Northlander wrote:
1: Could a photographer with a lot more experience than I, have photographed these Zorb balls without those glare spots being so obvious - under the same conditions, of course - 9.30am brilliant sun and cloudless sky.
Under the same conditions, no. The sun is there,and the reflections are going to exist.
But there are some things that could be done. The most significant would be to reduce the contrast and lower the brightness in the RAW conversion process. It could be that the actual blown out highlights are indeed overexposed and clipped in the raw data, but I doubt it. By changing the gamma curve during the raw conversion process, rather than trying it on these JPEG's, a much better job can be done. Instead of blown out specular reflections it might be made to look just as the normally brighter areas of a texture illuminated with bright light.
Northlander wrote:
2: Can those glares be edited out? (I have tried)
I suppose each could be cloned out, but I doubt it would look better, and I'm sure it would be very tedious work.
Northlander wrote:
3: I have attempted to lighten the boy's face, but I found it difficult without adding light to the complete image. Can this be done (face only) successfully?
That is actually fairly easy. I thought that working on the entire boy, rather than just the face, provide a more natural looking result.
Northlander wrote:
My 2nd image is one that I have "played with" - just for fun. I have removed the flag pole from the centre of the image and added an 'Easter Addition'
Comments and/or advice would be appreciated.
Camera: Nikon 600; lense Nikor 24-120mm
That is an excellent camera for that type of photograph. The D600 gets its highest dynamic range at ISO 100, and is less by more than one full fstop at ISO 250 used for that photograph. When shooting in bright sunlight, because it has so much contrast, it is best to use ISO 100 if at all possible. That would make for nicer results in this image for the reflections on the globes and when the boy's face is pulled up out of the shadows.
One technique that would help is exposure bracketing. Set the camera to shoot continuous, set the limit to 3 shots per burst, and have it shoot in 1/2 stop increments. For every shot, press the shutter release and let it go! You'll later be able to pick the best exposure and process only one of the three shot burst.
Below is a sort of weird edit that I did on you image. But it would really be fun to see what can be done with the original RAW file! If you are willing, send me a PM and I'll set up an FTP login on my web site where you can upload it.