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Tiny Blossom stack
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Dec 20, 2015 12:06:14   #
LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field
 
EnglishBrenda wrote:
Your stack looks good to me including the white colour, your flower stacks always look good. I assume you used a rail for this with so many slices.
Just a question regarding problems attached to shooting the colour white. Whereas, normally it would be necessary to increase the aperture in order to stop the camera turning white to Middle Grey, would you do this when preparing a stack or would other factors come into play? Maybe, it could be done in pp.
Brenda: I always shoot my stacks at f/5.6. For this one, I shot way too many slices & so I stacked jpegs (it was still really slow). Because I didn't have a raw file I was unable to recover as much of the detail in the white. I moved the highlight tool to the max-- to recover what I could. Because my old rail had no scale to measure the incremental movements, I always guessed. Because of this I got into a habit of over-shooting the number for my stacks. I was already under-exposed by one stopÂ… but that wasn't enough for jpeg.

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Dec 20, 2015 12:11:00   #
LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field
 
Bozsik wrote:
I agree with you. I think it is increased by the use of electronic flash as well. You did well. Using a softbox seems to help.
Thanks, David. I think it was also the position of the speedlight, or rather I know it was. For this experiment, the speedlight with softbox was mounted on the hot-shoe. A careful placement of the light source would have improved the quality of the lighting and not washed out any remaining detail. I'm trying now to nail down what kind of incremental movements are necessary at various magnifications. 30% overlap toward the macro end seems to be ideal.

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Dec 20, 2015 14:23:08   #
EnglishBrenda Loc: Kent, England
 
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
Brenda: I always shoot my stacks at f/5.6. For this one, I shot way too many slices & so I stacked jpegs (it was still really slow). Because I didn't have a raw file I was unable to recover as much of the detail in the white. I moved the highlight tool to the max-- to recover what I could. Because my old rail had no scale to measure the incremental movements, I always guessed. Because of this I got into a habit of over-shooting the number for my stacks. I was already under-exposed by one stopÂ… but that wasn't enough for jpeg.
Brenda: I always shoot my stacks at f/5.6. For t... (show quote)
Thanks Allen, this is very exacting and tricky work.

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Dec 21, 2015 07:05:56   #
martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida
 
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
P stack. Do you have a recommendation? I think I chose the P stack based on something I read.
P-Map works for me as well. It's a happy medium the amount of stacks. This turned out Very well Allen, my only complaint is the amount of noise in the background. Even at ISO100 Zerene will stack all of the noise together. I always use a single photo in my blurred background to illuminate the noise surrounding the final frame. It's the shadows the suffer the worst.
PS I just read you were under exposed by one stop, that explains the noise.. Damn It Allen....:-P

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Dec 21, 2015 10:11:59   #
LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field
 
martinfisherphoto wrote:
P-Map works for me as well. It's a happy medium the amount of stacks. This turned out Very well Allen, my only complaint is the amount of noise in the background. Even at ISO100 Zerene will stack all of the noise together. I always use a single photo in my blurred background to illuminate the noise surrounding the final frame. It's the shadows the suffer the worst.
PS I just read you were under exposed by one stop, that explains the noise.. Damn It Allen....:-P
Prior shoot setting...
:oops: :oops:

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