help with sharp focusing
Jun 3, 2015 17:44:17 #
lydiabpinkham
Loc: Arlington, Tx
this shot was taken with studio lights, iso 200, f/16, 16-300 @18mm
1/20 ss.. i've also tried 1/30 1/60
i want the black tip to be focus sharp and i can't get it focused, I would appreciate any suggestions,
1/20 ss.. i've also tried 1/30 1/60
i want the black tip to be focus sharp and i can't get it focused, I would appreciate any suggestions,
Cane tip
Jun 3, 2015 18:05:31 #
reload that picture and check the store box so that we can download the full size and see what you are talking about.
you can also select edit -> add attachment -> store ->send
you can also select edit -> add attachment -> store ->send
Jun 4, 2015 10:11:15 #
Jun 4, 2015 10:37:45 #
lydiabpinkham wrote:
thanks, here is the raw image
i appreciate your help
i appreciate your help
Ok. Used LR 5.7
applied camera and lens correction
removed chromatic aberration
sharpened to ~75
adj WB
Adj Exp
added clarity+10
Vibrance +5
Jun 4, 2015 10:50:45 #
lydiabpinkham
Loc: Arlington, Tx
thank you so much, i never would have known to do those things
would you have used different camera settings
would you have used different camera settings
Jun 4, 2015 10:56:53 #
lydiabpinkham wrote:
thank you so much, i never would have known to do those things
would you have used different camera settings
would you have used different camera settings
You are welcome.
Yes I would have used a more open aperture because DoF is not a factor in this type of shot, say at least F5.6(That would bring up your shutter speed.) which would also add some blur to the background. For the same reason I would also have moved the object further away from the backdrop. If you couldn't get the exposure just right then adj your exp comp on the camera.
btw Do you still sell your 'Elixir for Ladies' laced with laudanum? :XD:
Jun 4, 2015 13:13:37 #
The subject isn't going to move much, so if you're using a tripod you should be able to forget about shutter speed, allowing you to use ISO 100. Even at ISO 200 there's a bit of noise showing up (cameras from the same era as the D3100 were prone to ISO noise).
The chances are that your lens's sweet spot is in the region of f/8. After that, all you need to worry about is making sure that the camera is focussing on the subject and not on the background.
If you're doing this in any sort of professional or commercial context and you have significant amounts of it to do in the future, it might be worth thinking about a better lens. A lens with as much zoom as an 18-300 will not be as good IQ-wise as one with less zoom (something in the region of 18-50 or 70). Super-zoom lenses tend to be softer (especially at the extremes of zoom) and more prone to fringing.
I would also recommend more even lighting. That can be sorted to a certain extent in PP, but it's always better to get it right at the time of capture.
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The chances are that your lens's sweet spot is in the region of f/8. After that, all you need to worry about is making sure that the camera is focussing on the subject and not on the background.
If you're doing this in any sort of professional or commercial context and you have significant amounts of it to do in the future, it might be worth thinking about a better lens. A lens with as much zoom as an 18-300 will not be as good IQ-wise as one with less zoom (something in the region of 18-50 or 70). Super-zoom lenses tend to be softer (especially at the extremes of zoom) and more prone to fringing.
I would also recommend more even lighting. That can be sorted to a certain extent in PP, but it's always better to get it right at the time of capture.
-
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