in my quest for a desktop macro rig i had a 36"x21" x20"steel frame welded up. Added 4 21"x11" steel panels. Added 2 21"x11"x5/8" plywood panels. Added a couple big old angle iron stiffeners.
Sound like a stable winner? No way. Put the camera on liveview with HDMI monitor and leaned on the desk. The image on the monitor jumped in time to my heartbeat. I had succeeded in building a 50 pound sound box with a three second ringdown time. Hit the rig with my knuckle and it went boonnngg like a guitar. Thats image #1
A quick trip to the lumber yard for some medium density board like you build speaker enclosures with. Replaced everything on the frame with the board and shot image #2. Hit it with my knuckle now and it just goes thunk. Motion blur is back under control.
Its not my fault Douglas. When i was shooting 1:1 or 2:1 the shots seemed vibration free.
It was only when i jumped to 4:1 or 5:1 that I realized a lot of the blur I blamed the lens for was really due to the materials in my rig.
This is one of the 4:1 at f/5.6, no flash, Nikkor 105G with reversed 24mm, frames used to construct that second image.
If I can figure out the proper exposure and get my Zerene ordered, I should be back in business.
oldtigger wrote:
This is one of the 4:1 at f/5.6, no flash, Nikkor 105G with reversed 24mm . . .
I applaud your effort, and your results. 105/24 = 4.4x life-size at MFD.
Vibration, the bane of high magnification stackers. Glad to hear you resolved the issue. Proper and pleasant exposure is tricky at higher magnifications. You have to keep experimenting with different light sources, intensity, direction(s), diffusion materials, etc. To make matters worse every subject seems to require different variations.
A-PeeR wrote:
... ... Proper and pleasant exposure is tricky at higher magnifications. You have to keep experimenting ......To make matters worse every subject seems to require different variations.
that last sentence bugs me. It shouldn't be true but you seem to be right. Changing subjects should be a plug and play but it isn't.
I'm beginning to think white balance is screwing up my shots.
Whatever you are doing, it's amazing how close and clear these images are.
I will stick to 1:1 for a while longer.
How about posting a pic of that 'beast' of your desktop macro rig?
Thanks
Great shots, too.
It seems something like an old-school butcher block with a nice slab of Marble would be rock solid. Of course, these aren't things you would likely have on hand.
Thanks for posting your progress...very interesting :)
Flyextreme wrote:
It seems something like an old-school butcher block with a nice slab of Marble would be rock solid. ...
local tombstone carver got me a small marble slab which is ideal but i still need to drill the holes for the feet and stackshot rail.
The butcher block wood resonates but the MDF board i used is self damping.
Granite surface plates can be bought from machinist supply houses. The imported ones are pretty reasonable. L.L. Starrett not so much!
Some of the "Comparator" plates have a post already built into them. Not sure how vibration free it is, but should be pretty stiff for precision measuring.
oldtigger wrote:
that last sentence bugs me. It shouldn't be true but you seem to be right. Changing subjects should be a plug and play but it isn't.
I'm beginning to think white balance is screwing up my shots.
If you figure out how to get your illumination to be plug and play please let me know. I'd be very interested in seeing how you do it. I think WB is critical to high magnification stacking and always shoot a gray card before stacking. When I started I just let it default to the canned preselects - auto, flash and setting specified kelvin temperatures of the bulbs. I often found the colors weren't right. I got frustrated because I could never tweak the color balance in post to match what my eyeballs saw. I also noticed what I call color contamination. When I shot with an incorrect WB setting and compared it with custom grey card shots, I could see a difference in the detail and clarity.
oldtigger wrote:
local tombstone carver got me a small marble slab which is ideal but i still need to drill the holes for the feet and stackshot rail.
The butcher block wood resonates but the MDF board i used is self damping.
No need to drill holes for anti-vibration feet. Go to the HVAC wholesale store and ask for anti-vibration feet. They are cork dampeners sandwiched between rubber ribbed feet. Look like this:
http://www.supplyhouse.com/DiversiTech-MP-2C-Rubber-Cork-Anti-Vibration-Pad-2-x-2-x-7-8 Very cheap and very effective. 2" X 2" pad on each corner offers plenty of support for a marble slab and there is no screw going through the block, which can introduce slight vibration when you dial in higher magnifications, i.e. 20x, 40x.
RedAdmiral wrote:
...Some of the "Comparator" plates have a post already built into them. Not sure how vibration free it is, but should be pretty stiff for precision measuring.
i envy you big city boys with all your resources. I'm no Luddite, in just the last 3 years i've already made 4 phone calls and i'm thinking of putting up a mailbox. The other day i was talking to a friend about possibly installing central heating and maybe even a second light bulb. Always been a nose to nose, cash and carry person even in business so buying on line is out.
The problem I have with the desktop studio isn't the mini studio but the desk itself. It vibrates a bit as people walk around in the house or as traffic passes by. So I tend just to use flash, so I can freeze things in a fast 1/32 setting or the like.
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