement with that, your lens/camera matching needs adjusting, if that's available on your camera.

RichardTaylor Loc: Sydney, Australia

See this very similar thread, by the OP.

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-394146-1.html

charles brown Loc: Tennesse

Thank you Bobbee and Richard for your suggestions. Will try them all and let you know what happens.

PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago

I would repeat the test at ISO 400. Is the lens creeping after you focused?

Erv Loc: Medina Ohio

Hi Charles. Every time I get a new lens, I put the camera on a tripod and do some tests to see if it is focusing right. Very easy to do. Just get a yard stick and put a black line on it in the middle. Make it 45 degrees to the camera. Take a few shots and then look if the cameras is focusing on that mark. You should be able to go in camera and adjust it to front focus or back focus to get it right.

Bobbee

I got these from people here.

(Download)

Attached file:
(Download)

Attached file:
(Download)

JCam Loc: MD Eastern Shore

With Auto Focus, you might try the "center spot" option. Frequently auto focus will focus on the largest thing in it's view which probably isn't the bird.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

When you post the exact same (help me) question in different sections, you will get different responses that will make it hard to track on your end and well as everyone taking time to consider your question will not be seeing the comments from others...

A UV filter is red herring. Based on what I'm seeing. Whether you use it or not, unless you change your methods, you will not get different results. If your lens test technique is similar to your bird shooting, the summary points below apply to both shooting situations.

You mention auto focus, but where are you manually setting the focus point? For the first post, the (f/5.6 for 1/320), this seems the best of the three I looked at. All are grossly underexposed as mentioned on the other post where people are responding. I didn't click through the images guessing where the focus points fell. At f/5.6 at distance, you'll need to manually set your point of focus and then determine how sharp the results at that point. Also mentioned elsewhere, the grass seems to have the best focus. You're going through all this effort to test, but then did you let the camera decide where to focus? If the focus is not sharp where you set the focus, then you've got something to consider on the lens + camera calibration needs if that's an option for your camera body.

I think another reason f/5.6 for 1/320 looks best is the shutter speed. You're outdoors. At f/11 for 1/60, the camera and / or the flower can be moving in the wind at 270mm.

We don't see what kind of camera you're using nor the method you're using to create TIFF attachments. The three I looked at are all pretty noisy for ISO-100 as well as grossly underexposed.

Summary: get your shutter speed up. Get closer and fill your frame. Get your ISO up impacting your shutter speed and exposure. Set your focus point / cluster specifically on your point of interest.

Leitz Loc: Solms

Let's see if I have this straight. Your pictures are not sharp, but it's not a photo issue. You're not sure if it's you or the lens, but it's an equipment issue. I'd really like to help, but am quite sure I lack the necessary qualifications.

steveg48

I can figure out how to use the first chart. How do you use the 2nd and 3rd?

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

You are right - it's an equipment issue AND a technique issue. What tripod and head are you using?
I see a little movement in all but the first image -

You received lots of well-intentioned advice, but most of it wrong - It's not a focus issue, it's blur. The kind of blur that comes from shutter shock when a camera is used on an inadequate tripod, at a shutter speed between 1/10 and 1/200. The only sharp image is the one you shot at 1/320, which is a strong clue. An inadequate tripod will transmit micro vibrations like the ones in all but the first image, regardless of shutter delay, mirror lockup, remote shutter release. For a lens with a field of view of a 450mm lens, a pretty substantial tripod is in order. It has nothing whatsoever to do with camera and lens weight - and the tripod's load capability. You need to select a tripod that will dampen vibrations of the sort being generated by the camera in this image. A tripod with a top tube diameter of at least 37mm or bigger would all but eliminate the blur. Anything less, then you'd be better off shooting hand held at a higher shutter speed, which at 300mm should be at least 1/700 sec or shorter, or take your chances using VR and shooting between 1/160 and 1/300.

BTW, the results rule out the UV filter and lens calibration, though shooting this in live view wouldn't hurt just in case. Also, these are all mildly underexposed, so noise is a bit of an issue as well. Lastly, and unsharpened raw file is never going to look sharp and crisp - it's going to look like an unprocessed raw file. Here is a quick processing to show what the possibilities are:

(Download)

Retina Loc: Near Charleston,SC

Agree with the UV removal even if it's not the main issue here. I did not see a shutter speed in the post but with bird photography I will assume it's not in the range where VR on a tripod would be a problem. I leave it on except for long exposures.

Marilyng Loc: Lorain,Oh.

I had the same lens on my Nikon d 7100 & felt the same way you do about my photos,they were never sharp.I finally sold this lens & purchased a 28-300.I am so happy with my new lens.Good luck to u!