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fast action photo fix
Apr 23, 2012 09:09:40 #
I have the pleasure of sitting by dirtbike tracks almost every week in the summer. I am working on taking really crisp photos of the riders. There is never a shortage of action. The pictures I take are not as sharp as I would like. I hand hold the camera and I use a 18-270 lens. I also have the kit lens and a 70-300 zoom. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Apr 23, 2012 10:25:48 #
The riders look fairly sharp, but I see a trace of motion blur in spots. Of the two lenses you mention, I think the 70-300 is probably the sharpest so that's what I'd shoot with unless I was very close to the action. I see some blur in background, indicating that you could shoot a little faster shutter speed, and I'd try a smaller aperture if possible. It would be helpful to know specifics of the camera and shooting parameters.
Apr 23, 2012 10:56:28 #
#1 ISO 400
1/200 sec
f 5.0
#2 ISO 640
1/200
5.0
#3 ISO 400
1/200
f 5.0
canon rebelxs thanks for you help.
1/200 sec
f 5.0
#2 ISO 640
1/200
5.0
#3 ISO 400
1/200
f 5.0
canon rebelxs thanks for you help.
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Apr 24, 2012 08:41:24 #
Apr 24, 2012 13:13:45 #
Depending on the camera angle to the action, I'd normally shoot this stuff at 1/500 or faster. If the action is coming toward you, you may get away with a lower speed, but if it is crossing horizontally in front of you, you need to shoot in the 1/1000 or faster range. Note the background motion blur in photo 3 from panning. Also consider that the closer you are to the action, the faster you probably have to shoot. You can analyze how these principles operate in photos 2 & 3. Your composition and timing are good. You just need to tweak your process a little to get great coverage. If you aren't already doing it, you might consider helping things along with some photo editing.
Apr 24, 2012 13:20:01 #
1/200 is not nearly fast enough to freeze action and/or make sure that you don't have camera shake.
You're using an 18-270 lens....that means that your shutter speed should be a MINIMUM of 1/250 IF your hand is rock steady....much more if you're shaky like me.
I'd go to (using your settings as a base line)
#1 ISO 800
1/1000 sec
f 3.5
OR
#1 ISO 400
1/500 sec
f 3.5
Note that these are just examples given to show about how you could up the shutter speed. The actual settings should be based on what a proper exposure would be.
If you aren't comfortable in manual mode you COULD do this:
Set your camera to TV mode.
Set the ISO on auto and for a max of 800
Set your shutter speed to AT LEAST 1/500.
Then see where that gets you exposure wise.
You're using an 18-270 lens....that means that your shutter speed should be a MINIMUM of 1/250 IF your hand is rock steady....much more if you're shaky like me.
I'd go to (using your settings as a base line)
#1 ISO 800
1/1000 sec
f 3.5
OR
#1 ISO 400
1/500 sec
f 3.5
Note that these are just examples given to show about how you could up the shutter speed. The actual settings should be based on what a proper exposure would be.
If you aren't comfortable in manual mode you COULD do this:
Set your camera to TV mode.
Set the ISO on auto and for a max of 800
Set your shutter speed to AT LEAST 1/500.
Then see where that gets you exposure wise.
Apr 24, 2012 13:47:50 #
This is all great information. thank you for your help. I will try a faster shutter speed. I try to get pictures from all angles so I will keep shutter speed in mind. I have never shot in full manual but I will give it a shot and see how it goes. Wish me luck!
Apr 24, 2012 13:51:38 #
rmattoon wrote:
... I have never shot in full manual but I will give it a shot and see how it goes. Wish me luck!
Good luck and I know that you can do it!!
If you shoot manual for two weeks exclusively...you'll wonder why you ever did it any other way... :)
Apr 24, 2012 16:20:50 #
Number one and number three need a different technique from number two. Number two needs a fast shutter speed (1/1000+) and accurate focusing. Set the camera to follow-focus and select only one focus point - the centre one is best. The other two require a good panning technique. 1/200 is plenty fast enough, but your technique is off. Stand facing the point your are going to take the photo. Do not move your feet, but swivel your hips to start following the bike, keeping it centred in the viewfinder. Take the shot as it reaches the right point, and keep following it after you have pressed the shutter, still not moving your feet. This will mean your body is at its most relaxed when you take the shot. You will need lots of practice, and you won't get it right every time, but you will get plenty of keepers. This shot was taken in very poor conditions, dull and rainy, so I had to use a very slow shutter speed, but still got the car sharp. The blurred background gives a good impression of its speed.
Apr 24, 2012 16:45:50 #
Boy-oh-boy do I have a lot to learn. On the bright side, I will have plenty of opportunities to practice. Thanks.
Apr 24, 2012 23:45:21 #
rocar7 wrote:
Number one and number three need a different techn... (show quote)
Take his advice, it's good. Pre-focus also helps. When the rider gets to that pre-focused spot, shoot but don't jerk the camera. Timing is everything. Look at the background too. That is also an important element in the photo. Show the crowd or other bikes in the background, not trees.
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Apr 27, 2012 12:33:49 #
What are your thoughts on shooting in sport mode for continuous shooting? Will I be able to take really good pictures that way or should I stick to single shooting. These photos I have posted were taken in sport mode and I was wondering if that may be part of my problem among other things.
Apr 27, 2012 12:35:23 #
rocar7 wrote:
Number one and number three need a different techn... (show quote)
That is one fine shot...and I could tell that was a 5D mark II even before right clicking on it!..very very nice.
Apr 28, 2012 04:29:45 #
rpavich wrote:
quote=rocar7 Number one and number three need a d... (show quote)
Thanks for the compliment! Good equipment is a great help, but it's your own technique that allows that equipment to perform at its best. It keeps coming back to practice, practice, practice. And thank goodness for digital, where mistakes are just deleted and don't cost you a penny - unlike the old days of film, when everything took so long.
Apr 28, 2012 05:32:35 #
rocar7 wrote:
Thanks for the compliment! Good equipment is a great help, but it's your own technique that allows that equipment to perform at its best. It keeps coming back to practice, practice, practice. And thank goodness for digital, where mistakes are just deleted and don't cost you a penny - unlike the old days of film, when everything took so long.
Thanks for the compliment! Good equipment is a great help, but it's your own technique that allows that equipment to perform at its best. It keeps coming back to practice, practice, practice. And thank goodness for digital, where mistakes are just deleted and don't cost you a penny - unlike the old days of film, when everything took so long.
I didn't mean to imply that it was your equipment that made that a great shot...it's obviously very well done...but there is also something unmistakable about how 5D shots look...I don't know what it is...
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