2nd Attempt at Macro: This is my second try at Macro with my Nikon 60mm Micro. This little critter was elusive. I was running f/stops and ISOs when he hopped onto the set then I had to...

CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.

This is my second try at Macro with my Nikon 60mm Micro. This little critter was elusive. I was running f/stops and ISOs when he hopped onto the set then I had to coax him onto the flower, then try to get a fix on him before each movement. This is the best I could get moving everything around manually.
#1 Uncropped 1:1 adjusted clarity and exposure.
#2 Cropped approximately 50%
NIKON D600 at ISO 80, with Nikkor 60-mm macro lens, Nikon SB-700 speedlight w/ diffuser, 1/250-sec at f/16

1:1

(Download)

Cropped

(Download)

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

Not too shabby. The Nikkor 60-mm is an excellent lens, but the MWD is only 90-mm = 3.5-inches. Not much room to provide illumination.

CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.

Nikonian72 wrote:

Not too shabby. The Nikkor 60-mm is an excellent lens, but the MWD is only 90-mm = 3.5-inches. Not much room to provide illumination.

Yes I see what you mean, a lot shadows with this subject. And the light is very angled onto the objective. Any ideas short of buying a new ring flash?
Craig

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

CraigFair wrote:

Any ideas short of buying a new ring flash?

There are a few "short focal length" macro-photographers on this forum, who can best address your illumination situation.
A 6x8-inch softbox on a standard speedlight at an acute angle, is still an option.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

CraigFair wrote:

Yes I see what you mean, a lot shadows with this subject. And the light is very angled onto the objective. Any ideas short of buying a new ring flash?

Craig: I don't use the 60-mm macro, but I would suggest getting the flash as close to the lens as possible and then angling it as forward as possible so that shadows fall more behind the subject, even if the softbox "overshoots" your subject. In other words, it becomes more important that the box isn't aimed down on the subject from the top.

CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.

LoneRangeFinder wrote:

Craig: I don't use the 60-mm macro, but I would suggest getting the flash as close to the lens as possible and then angling it as forward as possible so that shadows fall more behind the subject, even if the softbox "overshoots" your subject. In other words, it becomes more important that the box isn't aimed down on the subject from the top.

Nikonian72 wrote:

A 6x8-inch softbox on a standard speedlight at an acute angle, is still an option.

Thank you to both for a short term solution to my lighting issue but I can see if I'm going to play in this sandbox I am going to have to get the appropriate gear.
I think the macro ring flash will be first then I'll see about a Nikon AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED.
Macro Photography should me keep busy indoors for the Winter. Thanks again for your input.
Craig

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

CraigFair wrote:

I think the macro ring flash will be first then I'll see about a Nikon AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED.

Ringflashes are notoriously under-powered, but may work fine for the short Working Distance associated with a 60-mm macro.

I own a Nikkor 105G macro lens, but If I had to replace it, I would strongly consider the Sigma 105 or the Sigma 150: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-213504-1.html

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

Nikonian72 wrote:

Ringflashes are notoriously under-powered, but may work fine for the short Working Distance associated with a 60-mm macro.
I own a Nikkor 105G macro lens, but If I had to replace it, I would strongly consider the Sigma 105 or the Sigma 150: http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-213504-1.html

I echo this comment. I have the 105G as well--and it's a very sharp lens. I'd also go with the Siggy... and I prefer the 105 over the 150, but that's a personal "style" preference.
I like being closer to the subject.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

LED ring flashes are underpowered for the most part... Standard type ring units are not...

Albuqshutterbug Loc: Albuquerque NM

CraigFair wrote:

I think the macro ring flash will be first . . .

You may want to consider this ring. This is the flash that I bought from Amazon and I tend to over flash my subjects for now as I learn to adjust levels for subjects.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F5UY9XE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This has flash tubes not LED's and puts out a fair amount of light. It has the two studio LED's to aid in focus in darker situations.
Nice shot by the way.

CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.

Albuqshutterbug wrote:

You may want to consider this ring.

Thank you Albuqshutterbug, That flash is so close the only problem is the Adapters are wrong.
Supports the lens of the following filter size : 52mm、58mm、67mm、72mm. Both the Nikon 60mm & 105mm have 62mm filter rings.
Now the what if. Could I use a 67mm-62mm step down adapter. Or would that just create a mess. Anyone???
Craig
PS: And thanks to Nikonian72, LoneRangeFinder & Screamin Scott for their informative input.

Macronaut Loc: Redondo Beach,Ca.

Even though I'm pretty new to photography in general, I'll put in my 2 cents.

For about the same money as the above mentioned ring flash, you can get a Yongnuo 560III speedlight. Flash bracket, ball joint, cord (I recently opted for wireless) and softbox. I feel the advantages over ring flashes are:
1.) More options for different types of diffusion.
2.) Able to adjust for more lighting angles/direction/distance (closer means less power needed).
3.) Can usually shoot at less power, which means shorter flash duration, which helps freeze motion (yours or your subjects).
4.) Great for non macro shooting.

I may have missed some things.
I believe that "most" great macro I've seen, is not done with a ring flash. The ring flash does 'seem" to be more convenient. I'm not sure if it is or not. I'm not using mine and doubt I ever will (same goes for my O-Flash).

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

I am also a user of the Yongnuo 560 III. For general use, it is important to understand that it is a non-TTL speedlight. So one does have to pay attention when using it.

I have gone lighter/smaller recently, but I still break out the Yongnuo on occasion.

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

There are advantages of softbox illumination over ring lights, but as with anything, there are also negatives. My main nit about softbox diffusion is that if an insect is on a leaf on a branch, it can be well nigh impossible to get close enough to get a life sized image without the softbox brushing up against the branches & likely scaring the insect off (something that's enough of an issue as it is. I can simply pull the camera up to my face & an insect might fly off). That said, the softbox is much better suited to insects or subjects with "shiny" surfaces and is also preferred when stacking images in the studio environs. The ring lights will tend to have more spectral highlights (hot spots) that softbox diffusion. When shooting insects without multifaceted eyes (like Jumping spiders) the method of illumination can be seen in the "catch lights" of the eyes. Bottom line though is that each systems has it's pros & cons, it's up to the user to decide which they prefer. As for myself, I utilize both systems, depending on my subjects & the environs.

CraigFair Loc: Santa Maria, CA.

Flyextreme, LoneRangeFinder & Scott. Thank you all for the great input. I really need this kind of help.
I'm going to come in out of the field into the studio (kitchen counter with a placemat) to get some more control but less natural.
I have a Nikon SB-700 Speedlight w/remote setup and a 4"x5" softbox. Before I go out and get more gear I'll try all the suggestions.
With only 90mm to work with it will be a fight to the finish. If I can get some presentable shots I'll post them here.
Thanks Again, Craig