Oh, and there's one other thing. A polarizer will produce stunning sky color (and other colors) and it'll help eliminate reflected glare, but the polarizer will also cost you a coupla f-stops worth of light.
JaiGieEse wrote:
Oh, and there's one other thing. A polarizer will produce stunning sky color (and other colors) and it'll help eliminate reflected glare, but the polarizer will also cost you a coupla f-stops worth of light.
And, light = ISO=noise.......
Are you sure it was a circular. Linear polarizers confuse autofocus and pics look blurry. Be sure there are the letters CPL on the rim of the filter.
BTW, circular does not refer to the shape of the polarizer. It refers to how the filter processes the light. When I started shooting digital, I had a couple olders polarizers I used on my film cameras. It didn't take me long to see that I needed to make a change. Linear polarizers don't work with digital.
jdcalabr wrote:
The attached picture was taken with a Nikon D7000 using a Nikon 18-200 VR lens. I beleive the focus is too soft.
Autofocus was set to AF-C (continuous)
Backbutton focus was used
I believe a single focal point was selected (middle of array)
f/8 should have been sufficient for no depth of field concerns
Zoom value on lens was 200 mm
1/640 shutter speed should have been sufficiently fast for hand holding (1/300 sec is recommended with a crop sensor)
VR was on.
Shutter prohibited from firing if focus is not obtained.
Circular polarizer in place.
Can anyone tell me what I did wrong? This only seems to happen sometimes. Polarization setting?
The attached picture was taken with a Nikon D7000 ... (
show quote)
For what it is worth, I use a Canon 50D with a Canon 18-200 lens. When I use the circular polarizer I find that I get sharper focus in manual focus mode. The auto focus is good enough for quick shots but if I want to be sure it is sharp I need to go manual focus. I have learned to live with it.
An endless topic to be sure. To begin with, as I use Nikon cameras and lenses, I use Nikon filters. Many left over from the film days. The newer CP ones, (Nikon) are thinner than the older ones. This is just what I do. When I went digital, and acquired new lenses I only bought CP thin ones. That problem solved. Also, it took time for me to deal with the 'delay' in digital. If you do not give the camera time to focus, the results you display will be what you get. The same result can be aquired when using a tripod with the "VR" on at lower speeds. Newer cameras seem to have done away with the long delay, but one can still jump the gun now and then. JMHO. :)
I'll tell you what - I can not achieve focus at all on my Canon 100-400 f4L IS if it has a Polorized filter on it. It may be that I'm using a cheaper brand???
I going to go out on a limb here and suggest you don't use the polarizer with the lens as you implied you were happy with the results prior to using the filter.. Not to mention your using a $20 piece of glass in front of an $700 lens. If using filters buy only the Best.
With my Nikon D200, when I run into focusing problems, I aim the camera at something that has an edge, different color, etc., anything that breaks up a constant surface that is also the same distance, then after it locks focus, recompose. When shooting moving subjects in constant focus mode, I'll just do the same, but use the focus lock button. Use of hyperfocal tips can help.
http://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/hyperfocal-focusing-photography-tips/1/640 at f8 - what ISO were you using? Higher ISO will cause grain, softening your image. With a VR lens on (and NO tripod!), you shouldn't have needed such a high shutter speed. I always use the lowest ISO I can get away with. I used to shoot Kodak Royal 25 print film for first light and sunrises. (WITH tripod!)
If you want to reply, then
register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.