CHOLLY Loc: THE FLORIDA PANHANDLE!

EXACTLY! :thumbup:

marcomarks Loc: Ft. Myers, FL

The sunspots with my Panasonic G ultra wide angle lens are pinkish-purple in some cases and green in other cases - depending on the angle from the sunlight that I'm at. It has no UV filter on it so your conclusion is incorrect. A color blob is clearly not always from using a UV filter.

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

If you will look at the data I provided, the sensors are only partially filtered. There are ranges in both UV and IR that are not filtered from the sensor. It is those ranges that the sensors are susceptible to both UV and IR. There is no processing the UV out since the camera has no idea what altitude the camera is at. My guess is if you would contact the camera manufactures, they would confirm they have no in camera processing for UV. Macromarks confirms what I already knew about the Smokey Mountain National Park (been there several times). And I can guarantee you will have a noticeable difference shooting a sky / mountain scene from a 10,000 foot pass. Film does "record" UV more so than digital. But digital sensors will record some UV and a UV filter will remove that UV. It is a fact (and researchable), not fiction.

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

You are right. Unless the filter is coated nearly as well as the lense itself, it will only increase the lense flare. You are right that even a properly coated filter will potentially increase the lense flare by two surfaces. If the sunlight cannot be kept off the filter, it could be better taking off the filter - especially a poorly coated filter.

MotoXR

Again Thank you for everyones input. Under the circumstances that i shoot in i have to have some type of protection for the lens due to flying rocks,sand ect. I am anywhere from 3' to 20' from the areas being shot and rocks flying at 60mph do damage lol So that being said i have the choice between a clear UV or Polorized filter

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

I think your lens shades that you showed will help you a lot. Since you are more or less obligated to a filter to protect the lense, l would be buying the best UV filter that has the best visible light transmission rate with the most scratch resistant coating. I believe Hoya has just come out with a pro series that would meet most of these criteria, but they may not be the best or the "cheapest" (good filters are never cheap). Wish you much success with your shooting.

CHOLLY Loc: THE FLORIDA PANHANDLE!

Did you READ M.T.'s first post in this thread? No?

Well, I suggest you go back and take a look... ;)



Yep... makes sense. :thumbup:

CHOLLY Loc: THE FLORIDA PANHANDLE!

It's ALSO a fact that different manufacturers filter different sensors differently.

MOST modern CMOS sensors ARE filtered to remove MOST wavelengths of UV. Additionally, modern lens coatings ALSO reduce or remove UV from the light striking those modern sensors.

UV filters ARE NOT NECCESSARY on modern DSLRs. PERIOD.

Of course this IS the U.S. of A and anyone can put all the filters on their lenses that they wish. It's just that they shouldn't be surprised when they get nice blobs and ghosts and decreased contrast when they do... ;)

CHOLLY Loc: THE FLORIDA PANHANDLE!

Forget about the UV filter. Get that out of your head. :lol:

As MT Shooter said in his 2nd or 3rd post, but the BEST clear protective filter you can afford. You don't need UV... just protection. ;)

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

The various colors are caused by the lense coatings and the angle that the sunlight and reflections occur through them and nothing else. It is just like macromarks states, the colors from pinkish - purple to green and depends on light angle and what order the coatings were put on. That is because every 1/4 wave length coating is for a different wave lenght. Hence, a three layer coated lense/filter is not as good as a eight or nine layer coated lense/filter. The three coated lense/filter will have much greater flare and less light transmission than the nine coated lense/filter. It also costs much more for a nine coated lense/filter because of the difficult in accuracy and quality of those layers. This is why we photographers have to pay big bucks for good lenses and filters. And I learned about this in my first photography class back in 1975 and it still has not changed. Haven't you wondered why we pay so much for the lenses? The calculations are complex and done by a computer now. They have to include these layers in that calculation. But that is a one time calculation cost. There will be manufacturing costs. But one of the biggest of those costs are those 1/4 wave length coatings. If you screw up those layers, you have screwed up the whole lense - focus, flare, and everything else. Your computer designed lense is junk. And if you doubt me, research it. It really has not changed.

MotoXR

wdross Thank makes perfect sence. quality = money = better quality photographs :)