Tom DePuy Loc: Waxhaw, N.C.

I think this flower would be a perfect subject for focus stacking. Being new to macro and still trying to grasp on it, not ready jump into stacking yet, but I was wondering, my camera is a Nikon d3100 and it has eleven focus points, does that mean then that I would only be capable of only shooting a stack of eleven??

(Download)

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

No. If you are physically moving camera/lens towards subject between photographs, you do not want the focus distance to change. If you are slightly changing the focus distance between photographs, the camera/lens remains stationary, and you will manually change focus distance between photographs by minutely turning the lens focus collar.

Those of us who use Auto-Focus for normal single-image macro capture, usually use small central focus spot.

Tom DePuy Loc: Waxhaw, N.C.

Okay, so then you don't use the focus points?

oldtigger Loc: Roanoke Virginia-USA

the number of focus points is immaterial because you are going to manually focus at xx number of different distances into your subject. Each shot focused further into your subject and then stacked together.

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

The multiple focus points on modern DSLRs is to assist the software to try to get as deep a DoF as possible, so that much of subject is in focus (full Auto). In my opinion, this is counter-productive. I want to select the aperture, the shutter duration, and the ISO for best exposure (Manual).

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

Notice on your flower image that the closest part of flower (petals along edges) are in focus, but not the center. Even at f/16, a 105mm macro lens has a very narrow DoF. Is this image manually focused, and on which part of flower?
Exif info:
Camera Model: NIKON D3100
Image Date: 2015-02-15
Focal Length: 105.0mm
Aperture: ƒ/16.0
Exposure Time: 0.0050 s (1/200-sec)
ISO equiv: 200
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Spot
Exposure: Manual
Exposure Mode: Manual
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: Yes

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

I sometimes use the single point focus point to establish initial focus when preparing to do a stack. I then switch the lens to M-F and then use a focus-rail to manually adjust the focus point for each subsequent exposure. Focus points actually have nothing to do with the number of stacks. The number of stacks required is determined by the aperture used, minimum working distance, and magnification. Determining the number required can be either a visual process or an automated process using StackShot or a similar device. I don't have this, so I cannot comment on the process & I rarely know how many will be required when I start--although I do have a general idea

You CAN use A-F to stack images, but not with a focusing rail. I do some focus-stacking (see the feather stacks in this forum) tethered to my computer. This process controls the camera functions via the computer and requires A-F to work. It differs from the focusing rail approach because a static distance to subject is maintained while the focusing ring is utilized to adjust the portion of the image in critical focus. The important thing with either approach is to adequately overlap the parts of the image "in focus". Otherwise you get OoF areas known as "banding."

If I was starting out, I would use a focusing rail and dedicated stacking software such as Zerene or Helicon Focus.