MMC Loc: Brooklyn NY

My question is to Hog members who have expirience using focus rail. Are you using focus rail for stackin photos? If not when and for what are you using it?

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

Primarily focus stacking. On rare occasion, I will do a single shot macro/closeup and use the rail to fine tune the composition.

Currently, however, I use mine less and less as I've gone to using a Manfrotto 401 Jr tripod head, which has geared adjustments, making the fine-tuning a lot easier. I've also gravitated toward tethering my lap top and using Helicon Remote to collect files for focus stacking.

MMC Loc: Brooklyn NY

Thanks for your reply.

Apaflo Loc: Anchorage, Alaska

I have multiple different focus rails.

An older 4-way slider doesn't get used that much anymore, but was never used for stacking and is "permanently" attached to a heavy duty tripod that I use only indoor for macro work.

I've got a couple Vivitar macro rails that work with old Vivitar bellows. These are mostly used just for fun, and never for stacking.

I have a motorized 8" StackShot rail that is used for focus stacking and these days for most other focus rail needs too. It is normally mounted on a rather large macro bench rail. But I've also adapted it to a "Groofwin Pod", made by Leonard Rue Enterprises. See http://www.rue.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4_5&products_id=6

I've had the Leonard Rue Enterprises device for years, and find it just extremely useful for taking pictures on the Arctic Tundra, where nothing is higher than a few inches. It always worked well with other focus rails and with ballheads, but using a motorized rail and tethering the camera too is just super delightful (for an old man who is not at all nimble anymore).

I also have another unconventional "focus rail" that is about 18" long, made with "Follow Focus" parts bought on eBay. I haven't really used it past just putting it together and seeing that it worked.

MMC Loc: Brooklyn NY

Thanks for your reply.

martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida

Please share your stacked macro photos with us..

A-PeeR Loc: Houston, Texas

Yes, I use rails, technically linear stages, to focus stack in the field and on tabletop setups. Why do you ask?

MMC Loc: Brooklyn NY

I did not shoot macro and close up often, and did not have macro lens, extension tubes and focusing rail. Now I have Nikon 105 mm lens, waiting extension tubes /I already paid and they will be delivered soon. I decided to make DIY focusing rail and I made it. I thought that it will be good for focus stacking close up pictures. I tried it. It is working but result is not so good. I googled this problem and found this article http://zerenesystems.com/cms/stacker/docs/troubleshooting/ringversusrail

A-PeeR Loc: Houston, Texas

Yes, for stacking closeups and macros up to ~1:1 using the focus ring or tethered software to move through the focal planes can be the optimal solution. Once I start pushing past 1:1 I find a linear stage to be more accurate.

A-PeeR Loc: Houston, Texas

As far as the issues with your rail, we would need to see the stack in question and a photo of your rig to better help you troubleshoot the problem..

MMC Loc: Brooklyn NY

A-PeeR, Thank you for your reply. I did not have pictures of my rig and took few pictures right now.

Stacked picture.

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My rig

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My rail #1

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My rail #2

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My rail #3

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My rail #4

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A-PeeR Loc: Houston, Texas

Ingenious solution for a focusing/stacking rail. Based on personal experiences with DIY rigs, accuracy is going to depend on how square the rails are, how much vertical and horizontal play is in the assembly, how precise, accurate and repeatable the screw movement is and how high your personal patience threshold is. My initial thought is with some practice, you have the makings of a workable rig for closeup photography and perhaps consistent 1:1. I don’t think you are going to find it an easily repeatable exercise once you try to push the rig into 2:1 and greater. If it were my rig I’d certainly be using it to find out where the weaknesses are. I suspect the screw assembly to be the weak link. I do think it can be improved with a lead screw to drive the sled. This isn’t a criticism, rather initial thoughts based on three years of tinkering with stacking, from DIY copy stand solutions, various lab grade linear stages, to high precision microscope blocks.

Looking at your photograph, I’d say it’s quite good for f/29. I do think you will see noticeable improvement with a wider aperture. One of the fundamental ideas behind stacking is to capture images at optimal aperture and stack the individual frames together. Looking at the MTF charts of the Nikon 105mm below optimal aperture for the lens is f/4-f/5.6 with f/8 not far behind.

Now is the time to try out your rig. Shoot a static subject, like the flower in your post, at f/8. Start at the forward most point of interest take a shot. Move the rig forward to the next focal plane, be sure to slightly overlap the previous frame, and take the next shot. Rinse, lather repeat until you have captured the portions of the subject you want in focus. Then use a program like Zerene, Helicon, Photoshop, or CombineZP to stack the images together. If you get stumped along the way, most likely, post questions to this thread and someone will chime in and help you. We have many competent stackers in the group.

Good luck and I look forward to following your progress.

MTF50 chart for Nikkor 105G

MMC Loc: Brooklyn NY

Thank you very much for your time, your analysis and advice. I will try tomorrow using apertures f/5.6 and f/8. Good night.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

Agree with William here. That's a pretty ambitious DIY rail. I feel, however, that the ability to do very small incremental movements that can be controlled and repeated is essential to this process.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

Yes, please.