Focus stack @ 6:1 - Saw-toothed Grain Beetle
Mar 2, 2016 22:18:11 #
As a starting point, where should a beginner start after camera and lens?
Mar 2, 2016 22:58:24 #
hannaco wrote:
Either one of these would be a good starter rail. As a starting point, where should a beginner start after camera and lens?
http://www.amazon.com/Velbon-Super-Magnesium-Slider-Macro/dp/B004L5GTSM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456976044&sr=8-1&keywords=velbon+mag+slider
or
http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-27100-Micro-Compound-Table/dp/B000S81MHY/ref=pd_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41rqyw4N4lL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1FKF7962G5JZRFTNW7VY
The Velbon is made for photography, easy mounting. The Proxxon would require some moderate DIY work but has finer adjustments & less backlash. For closer steps @ higher magnification, this would be a good choice. I have no experience with either one of these but I have read that the Proxxon has been used with very good results.
Start out by doing 1:1, Then 2:1 etc. Diffused Flash is necessary to freeze any slight vibration.
Mar 2, 2016 23:12:41 #
There is also the option of keeping the camera fixed, and moving the subject. My setups are all vertical, and I use a cheap chinese Z-stage. It works very well, giving 10um accuracy (smaller if you are reasonably careful).
Mar 6, 2016 19:43:49 #
Mar 6, 2016 21:08:28 #
naturepics43 wrote:
Very nice work and thanks for posting. This setup looks as if you are using the 70-200mm as a relay/tube lens for the objective, is the objective inf. corrected, maybe at f=200mm? Some time ago I used this same setup (70-200) set at 200m working with a inf. corrected objective. I had some vignetting on a full frame camera body (D800), and switched to a dedicated tube/relay lens (Raynox) assembly.I don't have a photo of my rig with the bellows, but imagine the bellows in place of the 70-200 lens with objective. The second photo shows the paper towel diffuser around the specimen. Hope this helps your friend.
Also, you mentioned using the PB-5 bellows instead of the 70-200mm, this would seem to require a different type objective (non-inf corrected).
I am looking into utilizing a bellows for my Nikon D800 with a Raynox tube/relay lens (150 & 250) and microscope objective. Presently I use a dedicated set of Al extension tubes (42mm & 52mm) to create the overall lens, but leaves no ability to fine tune for a given objective & relay/tube setup.
I know almost nothing about bellows and curious as to how you have your PB-5 setup with the D7000, and if you have a preference over other bellows (PB-6, 4, 3 and eBay no-names) for this type of work?
Mar 7, 2016 18:43:44 #
Mar 7, 2016 21:13:27 #
mawyatt wrote:
Thanks mawyatt, glad you enjoyed it. Yes,it's an infinity corrected Motic 10x APO objective. I like using the 70-200 for it's ability to adjust the magnification down to a little under 8x before any vignetting on my Nikon D-7000. The PB-5 bellows I mentioned I use with "finite" objectives, in this case it was a Nikon 5x MM finite objective. I know almost nothing about bellows and curious as to how you have your PB-5 setup with the D7000, and if you have a preference over other bellows (PB-6, 4, 3 and eBay no-names) for this type of work?
I chose the Nikon PB-5 bellows for several reasons, Nikon build quality, both the camera & lens panels ("panels" is the term Nikon uses) move on the rails AND there is a tripod mount at both ends of the rails which allowed me to install a full length arca style plant for stability. ( See attached photo) All the other bellows that I found use a single tripod mount. I plan on getting a Raynox 250 to use with my bellows for my Motic infinity objective to help fill my magnification gap. If I understand correctly, it will give me 6.25x
Mar 8, 2016 04:17:32 #
naturepics43 wrote:
A question from your vast experience: I occasionally use a thin extension tube with my 70-200 zoom for flower close ups. Is it just me, or is the contrast a bit lacking with standard lenses and close ups, as compared to using a true macro lens? Thank you.It's really not as expensive as you might think if you spend a lot of time on eBay looking for good deals. I just roughed out what I have invested in my rig and NOT counting the D 7000 camera & 70-200mm lens with objective, I have about $450.00 invested. I started out with a much less expensive rig. I've added to my original rig several times to get where I'm at today. Start small & add more features when you can.
Mar 8, 2016 07:48:09 #
What do you mean by "thin extension tube"? Do you mean an add-on "close-up" or "diopter" lens you put on the front of the lens? A thin extension tube won't make much difference in increasing your magnification, but also won't degrade the image if it is of good quality. Poor quality extension tubes that have shiny inner surfaces can greatly degrade contrast. They need to be flocked inside to keep this from happening. Add-on lenses vary a lot in how much degradation they cause.
Mar 8, 2016 11:03:05 #
naturepics43 wrote:
Nice setup, looks very stable!! I just ordered a Nikon PB-6 from a member on another forum, so I'll be playing with theses bellows soon :) Yes,it's an infinity corrected Motic 10x APO objective. The PB-5 bellows I mentioned I use with "finite" objectives, in this case it was a Nikon 5x MM finite objective.
I am using the Raynox 150 and 250 with inf corrected F=200mm objectives. Yes, with the 250 you should get about 125/200 times the objective magnification. I have this (Raynox 250 & Mitutoyo 5X) in a extension tube setup now with 42mm tubes (may change this to 52mm soon) and various adapters. The Mitutoyo 5X works well considering it's not working into the 200mm design space for the relay/tube lens. Like you I am trying to get the in-between magnifications that the Canon folks can get to with the MPE macro lens they have!!
I did see vignetting with the 70-200mm F2.8 on a full frame body (D800), and even with the 42mm extension tubes. That's why I went with the 52mm extension tubes with the reversed Raynox 150, I started out with 42mm....so I have a few "extra" 42mm extension tubes that initially I put to work with the Raynox 250. Thanks for showing your setup, very nice indeed!!
Mar 8, 2016 15:55:58 #
rmpsrpms wrote:
Extension tubes have no glass in them, so no losses there. I use the Kenko set, and the thinnest tube is about 12mm I think. That actually makes quite a difference when shooting flower close ups with my 70-200 f4 zoom lens. AF and VR all works great with those tubes. What do you mean by "thin extension tube"... (show quote)
You are thinking of tele-converters that have glass in them.
Mar 9, 2016 09:51:07 #
rmpsrpms wrote:
You are right on about the inner reflections, they can seriously degrade contrast. I have used Protostar as a flocking material and it's works very well.What do you mean by "thin extension tube"... (show quote)
Should mention that the new Nikon 1.4 Teleconverter works well with the 105mm VR macro lenses, I saw little difference between this and an quality extension tube (Kenko).
Mar 9, 2016 10:01:46 #
Ernie Misner wrote:
There is some "effective" loss with extension tubes, this is because the image is impressed across a larger area when the lens is extended with a tube. The area is larger than the camera sensor, thus the magnification, but losing some of the total image light to the sensor surroundings.Extension tubes have no glass in them, so no losses there. I use the Kenko set, and the thinnest tube is about 12mm I think. That actually makes quite a difference when shooting flower close ups with my 70-200 f4 zoom lens. AF and VR all works great with those tubes. You are thinking of tele-converters that have glass in them.
Mar 9, 2016 12:37:03 #
mawyatt wrote:
Light which is "lost" has the potential to reflect off the surfaces of the extension tube and hit the sensor, reducing contrast. Dedicated macro lenses are designed to keep this from happening. You can mitigate the problem with absorptive flocking on the inside of the tube.There is some "effective" loss with extension tubes, this is because the image is impressed across a larger area when the lens is extended with a tube. The area is larger than the camera sensor, thus the magnification, but losing some of the total image light to the sensor surroundings.
edited to add: just saw mawyatt's similar reply.
Mar 9, 2016 15:33:02 #
mawyatt wrote:
Thanks Mike! I was referring to loss of resolution due to glass elements in a tele-converter.There is some "effective" loss with extension tubes, this is because the image is impressed across a larger area when the lens is extended with a tube. The area is larger than the camera sensor, thus the magnification, but losing some of the total image light to the sensor surroundings.
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