Vick I Loc: Texas

I had the opportunity to buy a Gossen Luna-Pro F a few weeks ago. I thought it might help me to learn more about lighting, and I'm sure it could. Unfortunately for me, I am confused by the Gossen user manual.

Specifically, I don't understand the distinction between incident and reflected measurements. And how will using a light meter like this help me with metering, if I have a good grasp of how my camera's light metering options work?

Thanks for your tutelage :)

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

It's easy.

the distinction is this:

Incident measurement measures the light that's "falling" down on the subject.

Reflected measurement measures light "reflected off of" your subject.

That means that incident meters are not fooled by light clothing or dark clothing or anything like that....



Here is a very good video all about how a light meter works and why it's superior to the camera's built in meter and how to use it.

https://vimeo.com/26877560

If you need any help....just PM me and I'll do what I can.

Vick I Loc: Texas

That was very helpful. Thank you for posting.

Roger Hicks Loc: Aquitaine

Take a look at the thing about metering basics on my site, http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/meters%20and%20metering.html . There you'll see illustrations and read explanations.

Cheers,

R.

lensman

While I might be in the minority, professional photogrzphers do regularly use light meters as a an indespensable tool in producing consistant images. No matter what you may hear, hand held light meters, including spot meters are still inportant photographic tools for those photographers who want to make a photograph not just "shoot" one. But as with all tools, their use is dependant on the particular job you are working on. There are many photography programs that require a student to have and use a hand held light meter.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

I think they are highly underrated as a tool and as an educational tool.

Just the process of using of one makes many light bulbs go on! Just seeing your settings and physically changing them to record the exposure correctly is an education in itself.

Too many times people keep using auto settings and then wonder why they don't really understand why their shots aren't what they wanted or they wonder how f/stops and shutter speeds interact...

Once a person uses a meter for a short time many cobwebs go away.... :)

As Mike from Lightenupandshoot.com says..."I want a car with only one steering wheel!"

frangeo Loc: Texas

I strongly suggest that you read what rpavich said about meters. Regardless of what many say about light meters not being necessary, there are times when the light meter is the most valuable tool in your camera bag. You don’t need a light meter if you are a point and shoot photographer. I’m referring to those that see a great shot. The light is perfect. The image is in a great environment. Push the button and get a great shot. That is point and shoot photography. ( Please don’t get on my case about point and shoot. It doesn’t mean it did not take any talent, it’s just means that you did nothing to make the light what it was. You simply photographed what was in front of you. ) Photography is the recording of light. When the light is not perfect and you have to shoot an image for a client it is your job to make it perfect. When shooting a head shot for an executive for example, I need to know the value of the main light, the fill light, the rim light, the hair light and the background light. Standing behind the world’s most expensive camera will NOT give you this information. Truly understanding light will improve the quality of your images tremendously. The light meter is a tool to help you get to the point, and as rpavich said, “the cobwebs will go away”. When that happens a whole new world will open up for you. Good response rpavich. I trust your cobwebs have gone away a long time ago.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

[quote=frangeo]

Thank you!

My battle now is laziness, and experience...I have a lot of the former, and not a lot of the latter! :)

Michael O' Loc: Midwest right now

Rpavich has it right, and many below point out the values of using a non-camera meter to correctly assess the light, the purpose being to actually get a true measure of the available light so that you can then make decisions as to how you will photograph to use it properly to record your intended image; the purpose being to start with a known reading, INCIDENT light is the most meaningful, or in a sense "Accurate" measure from which to begin your determinations of whether you will add artificial fill light, from which exact angle you will shoot, whether you will use direct or possibly soft reflectors, whether and what lens filters you might use, f-stop and shutter speed,etc. etc. Reflected light is not as "pure" a reading from which to start your analysis. Reflected light can be the starting point, but once you use a "ping pong ball" incident light meter and become a bit practiced with it so that you can actually get true beginning readings, you will likely never again be quite so happy and trusting using reflected light meters or camera body metering, especially or at least on those special and somewhat complex shots where lighting becomes critical in your subject material treatment and interpretation. Intelligently used, you simply cannot be fooled by them in understanding what your camera will see -- as can happen with reflected light meters. Try 'em and you'll love them !
Michael O' ---- soccermick33@yahoo.com

Roger Hicks Loc: Aquitaine

Dear Michael,

And, of course, it helps you think about what light you are measuring.

Digital (and slide film) exposures are 'keyed' to the highlights, i.e. you give the maximum exposure you can without 'blowing' the highlights to a featureless white. The old name for incident metering, the 'artificial highlight method', gives the game away.

Negative film is however 'keyed' to the darkest area in which you want texture and detail. i.e. you give the minimum exposure you can without 'blocking up' the darkest areas (conventionally called the shadows) to a featureless black.

With an optimum subject brightness range (SBR -- http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps%20subject%20brightness%20range.html ) a meter should recommend the same exposure. With very long or very short SBRs, it's useful to have a good idea of why the meter says what it does, and whether to accept its recommendations uncritically or not.

Cheers,

R.