TriseyThePhotog

Hey everyone! I shoot with a Nikon D5100 & I'm highly interested in shooting studio photography. I recently asked a photographer who I thougt would be a good friend to me to teach me how to shoot studio photography (how to set up yor lighting, etc.) and he was such a a$$hole about it and told me to teach myself. I recently just moved back to Michigan, just got out the military (had two foot surgeries while in & two babies back-to-back) and I am highly interested in getting my photography business up off the ground.

My main goal right now is to build my own studio equipment kit from the ground up & play around to teach myself lighting technique. I do have a budget... Not to exceed $1,500-$2,000 all gear combined but what all is required for the best quality photos (moreso what's compatible with my camera)?

I'm interested in getting a speedlight, 1-2 lights (w/ softboxes), backdrops (which are best with light? Muslim or paper?) and what are those things that the camera "trigger" the lights to flash? The wireless transceivers and receivers? I'm interested in the brands and if you provide knockoff names that still work as great, that's fine as well.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Trisey, sorry your friend was not helpful. He seems to be insecure in his abilities, and would not want to train someone at the risk that the trainee may surpass his skills and steal work from him.

Anyway, there are 1000s of sites where you can lean what you want to know. I would start here:

http://www.strobist.blogspot.com/

Strobist is a site dedicated to using low cost speedlights, radio triggers, light stands, modifiers etc. Your budget is quite adequate for openers, but you will end up spending 2-3 times that in time. Hell, you could spend your entire budget on a single piece of equipment - your camera support.

Yongnuo and Nissin make good 3rd party speedlights. Yongnuo makes excellent triggers - both transceivers and transmitter-receiver type.

Iterfit, Lumopro - both have decent low cost stands.

Wescott, Lastolite, etc have nice softboxes, umbrellas, and other light modifiers - Lastolite has speedlight mounts that permit dual, triple and quad mounting to a single modifier. Can come in handy when you need more light than what you can get from a single speedlight.

Don't dismiss eBay- there are lots of things you can get there, used, to save some $$$.

As far as controlling light levels, there are many advocates of the Conon and Nikon ITTL systems. I am old school. I learned lighting with a flash meter and measuring tape, and just knowing how to meter a setting. Sekonic makes really good lightmeters for this purpose. Using a meter to set light ratios is going to be faster and more accurate than any iTTL system.

This is one writer's opinion, which I mostly agree with except for the Vello triggers (I tried them and didn't care for them) - his total cost was $1500.

http://nikonrumors.com/2012/03/28/guest-post-how-to-build-an-awesome-studio-on-a-budget-by-cary-jordan.aspx/

I hope this is helpful.

Bret Loc: Dayton Ohio

Hello Trisey and welcome to the UHH. I use 3 SB910 and the Vello pro series triggers..I gave up on IR triggers...outside day light problems...line of site.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

Maybe he was not such an asshole, because it is rather involved and will require a lot of learning and studying on your part, and it will take time. Your budget sounds too limited.

Capture48 Loc: Arizona

While your budget sounds somewhat limited you can get off brand speedlights as someone mentioned Yongnuo are a good beginning. The problem is most people begin with TTL capable speedlights and triggers. TTL capable is going to cost you more. Speedlights and triggers not capable of TTL are cheaper, but you have a steeper learning curve.

Just in case you don't know TTL means the camera is deciding for you how much light you need. Manual shooting with speedlights means you have to control 7 vatiables. But when you can shoot in manual, you will be able to shoot almost any scene you walk into.

Bottom line if you purchase NON-TTL speedlights and triggers you're committed to manual. You can't take a speedlight from Non-TTL to TTL. If you purchase TTL models, you can turn those to manual once you learn how to control the light. So purchase one TTL speedlight and shoot it two ways and spend a little more money up front. Or purchase NON-TTL models and spend less money but much harder to learn.

Clear as mud!

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

It's not really as hard as you are making it out to be. And TTL can be misinterpreted, just like the camera's metering can be misinterpreted - yielding unexpected results to the less knowledgeable.

It is a simple matter to set your exposure for the key light, and test fire each of the other lights - fill, rim, background and create your ratios as you need/want them to be. Having an understanding how light works will generally produce better, more consistent and in some cases, more creative solutions than any automatic system. Besides, the TTL systems can be just as much of a pain to get right in certain situations. I can set up a lighting scheme in about the same time using my knowledge and experience, as someone who relies entirely on a TTL system. Even taking into consideration that you can adjust TTL systems from the camera. The shooter is likely to develop more of a "feel" using a system that he/she has total control over.

It's a trade off - cost+convenience vs control.

I routinely scour eBay for older Sunpak speedlights - I currently have a collection of 12 lights that have a guide number of 120 or higher - which I paid - in total - not more than $200 for the whole lot purchased over time. I use them strictly in manual mode. I have used them on location to illuminate an entire wedding hall, placing each light in a lighting fixture or chandelier to simulate the ambient lighting - each speedlight filtered through a CTO 3/4 filter to play nicely with the existing lighting. At low power the lights worked for a 5 hr event with 1000 images shot without draining the battery. Not bad for less than $400 in triggers and speedlights.

Capture48 Loc: Arizona

I don't disagree about it being easy, but I do think it gets very complicated for beginners. With patience and practice it can easily be mastered. But you have to be dedicated to learning. It will be well worth the effort to learn manual.

I myself use Pocket Wizards, Flex5's and PLUS III.s I don't suggest these if you are on a budget, but I like being able to control the power output of that one or two up in the ceiling from my camera. With PW I can shoot a combination of TTL & Manual.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Couldn't agree more!

As an alternate to the PWs, Yongnuo has these:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=1086002&gclid=CjwKEAiAt4mlBRDXwt_m9ICU4DcSJAAS_X0W0KibxqSWi0RDK1Wgf8DbPeJB-pm9Jrx3qbcgNyiMBBoCwwHw_wcB&is=REG&Q=&A=details

TriseyThePhotog

Than

TriseyThePhotog

I'm very sure he was scared I'd steal work from him but Detroit is big and my rates aren't as high since my skill level isn't as high. When I get better my rates will go up though but thanks for the words. I will look into the information you have me

TriseyThePhotog

Thanks you all! Very helpful :)

wolfman

I would suggest looking into mono-lights for your studio setup. I use the Alien bees from Paul C Buff. They are reasonably priced, and IMHO, would be better than speedlights. Their light modifiers are also reasonably priced, as are their accessories.
http://www.paulcbuff.com/alienbees.php
Here's a good video on lighting, with different modifiers.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yWhi4I20s10

Bob

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

http://www.scantips.com/lights/vs.html

Compares speedlights with Alien Bees monolights.

TriseyThePhotog

Thanks! I was looking at those recently! They seemed reasonably priced but how many transceivers and receivers would I have to purchase for 2 lights? 4 lights?

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Regardless of which system you use - CyberCommander or Cyber Sync - you'll need 1 transmitter, and for each light you will need one receiver. The two systems are not interchangeable - Commander gives you complete control over light levels from the camera's position, the Cyber Sync just triggers the flash.