high speed sinc
May 14, 2016 22:10:20 #
ok. tried the high speed sinc today. I was trying to shoot wide open at f2.8 with a 200 shutter speed. I was outside in my back yard
7:00 ish. still day light..my subject was exposed perfectly but the background which was trees about 15 or 20 feet back was solid black.
im new at this kind of thing but was wanting to try it. I was able to bring the background up with the shadows slider in lightroom but
just like to know what made the back ground go black other than the shutter being to high. thanks for your help.
7:00 ish. still day light..my subject was exposed perfectly but the background which was trees about 15 or 20 feet back was solid black.
im new at this kind of thing but was wanting to try it. I was able to bring the background up with the shadows slider in lightroom but
just like to know what made the back ground go black other than the shutter being to high. thanks for your help.
May 14, 2016 22:19:58 #
May 14, 2016 22:39:40 #
sorry im not much help.. once I looked at them I deleted them and then changed my setting to something different.
that ok. thanks anyway. I will try this again until I get it..
that ok. thanks anyway. I will try this again until I get it..
May 14, 2016 22:47:38 #
mcraven wrote:
ok. tried the high speed sinc today. I was trying ... (show quote)
1/200th sec is not usually high speed sync with any focal plane shutter camera I am aware of, but in any case, that may have been the cause of your dark background.
In high speed sync mode the flash pulses rapidly essentially giving you a brief continuous light to expose the sensor at faster setting than your normal sync setting. Read more here: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-74372-1.html
May 15, 2016 00:09:57 #
Did you have it on TTL. If so at 2.8 the sensor got a lot of light back in a hurry and shut down the power. So Subject lite, background black.
May 15, 2016 00:16:51 #
You didn't say how far the subject was from the flash but I suspect that the inverse square law was in effect. If the trees were twice as far from the flash as the subject they would only receive 1/4 the light.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inverse-square_law
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inverse-square_law
May 15, 2016 05:41:35 #
May 15, 2016 07:31:23 #
mcraven wrote:
...but just like to know what made the back ground go black other than the shutter being to high. thanks for your help.
Lots of members have posted dramatic shots of a beautiful subject with a black background. The idea is that there is enough light for the subject, but not enough for the background. Here are some relevant links I've accumulated over the years.
http://digital-photography-school.com/get-an-invisible-black-background-to-your-portraits-shooting-anywhere-video/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Photograph-a-Black-Background/
http://www.adorama.com/alc/0014344/article/Get-Absolute-Black-Background-for-Portraits
http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/7762/what-do-i-need-to-get-photos-with-a-unifom-black-background-not-with-post
http://petapixel.com/2013/06/01/quick-and-easy-trick-for-adding-a-black-background-to-your-shots-anywhere/
http://www.apogeephoto.com/may2004/jaltengarten5_2004.shtml
May 15, 2016 09:11:41 #
I am not an expert here but have read a lot and have used high speed sync flash on my D7100 with a Nikon Speedlight SB700 (hummingbirds, grandchildren in bright sun with shadows). The range is very short as the flash becomes a flickering strobe approx 7'. But for this to work you have to increase your shutter speed even higher, check your manual 250-320 and you have to set it up in-camera as well. I think you want to use fill flash to help expose the trees, if that is your goal using iTTL. This requires your metering to be on matrix with a Speedlight. High speed sync will not work with a pop up flash. You could also try increasing your ISO in increments up to 200, 400, 800, 1200, 1600 without the flash shooting in manual and chimp until you get the results desired.
mcraven wrote:
ok. tried the high speed sinc today. I was trying ... (show quote)
May 15, 2016 09:18:48 #
Dark background occurs because you dont understand that when you shoot with the flash you are taking two different exposures. Ambient and subject. A faster ss will give you darker ambient and a slower will lighten it up while maintaining same subject exposure in ttl mode
May 15, 2016 09:31:29 #
I use high speed sync (Auto FP in Nikon speak) so I can have shallow depth of field on a bright day while using flash. On a sunny day with the regular maximum sync seting of 1/250 with ISO 100, my aperture would have to be in the neighborhood of f/11 or so...way too much for a portrait. Using HSS, one can open up that aperture to give a less distracting out of focus background.
Yes, HSS mode does lower the flash output, but for wider apertures, there is plenty of power, even while using a speedlight in a softbox.
Yes, HSS mode does lower the flash output, but for wider apertures, there is plenty of power, even while using a speedlight in a softbox.
May 15, 2016 09:31:30 #
May 15, 2016 09:33:02 #
May 15, 2016 09:47:40 #
You are talking about shutter drag.....Right? You can achieve the same result increasing the ISO.....Yes?
Tracht3 wrote:
Dark background occurs because you dont understand that when you shoot with the flash you are taking two different exposures. Ambient and subject. A faster ss will give you darker ambient and a slower will lighten it up while maintaining same subject exposure in ttl mode
May 15, 2016 09:53:42 #
ABJanes wrote:
You are talking about shutter drag.....Right? You can achieve the same result increasing the ISO.....Yes?
Nope.
High speed sync is a different animal.
Read THIS from the FAQ section.
Info on dragging the shutter can be found HERE.
The ultimate goal of the OP is still a mystery, so using a longer shutter setting would help expose for the trees.
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