Focusing on Eyes
Apr 13, 2012 20:01:38 #
I know when doing portraits i am to focus on eyes. How does that exactly work if there is just one focus point. You have 2 eyes. I know this sounds silly but do i need to focus right above the nose?
Apr 13, 2012 20:06:42 #
generally speaking yep. if the face is quartering away use a smaller aperture (f8/f11) for added depth of field and focus the same way .
Apr 13, 2012 20:12:12 #
You can focus on an eye, then keeping the shutter button pressed half way, re-compose then shoot.
Apr 13, 2012 20:17:06 #
Apr 13, 2012 20:18:54 #
If I am shooting f/1.8 or wider, and the face is not square to the camera, I focus on the eye that is closer to me.
At f/1.2 or f/1.4, focusing above the nose softens both eyes which looks less "right" to me than having one eye sharply focused and the other one soft.
At f/1.2 or f/1.4, focusing above the nose softens both eyes which looks less "right" to me than having one eye sharply focused and the other one soft.
Apr 13, 2012 20:23:15 #
Slight shift to center of face or whatever you want at center of shot (assuming you are using the center-most focal point).
Apr 13, 2012 22:52:14 #
You focus on the eye closest to the camera. Be mindful of your depth of field, which is a function of your f-stop and how close you are to your subject (that varies with the focal length of the lens being used).
When you focus on the close eye, depress your shutter button down half way to lock the focus point/plane and then compose the shot without moving closer or farther from your subject. . .take the shot. The reason that you focus on the close eye is that depth of field generally works on the following ratio: one-third in front of the actual focus point; and, two-thirds behind the actual focus point.
Being real close to your subject and shooting your lens wide open will not work. You will likely need to stop down to a smaller lens opening to get both eyes within the depth of field.
When you focus on the close eye, depress your shutter button down half way to lock the focus point/plane and then compose the shot without moving closer or farther from your subject. . .take the shot. The reason that you focus on the close eye is that depth of field generally works on the following ratio: one-third in front of the actual focus point; and, two-thirds behind the actual focus point.
Being real close to your subject and shooting your lens wide open will not work. You will likely need to stop down to a smaller lens opening to get both eyes within the depth of field.
Apr 14, 2012 08:13:34 #
If the face is the emphasis of your photo, focus on the bridge of the nose. Depending on your lens aperture,the eyes and everything important on the face will be in focus,
Apr 14, 2012 08:52:54 #
snowbear wrote:
You can focus on an eye, then keeping the shutter button pressed half way, re-compose then shoot.
This would assume that you are using auto focus? Holding the button halfway, I mean.
Apr 14, 2012 09:08:53 #
dblackard wrote:
I know when doing portraits i am to focus on eyes. How does that exactly work if there is just one focus point. You have 2 eyes. I know this sounds silly but do i need to focus right above the nose?
I rarely.....in fact, never pose someone square to the camera. One eye is always closer to the camera, I focus on that. Aperture settings can control the depth of field assuring that the far eye is also in focus if that is what you want.
Apr 14, 2012 09:34:16 #
As stated focus on the eye closest to the camera.
Do NOT focus on the bridge of the nose, there is not enough contrast there for the auto focus to lock onto and you might end up with a soft image. The corner of the closest to the camera will have enough contrast for the auto focus to grab a great focus and keep it.
Also mentioned was recomping your shot, focus on the eye, and then move your camera (keeping care not to move your DOF), You can push the shutter half way down if that is the way you gain focus, I personally use BBF (Back Button Focus), I like it more than using the shutter button.
Do NOT focus on the bridge of the nose, there is not enough contrast there for the auto focus to lock onto and you might end up with a soft image. The corner of the closest to the camera will have enough contrast for the auto focus to grab a great focus and keep it.
Also mentioned was recomping your shot, focus on the eye, and then move your camera (keeping care not to move your DOF), You can push the shutter half way down if that is the way you gain focus, I personally use BBF (Back Button Focus), I like it more than using the shutter button.
Apr 14, 2012 10:08:58 #
Apr 14, 2012 10:24:25 #
jerryc41 wrote:
If your camera has a DOF preview button, that can be useful.
My eyes are so bad, even with a loupe, I can't see well enough using the preview. I wish I could, AGE did it....plus spending far too much time in PS.
I use a Hoodman loupe and shoot with the mirror up in all portraits.....plus we use OnOne Remote and can see the results (in studio) immediately shooting tethered is another option.
This is just my personal opinion, but I pose men and women the same, drop the shoulder closest to the camera, use short light, focus on the near eye. Art F/5.6 if the closest eye is in focus, the rest of the face is nearly so.
When on location I use a 7 inch HD monitor that fits to the tripod with the camera plugs into the HDMI slot........It comes from
http://lcd4video.com/
Just started using this with the D4 and D800 cameras.
Apr 14, 2012 10:39:57 #
nikonshooter wrote:
When on location I use a 7 inch HD monitor that fits to the tripod with the camera plugs into the HDMI slot........It comes from http://lcd4video.com/
Just started using this with the D4 and D800 cameras.
Just started using this with the D4 and D800 cameras.
That looks like a great device, especially for video.
Apr 14, 2012 10:42:47 #
jerryc41 wrote:
That looks like a great device, especially for video.
nikonshooter wrote:
When on location I use a 7 inch HD monitor that fits to the tripod with the camera plugs into the HDMI slot........It comes from http://lcd4video.com/
Just started using this with the D4 and D800 cameras.
Just started using this with the D4 and D800 cameras.
That looks like a great device, especially for video.
Not a lot of experience yet but so for so good. We bought it for the D3s cameras and didn't unbox it until we got the D4 cameras. I believe it WAS specifically developed for the video use.
Well, I guess you guys are going to have to do without me. I am heading to Boone NC to teach a workshop on shooting waterfalls, Blueridge (smokey) mountains, night photography, and panos. Be back Thursday of next week.
Don't make anyone mad until I return
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