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Shooting in Apature
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May 2, 2016 11:08:31   #
Moomoo48 Loc: Boston
 
SteveR wrote:
One thing, by shooting at f2.8, you're limiting your dof. I would normally shoot sports using shutter priority, but you can also make sure that you get the aperture that you want by adjusting your ISO.

In this case, I'd select a lower shutter speed, and make sure my aperture was around f8 or 11. You'll want a shutter speed sufficient to stop the action, 1/500th or even 1/1000th depending on the lighting conditions.


Thanks I have another game today and it's rainy and overcast so I'll make adjustments accordingly

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May 2, 2016 12:15:17   #
Armadillo Loc: Ventura, CA
 
Moomoo48,

After today's game, if there are still issues with exposure there are some advanced techniques you can employ to improve the exposure and keep the action frozen.

Good luck,

Michael G

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May 2, 2016 13:45:41   #
BebuLamar
 
Moomoo48 wrote:
I just started shooting High School sports in Apature . I shot a La Cross game in bright sun light using my Nikon D7100 with a Nikon 70-200 mm lens.
Here's the problem I set it at a f 2.8 with 400 ISO and left the shutter speed to the camera. When I viewed them in LR they were extremely light and the shutter speed was at 1/6400 or1/8000.

I am assuming that I should have upped the f stop to reduce the light thus lower the shutter speed. Am I on the right track?


Yeah OK!

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May 3, 2016 06:54:57   #
tusketwedge Loc: Nova Scotia Canada
 
try ISO 100,F8 in A mode for starters. See what it gives you and adjust from there. If shooting sports set the release to Ch.

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May 3, 2016 07:27:48   #
Jim Bob
 
Moomoo48 wrote:
I just started shooting High School sports in Apature . I shot a La Cross game in bright sun light using my Nikon D7100 with a Nikon 70-200 mm lens.
Here's the problem I set it at a f 2.8 with 400 ISO and left the shutter speed to the camera. When I viewed them in LR they were extremely light and the shutter speed was at 1/6400 or1/8000.

I am assuming that I should have upped the f stop to reduce the light thus lower the shutter speed. Am I on the right track?


Nikons tend to over expose. Set your exposure compensation to -3 or -7 in daylight.

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May 3, 2016 07:34:45   #
MMC Loc: Brooklyn NY
 
Use M mode and you will have full control. Check histogram after first test shots and make correction changing aperture, SS or ISO. Histogram should be close to the right side but should not cross it.
Moomoo48 wrote:
I just started shooting High School sports in Apature . I shot a La Cross game in bright sun light using my Nikon D7100 with a Nikon 70-200 mm lens.
Here's the problem I set it at a f 2.8 with 400 ISO and left the shutter speed to the camera. When I viewed them in LR they were extremely light and the shutter speed was at 1/6400 or1/8000.

I am assuming that I should have upped the f stop to reduce the light thus lower the shutter speed. Am I on the right track?

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May 3, 2016 07:35:02   #
pithydoug Loc: Catskill Mountains, NY
 
Dngallagher wrote:
If your shutter speed maxed out, yes, closing down your aperture or dropping your iso would reduce the lightness.


And increase your depth of field and see all the players.

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May 3, 2016 08:27:21   #
Carl D Loc: Albemarle, NC.
 
Why would you want to shoot sports in daylight at f2.8, no DOF. Would be better at f5.6 or f8'and use a higher ISO. Any shutter speed above 1/1600 would probably be fine for that type f action.

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May 3, 2016 08:52:04   #
f8bengal Loc: West Nawth Carolinah
 
In bright sunlight, those settings pushed capability of he camera off the edge. Stop down to f/5.6 or 8 and see what shutter speed is showing. Keep stopping down until speed is reasonable for stop action.

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May 3, 2016 09:14:22   #
camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.
 
Aperture set to the widest setting and ISO set to 400 I would say is overkill. Nothing against setting the ISO to 400 but look for an aperture that will allow you to stop action with the shutter speed that the camera will select.
Perhaps a better choice in your case would be shutter priority. At 1/1000 you will freeze the players but if that is not enough you can always set a higher shooter speed. The camera will select in bright sun at ISO 400 a good aperture for that speed and the pictures will not be overexposed.
Try also a slow shutter speed with a base ISO and small apertures to show motion. Some of those could be winners.

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May 3, 2016 10:03:27   #
gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast
 
Capture48 wrote:
Agree with what others have said, it might also help to look at your histogram after the first shot to see if you were in the ballpark. If you had looked, you would have known to adjust. Theres the old saying of "Shoot to the Right". But if you're blowing things out your too far right.


Great advice, check the histogram. No matter what mode you're shooting, this is a good habit to get into.

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May 3, 2016 11:01:16   #
SteveR Loc: Michigan
 
MMC wrote:
Use M mode and you will have full control. Check histogram after first test shots and make correction changing aperture, SS or ISO. Histogram should be close to the right side but should not cross it.


Actually, you can have full control in any mode. If you shoot in shutter priority and test shoot and your aperture is not what you'd like, you can adjust either or both your shutter speed or your iso until you get the combination that you desire. Sometimes you have situations, like sports, where shutter speeds are more important. In other situations, the aperture and dof is more important. Because of this, I almost always select either aperture or shutter priority.

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May 3, 2016 11:14:38   #
MMC Loc: Brooklyn NY
 
In A mode you can choose only aperture in S mode only SS after that CAMERA decides what should be the second part of exposure. You can correct camera decision using exposure compensation, in M mode you are the boss and camera will do what you want.
SteveR wrote:
Actually, you can have full control in any mode. If you shoot in shutter priority and test shoot and your aperture is not what you'd like, you can adjust either or both your shutter speed or your iso until you get the combination that you desire. Sometimes you have situations, like sports, where shutter speeds are more important. In other situations, the aperture and dof is more important. Because of this, I almost always select either aperture or shutter priority.

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May 3, 2016 13:52:42   #
JCam Loc: MD Eastern Shore
 
I don't know your camera, but doesn't that camera give you an option of auto ISO with a maximum limit?

For normal conditions with adequate light like the picture you posted, I'd set the shutter speed up around 1/600 (higher if you want stop action), auto ISO up to 400, and let the camera pick the necessary f-stop. If it is too open for the focus you need, increase the ISO.

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May 3, 2016 13:56:16   #
SteveR Loc: Michigan
 
MMC wrote:
In A mode you can choose only aperture in S mode only SS after that CAMERA decides what should be the second part of exposure. You can correct camera decision using exposure compensation, in M mode you are the boss and camera will do what you want.


Correct....however, if you do what I suggested, you can actually find out what the camera is going to select for the second part of the exposure. IF that is not what the photographer desires, adjustments can be made to either the first part of the exposure or to ISO to achieve both acceptable shutter speed and aperture. In a way, it's shooting manual yet having a priority on one leg of the exposure triangle.

For instance, the OP was shooting at 1/6000 and f2.8. High speed to shut out light and wide open aperture to bring in light....diametrically opposed settings. With shutter priority, for sports, in good light, starting at 1/1000, I would assume that aperture would be closed down more. If necessary, shutter speed could be set at 1/500.

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