Iduno Loc: Near Tampa Florida

I'm finding flash tough to learn. So this weekend I will study, shoot, study, shoot some more. I'll first understand how my built in works, then a couple on camera flashes that I have, then taking them off camera and firing them remotely.

If I can learn how to make them all fire when and how I want them to then I can worry about where to place them for the best effect.

Suggestions on how to get good at this are welcome. I'm using my camera's manual (T3i) and some U Tube videos I've downloaded. The flash manuals are translated from Chinese and tough for me to follow. My flashes are a Yongnu YN565EX and a Vivitar DF-383-CAN. Both are models for my Canon camera.

Patw28 Loc: PORT JERVIS, NY

I went to SEARCH at the top of this screen and searched for 'ebooks flash. Got some fantastic hits.

lesdmd Loc: Middleton Wi via N.Y.C. & Cleveland

[quote=Iduno]I'm finding flash tough to learn. So this weekend I will study, shoot, study, shoot some more. I'll first understand how my built in works, then a couple on camera flashes that I have, then taking them off camera and firing them remotely.

I think you have the sequencing correct, but the time frame may be a bit unrealistic. Shooting with flash is a difficult skill to acquire, especially if the goal is subtlety rather than simply enough light to see something. Think of your flash(es) as "adding in dabs of light". More is not necessarily better, obvious shadows are often not appreciated. Keep experimenting until you can reproduce results that you like.

alksaki Loc: Fresno, CA

I agree with lesdmd. Using flash is difficult to learn in a day. First, understand the camera menu features for the built-in and remote flashes. Get to know the features/capabilities of the hot-shoe and remotes.

Think of one shot as two captures. One using the ambient light and the second adding flash light. Optional: simple light meter to measure the light reaching your subject. A good book or two real helps here. Then, practice, practice, practice.

With any flash, including the built-in, the light must reach the subject. The output GN number divided by the f/stop is the maximum reach for the shot. The T3i GN is 43 at ISO100. Shooting at f/8 = 5ft distance to subject. at ISO400 f/8, distance=10ft. The Yongnu claims GN165 but w/105mm lens. If using a 50mm lens it will be less. A light meter will tell you the real output.

When you get to the session using remotes, set your baseline lighting on the subject with just one light at a time. It will be easier to see your lighting ratios. Adjust from baseline if the combined light is not what you want.

Have fun!

wireman8 Loc: Toledo, Ohio

I'd visit the strobist website, lots of good information there on OCF very infomative site.

budrakey

One word (well actually two) The Strobist

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

I subscribe to his newsletter and have learned a lot.

alksaki Loc: Fresno, CA

wireman8 and budrakey is right about The Strobist. Here is a URL for Strobist Lighting 101:

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

I have a PDF version of what's in Lighting 101. If any one wants it, please request it by sending an email to al@YourRacePhotos.net

And a link to Lighting 102:
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/06/lighting-102-introduction.html

DavidT Loc: Maryland

This is an amazing coincidence! I just spent all day yesterday experimenting with my new Yongnuo YN560 flashes and old Vivitar 283 flashes (with wireless flash triggers on the Vivitars) to get them to fire together and sync with the camera. I have a Canon 5D and Panasonic Lumix GF-1 cameras.

The most important thing I learned was that you need to have a flash on the camera hot-shoe to fire the off-camera flashes, AND
the on-camera flash must be set in MANUAL (not E-TTL). The built-in flash on the GF-1 would fire the off-camera flashes, but not in sync with the camera. It took a while to figure this out even though it was in the Yongnuo manual (not written in the best English).

I set the on-camera flashes (Canon Speedlite 430EX and Olympus FL-36R) to a small output value (~1/16) and bounced the flash so as not to add direct light to the subject. I will also note that I did my experiments inside not outdoors.

I hope this helps.

Iduno Loc: Near Tampa Florida

Great input. Thanks so much everyone.

DavidT - that's wild that we were traveling along parallel lines. Fill free to send me any updates as you move throught the learning curve. breeves@tampabay.rr.com. I'll do the same.

I've made some progress this weekend, but as all you'all (Florida expression) say, it's a process not a destination.

wlgoode Loc: Globe, AZ

Check this out for a world of help. You can get a Wein analog flash meter real cheap on ebay. These meters have been around for about 50 yrs and are super reliable. You might also want to check Instructables (online) and check out DIY flash diffusers. There is a ton of stuff that can be done on the cheap with good results.

alksaki Loc: Fresno, CA

This link at Orbis, shows how exposure settings affect the amount of ambient recorded, while the flash lighted subject stays the same: http://www.orbisflash.com/on-and-off-camera-flash-basics-part-1/