big-guy
Loc: Peterborough Ontario Canada
Rule of thumb #1, if you are using a lens with the max focal length of 300 mm then applying the reciprocal rule will give you 1/300 as your minimum hand held shutter speed. Much better to use even higher shutter speeds such as 1/500 or 1/1000.
Rule of thumb #2, if shooting scenes that involve moving objects then shutter priority is your go to tool. If nothing in the scene is moving, or moving very slow then aperture priority will do the job.
Rule of thumb #3, shoot, ask, learn and repeat.
MWojton wrote:
Thanks Nikonian and Dun, and to all for your input.
BTW, I was using 1 focus point for those shots. Picture #1 is clearer than the others. Shutter speed for #1 was 1/320 vs 1/200 for #2 and #3. Is that enough change to make a difference?
If you can try to keep you shutter speed @ 1/500, some actions may require a speed of 1/1000 to keep the player in focus i.e a header shot if you wish to stop the action and get the player's head striking the ball. I will take a look at #2 and #3 to see if the advice I have given might make a difference and and reply here
MWojton wrote:
Here is a small sampling of some photos from a soccer game. I was sitting about 25 rows up. The first one is relatively sharp and I posted that for comparison. I was using a Nikon 3100 with a Nikon 55-300 lens- handheld. I'm not sure if it's the:
A) camera
B) lens
C) shutter speed
D) Incorrect focus point
E) Other/combo of the above.
In #2 and #3, as you can see, the players are not moving very quickly, so I think shutter speed would not be a factor.
Its frustrating taking a bunch of shots at a game to have only a few look good. I'm just trying to learn.
Thanks for your input.
Here is a small sampling of some photos from a soc... (
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Opanda tells me your shutter was at 1/200, not fast enough for this kind of action. 1/500 or even 1/1000 would do much better.
You state about being frustrated , have you ever been at a sports venue that there was pros shooting . Most of them have their cameras to shoot in burst ,as out of 5 or 7 they are pretty sure to get at least one..Also set your ISO at 300 to 400. If I was shooting one particular person I would set my focus as center weight. if you let the camera decide where to focus you could miss the shot.
MWojton wrote:
Here is a small sampling of some photos from a soccer game. I was sitting about 25 rows up. The first one is relatively sharp and I posted that for comparison. I was using a Nikon 3100 with a Nikon 55-300 lens- handheld. I'm not sure if it's the:
A) camera
B) lens
C) shutter speed
D) Incorrect focus point
E) Other/combo of the above.
In #2 and #3, as you can see, the players are not moving very quickly, so I think shutter speed would not be a factor.
Its frustrating taking a bunch of shots at a game to have only a few look good. I'm just trying to learn.
Thanks for your input.
Here is a small sampling of some photos from a soc... (
show quote)
25 rows up in the stands with a 55-300mm lens. . . I think ya did pretty good!!!!
In addition to the somewhat conflicting advice already posted, I'll suggest getting closer to the action! Try for the first row in the stands! Wrangle a way to get on the field! Well, the sidelines anyway.
Shoot MORE pix! Set your camera to a 'burst' mode, use 1-point autofocus, concentrate on maybe 1 or 2 players. Learn from your 'boo-boos.' Maybe try panning with your subjects as they move. Keep in mind that a little bit of subject movement can be good - it 'shows action.' Accept the fact that you'll get a LOT of rejects & that 'electrons are cheap.'
Good luck! Post MORE pix.
Dun1 wrote:
I would venture to say that the best method for capturing sports photos is to use a shutter speed of no less than 1/500th to stop action. If you wish to get a shot of a player as he kicks the ball and stop the action of the ball as it kicked by the player 1/500 may not be fast enough, you may opt to use 1/1000 to make sure you get the shot.
Your ISO needs to be set high enough to allow for no less then 1/500
Your lens should be at the lowest number possible i.e. 5.6, if you wish to give more detail to other players versus one player try using F 8.
Control your focus points or points try using a single focus point usually at the center point on the players chest.
The majority of sports shots I shoot are shot in the aperture priority mode set the aperture at a wide enough lens opening with your ISO set high enough to focus on the a spot where the action is taking place. If you shoot from the stands you ability to get shots that capture and stop the action will be difficult you can get as much of the action in the center of your camera frame and then crop the image to eliminate the players that are not involved.
I would venture to say that the best method for ca... (
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HUH?? First you tell the OP "to use a shutter speed of no less than 1/500th to stop action" then you say "1/500 may not be fast enough" and follow that up with "use 1/1000 to make sure you get the shot." How can a shutter speed be faster than 1/500 and still be not less that 1/500? I'm really confused.
twowindsbear wrote:
HUH?? First you tell the OP "to use a shutter speed of no less than 1/500th to stop action" then you say "1/500 may not be fast enough" and follow that up with "use 1/1000 to make sure you get the shot." How can a shutter speed be faster than 1/500 and still be not less that 1/500? I'm really confused.
1/500 is a slower shutter speed than 1/1000th. We would also say it is "less" shutter speed than 1/1000.
Now, when talking about fractions, not about shutter speeds, clearly 1/1000 is "less" than 1/500. Do not confuse the two.
So, when he said "no less than 1/500" he meant shutter speed of 1/500 or faster, not "use a fraction no less than 1/500"
twowindsbear wrote:
HUH?? First you tell the OP "to use a shutter speed of no less than 1/500th to stop action" then you say "1/500 may not be fast enough" and follow that up with "use 1/1000 to make sure you get the shot." How can a shutter speed be faster than 1/500 and still be not less that 1/500? I'm really confused.
In most instances 1/500 is the minimum required to stop action. There are instances where 1/500 may not be sufficient enough to get certain shots. In his instance a foot making contact with a ball may require at 1/1000 to stop the action and get both the foot and the ball in focus in the frame.
Another shot that is difficult to get is the shot in baseball where the bat is striking the ball known in sports shooting circles as the BOB (Bat on the Ball). To get that shot the shutter speed has to be at least or no less than 1,000, conversely, getting a shot that stops and action and captures the moment a player is making a perfect header shot, might no less than 1,000. The same thing holds true to capture the shot where the baseball is being released from the pitcher's finger tips, 1/500 may not stop the action and get the pitcher's hand, and the action as it is released and the ball and the pitcher's hand are both in sharp focus and the action is stopped.
I hope this might keep you or the OP had or has from being confused.
As the saying goes you mileage may vary according to your shooting settings.
Violameister wrote:
1/500 is a slower shutter speed than 1/1000th. We would also say it is "less" shutter speed than 1/1000.
Now, when talking about fractions, not about shutter speeds, clearly 1/1000 is "less" than 1/500. Do not confuse the two.
So, when he said "no less than 1/500" he meant shutter speed of 1/500 or faster, not "use a fraction no less than 1/500"
Imprecision in our terminology has contributed to this confusion, a more precise term is "shutter duration". The shutter opens and then it closes. The speed with which the shutter mechanism performs these two distinct actions is actually the same; it's the time between that we have come to refer to as "shutter speed".
LoneRangeFinder wrote:
Imprecision in our terminology has contributed to this confusion, a more precise term is "shutter duration". The shutter opens and then it closes. The speed with which the shutter mechanism performs these two distinct actions is actually the same; it's the time between that we have come to refer to as "shutter speed".
Thank you. That is what I was planning to say, but got sidetracked by old age...
If your camera can do back button focusing, that would help too in Continuous mode. It would have to be set up in your menu if it's available.
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