droper

Just purchased a Nikon d5100. Have used it a short while and would like to become better on settings. I take lots of inside gym shots and so far have failed at taking pics, most are blurry. I use the athletic or action setting. I would like to set up camera for different types of light flurescent vs others and be able to take pictures that are not blurry in gym. I use a Nikor 55-200 & 70-300 lenses. Is there a way to preset my camera so when I get to the gym I can just go to & it is already set up to the situation I am shooting in. I also take athletic pics at night and they are awful. I am more of a hands on person than manual ? Anyone help. I sent the wrong pic ?

jethro779 Loc: Tucson, AZ

No pic showing.

ebbote Loc: Hockley, Texas

Welcome to the Forum Droper.

Db7423 Loc: Pittsburgh, PA

Welcome to the Hog droper. Blurry can be from too slow of a shutter speed or from poor focus. Hard to tell which may be your problem unless you post a pic. As for white balance if you can set it in camera for the lighting you are shooting in. ;)

Mac Loc: Pittsburgh, Philadelphia now Hernando Co. Fl.

Welcome to UHH droper.
Your blurry pictures are probably a result of the shutter speed being to slow. For action sports, you should try for a shutter speed in the 1/250 - 1/500 range (or faster) to get to this speed you will need to open your lens to it's widest aperture (lowest f number) you may also need to increase your ISO. Take your camera off the Program setting and set it to Aperture Priority (A) and set your aperture to the lowest number (widest aperture) and set your ISO to 400 or 800 When set up like this the camera will automatically give you the correct shutter speed.

Dngallagher Loc: Wilmington De.

Correct, for the lighting, but not necessarily to stop blurry action shots.

I think it might be best to shoot manual mode, set auto ISO, set the aperture to the widest setting then choose a shutter speed of at least 1/250 or above and let the camera choose the ISO - PP can get the noise out if the ISO goes too high. I also find that ISO 4500 on my D7100 is not real bad on noise - so I set a max of 4500 ISO so the camera does not go higher.

As an example, using your settings I get a shutter speed of 1/20 on an indoor scene - not going to stop much action with that, but the same scene with my settings gives me the ability to boost my shutter speed to 1/125 and get the same shot at ISO 4500, giving me a better chance to stop action.

Just my opinion.

Allen Hirsch Loc: Oakland, CA

You're using a DSLR as essentially a point & shoot when you use athletic or action settings.

You should learn the exposure triangle of aperture, ISO, and shutter speed, and use manual settings for aperture and shutter speed (auto ISO is OK, if your camera allows).

In low light, with action that needs to be frozen, auto settings (other than auto ISO) won't cut it.

You also want to work on your handholding technique (you don't say but I assume you're not using a tripod or monopod). Squeeze, don't jab, the shutter button when you press it. Have your elbows against your sides for support and stability. Breathing technique can also help with stability.

Welcome to UHH.

Swamp Gator Loc: Coastal South Carolina

School indoor gyms and night sports events are notoriously poorly lit and among the worst conditions for taking action photos you will encounter.
I don't know much about your camera but suspect you will get marginal IQ at high ISO which is what you need. Fast glass is another requirement.
Don't know what your lenses widest openings are but you can try using Aperture Priority with your lens set to the widest opening.
Maybe try 3200 ISO and if that combo gets you a shutter speed of 500 or better you may be able to get away with it, but likely with noisy images.
If that doesn't provide a fast enough shutter to stop action you are likely out of luck.

Video Vinny Loc: Pahrump

Hello Droper

Most of us will have a different technique to correct this. I'm sure some will not agree with me. Listen to them all and try it all. Most will be helpful. You will find what works for you.

I suspect your stated problem is shutter speed, camera movement, focus or all the above. I'm not sure if the 5100 may have an AF motor. If not you need to focus manually which may pose a problem in sport photog.

I mostly shoot theater, variety shows, pageants and other stage events. Mostly inside, low light with participants often moving around quickly.

The fact that there are on/off spot, color and accent lights doesn't help. I use mostly a D5300 with AF 18-50 - 55-200 AF and a prime 50 that is not AF, or a P520 bridge (really, it works great if the room is tight and lens changing may be difficult). Here's what works for me:

First, I use only the Viewfinder. Setting the focus and waiting for my shot. That gives me about a one second edge. If free holding the camera, practice bracing to hold extremely still. If you haven't, try a monopod.

About the only thing I use Live View for is Portraits or no movement shots. I go to 'S' priority to try to get the fastest shutter speed that will work for me. Hopefully 1/125 which oftentimes is an effort in futility.

Then I read the 'A' and the 'ISO' , take some tests - then check the image. I go to the Histogram to double check and see what I can adjust, usually it is in the 'ISO'. I use L burst. The under/over exposure (three clicks) may help.

Initially this is cumbersome but becomes easier with practice. This is difficult to preset accurately but after a while you will probably be able to make the 'educated' guess.

As for the florescent, on the 5300 I try to use the 'FLD' filter. It helps with the quality but reduces the light coming through the lens so often times it is impracticable.

If the 5100 has 'Sport' or like settings, try them out.

It sounds as though you may be having a tough time understanding your camera. Don't feel badly.

I am an old time film photographer. I believe that has given me an edge. We had to get it right through the lens the first time or go broke trying. Digital is a difficult challenge for me.

I am still learning digital and having a hard time, but every time it gets a little easier. I almost threw the 5300 through the window the first month.

Some of the HOGs here will criticize this but if your are having a similar difficult time try this: Noting that Nikon has spent millions on their camera settings, the 'Auto' feature works great. A camera savvy operator can improve upon it as he progresses.

Try it as much as you can in the beginning, read the settings it gives you. Use that as a guide for future 'M' settings. Remember, that 'M' is the most difficult to master. I recommend working up to it.

Hope this helps. Welcome to the HOG.

Here you will have the benefit of many genuine masters of the trade (I'm not one of them and this is probably the only thing that works for me).

Watch out for the 'Wanna Bees'. Good Luck. Vinny

Mac Loc: Pittsburgh, Philadelphia now Hernando Co. Fl.

:thumbup: :thumbup:
Even better. I should have thought of Auto ISO.

Dngallagher Loc: Wilmington De.

I use auto ISO quite a bit along with Aperture priority, it works out well as long as you set the high end so you don't go over your noise correction limit.

Dngallagher Loc: Wilmington De.

Good deal on the use auto to get to manual mode ;) Have read that a lot. Good advice!

:thumbup:

davidrb Loc: Half way there on the 45th Parallel

Hello droper and Merry Christmas. Your photographs are blurred for one of three reasons. 1) Camera shake. Solution: hold it still! Tripods, monopods, beanbags, person's shoulders, etc are designed to hold camera bodies/lenses still. Investigate the uses of these devices and experiment with anything that may aid you. 2.) Subject blurred. Solution: Freeze it! You will develop a feel for shutter control as you learn. There is no set formula for SS as it depends upon such the speed of the subject, the direction of the subject's motion, and most importantly, the distance between the subject and the camera's film plane. If you are 15 feet from a man on a bucking horse you would need a much faster shutter speed than if you were 30 feet away from the same subject. 3.) Both 1 & 2. Solution: study every terrible (rotten, blurred, worst ever, etc., etc.) photograph you take and know why it is what it is. Then, with those goofs in mind, figure out what was correct. The next time out, slow down and concentrate. Learn to pay attention to details. Watch you shots improve, the harder you work, the more improvement you will see. Give it a try. GL

droper

I appreciate the advice and hope to try it out next weekend.I do not know about the 5300 is there a place in the camera where you can save settings for different situations ?

spdmn54 Loc: Avon Lake, Ohio

Welcome to the Hog. Blurry inside shots could be the type of lens you are trying to use indoors. I have the D3100 with the same 50-200 lens, and sometimes because of the focal length I have had trouble focusing indoors on action shots. You will find that any of the manual mode are better than the presets when it comes to talking good pics. Good luck and please post some of them. :D