JBTaylor Loc: In hiding again

I will be taking pictures in a few weeks in a church with no white ceilings or walls to bounce flash off of. I'll have two types of situations. Posed shots in a fixed location and shots on the go. I'm going to take some test shots as soon as possible ahead of time but I interested in what works for others under these conditions.

For on the go shots, I have usually bounced or if no ceiling, went available light with my 50mm. I'm thinking to use a strobo frame to get the flash further off axis and use some kind of diffusion. What works for others?

For the posed shots, I have studio flash equipment but I don't have time to get carried away with setup. I have seen a single softbox used before mounted high and feathered over the group. I will have a lot of glasses wearers in my group. I could do two lights but I'm trying not to get carried away but want to do what it takes to get good shots. What do other used and how much time do you allow for setup?

14kphotog Loc: Marietta, Ohio

For on the go shots use a flash off camera, for the posed shots use 1 strobe high on a stand and bounce it off a large umbrella, white or silver. Get to church early, set up strobe, and take some test shots or meter for strobe. Remember where stand was set. Put strobe away in a corner, unfold umbrella. Takes less than 1 minute to reset up.

Steven Loc: So. Milwaukee, WI.

What I do to remember exactly where my stand-umbrella-flash was when I measured my light was to take a little masking tape with me and take some strips and put it around two of the leg pads on the floor. But always ask first for permission to do so. Another thing I did, when I knew it was going to be one of those "tricky" spaces (like in a really small church) was go to the rehearsal and arrive alittle early and run a test or two. The people will be in there places, really not even noticing your gear, and you can take a number of test shots that way.

JBTaylor Loc: In hiding again

Thanks 14kphotog and Steven. I really appreciate the tips.

dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida

JB, You already have good advice on "on the go" photos and posed. For large groups of individuals "look who was here" shots the situation is surly different. Some time ago in UHH forum there was a case study presented with photos. The situation was a group like a class reunion where the group was spread out and multi layers deep. Rather than a great explosion of lite he used multi small slave flashes. The photographer and the flashes were on a balcony. By spreading out the multi and small light sources the large group was evenly and gently (not harsh lighting) bathed in light. Looked good. Slave flashes can be purchased at low cost.

Gary Truchelut Loc: Coldspring, TX

I use a Gary Fong light sphere for an on flash diffuser. It works great when aimed up and gives a nice soft light over a wide area.
You can hand hold the flash or put it on a stand or mount to camera.

dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida

JBT stated the following shoot cite limitations = "church with no white ceilings or walls to bounce flash off of. I'll have two types of situations. Posed shots in a fixed location and shots on the go."

Flash frames are quite standard, but for wider spread or additional lighting there is a quick and easy carry-around "Flash-On'a-Stick". It can be quickly made using 1/4 dowel stick with 1/4 20 "insert threads" and short stub 1/4-20 stub to mount the flash on. I used a cheap $-Tree miniature tripod disassembled and epoxied on stick. This allows for aiming also allows me to use slave with a shoe mount and no 1/4-20 thread hole. Think of the Flash-On'a-Stick as a 3' long light weight wooden mono-pod.

The virtue is that it can be used to elevate or to put to the far left of the subjects. Of course, it can be used with a diffuser as can any flash. Readers-remember, no white ceiling or walls to bounce flash off of.

JBTaylor Loc: In hiding again

Thanks, I have a wooden stick and a ball joint flash mount that attaches to it. Not sure what all I'll settle on but I appreciate the ideas.

CaptainC Loc: Colorado, south of Denver

OK - here is what can work. First, if you use more than one flash with groups, you need to be very careful of creating shadows.
Use one light DIRECTLY over the lens and higher. 36 inches or more above.
If you have studio strobes, that should be plenty of power. An umbrella should work because it spreads light better than a softbox. You could even use a bare bulb for this.

With the light directly over the lens, there will be NO shadows.
Remember the inverse square law: the farther away the light is, the more even will be the exposure front to back if the group is in multiple rows.
I f the group is really wide, this might not work, but for most wedding parties it should be fine.
I learned this trick from Clay Blackmore and it works great for groups when you do not have a lot of setup time or space.

dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida

Indeed CaptainC, Great setup and indeed I would prefer yours to my flash on a stick. But with todays short span of patients we may not have the luxury of using a sophisticated setup, or may not own or afford or have room in our downsized condos.

In such a case the low end would be to use multi, I have 6, low output slaves which added together can be quickly elevated with 7' PVC (joined 3.5') 1/2" PVC pipes or better yet, have kids hold up flash on a stick.

Game is to minimize and be ninja quick. Normally I only use two auxiliary for like a wedding group and they have small concrete filled buckets fitted with PVC screw fittings as mounts.

JBTaylor Loc: In hiding again

Thanks CaptainC. I am feeling better in planning to use one studio strobe high over camera setup for the posed shots for all of the reasons you cited. I hadn't really considered not using an umbrella but will include that in my test shots. I'm hoping that with planning and marking the spot ahead of time, I can be setup in a couple of minutes.

JBTaylor Loc: In hiding again

dpullum, I hear you on the space (and cost) issue with studio equipment. I realized a few days ago that I could probably pack a dozen shoe mounted flashes in the space of one studio strobe and that's not even counting the stands and accessories.

I like your ingenuity with the PVC setup. I have a background frame made out of it but went too thick to make sure it was stiff enough. Most recently, I have used 1/2 steel conduit for a six foot cross bar and it worked better than I expected.

dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida

OK, JB did a little Goggling ,,, most promising is foam in the 1/2" PVC... in the blog the problem with curing was brought up... indeed, the ends would cure but not the center, because the foam is moisture cured from moisture in the air.

However, this chemist/jackleg can find a way. Take a 2.5' (1/4 of a 10' length). Drill 4 evenly spaced 1/4" holes one inch from the end. Place a cap on one end with a hole drilled to accommodate the caned foam (eg GreatStufff) nozzle. The pipe has 4 cotton sash cord. Thus when the pipe is filled and the ends hardened, perhaps an hour. To cure the inner portion put the pipes in the tub of water of water when your wife takes a bath (Men usually only shower). The wicking action of the cordage will bring moisture to the foam, which we all know is a blocked isocyanate which cross-links with the presents of water.

The reason for not wetting the cordage first is that it may moisten the pipe and prevent bonding. Let me know how it turns out... generally my mind experiments are fairly good.. at least a good start. I expect that once fully cured the foam filled 1/2 pipe will be significantly stiffer than unfilled pipe.