Vivitar 283
Sep 27, 2014 11:49:27 #
LouP01
Loc: Palm Bay, FL
I have a Vivitar auto thyristor 283 flash that I've had for many years. I used it on a Canon AE-1. It still works and was wondering if I could use it on a Canon 60D that I have?
Lou
Lou
Sep 27, 2014 11:59:42 #
Edit: After I did more research on this topic, I stand corrected. I didn't know about the possible electrical malfunctions. Glad to find this before giving it a simple try.
My apologies.
My apologies.
Sep 27, 2014 12:07:12 #
MartyM wrote:
Check the batteries, put it on the camera, turn the camera on and press the shutter. Just test it out for yourself.
NO NO NO NO!
Some flashes have very high trigger voltages. Look here: http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html
Your 283 could be as high as 600 volts which could toast your camera. There are instructions on how to test your flash. Find out how many volts it's got before using it.
Sep 27, 2014 12:28:11 #
Sep 27, 2014 12:43:52 #
actually that's not what I'm saying - test the flash. It says older units where very high voltage but newer units were under 10 volts. It's very easy to test with a volt meter.
I'm just saying don't use it until you know which model you have.
I'm just saying don't use it until you know which model you have.
Sep 27, 2014 14:01:16 #
I believe there are step-down voltage devices you can use. I use my 283 and other older flashes on a remote flash trigger from Cowboy...it's not very expensive and works great.
Sep 27, 2014 14:11:32 #
The cowboy triggers and many others are "rated" at about 12 volts maximum. They may just say that to cover their butts though. You can get a Wein Safe-Sync for about $50 that will step the voltage down to a safe level too but for $50 you could prolly just get a newer flash unit...
Sep 27, 2014 14:42:17 #
LouP01 wrote:
I have a Vivitar auto thyristor 283 flash that I've had for many years. I used it on a Canon AE-1. It still works and was wondering if I could use it on a Canon 60D that I have?
Lou
Lou
First, be very careful. However, here is a thread that may help. I wouldn't do a direct attachment, but with triggers it may work. Check out the voltage on your Vivitar 283...
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-238331-1.html
A quick Google search suggests this model could be a problem...
http://www.instructables.com/id/Taming-the-high-trigger-voltage-of-the-Vivitar-283/
Mr. Google is your friend....
Good luck
Sep 28, 2014 08:55:30 #
You can use this flash in manual with a pocket wizard as the trigger. I have several friends that use these quite a lot, but only in manual with the PW.
Sep 28, 2014 11:51:46 #
sloscheider wrote:
actually that's not what I'm saying - test the flash. It says older units where very high voltage but newer units were under 10 volts. It's very easy to test with a volt meter.
I'm just saying don't use it until you know which model you have.
I'm just saying don't use it until you know which model you have.
I've read that the older, analog VOMs aren't suitable, but that a cheap digital VOM is just fine. They can be got for about $20 at Lowe's or Home Despot. Better safe than sorry!
Sep 28, 2014 12:22:57 #
GeorgeH wrote:
I've read that the older, analog VOMs aren't suitable, but that a cheap digital VOM is just fine. They can be got for about $20 at Lowe's or Home Despot. Better safe than sorry!
I like the last sentence best! Be safe...
Don't trust any consumer grade device to measure the voltage on a flash! Even the relatively high impedance of a Digital Volt Meter may not be high enough, but even worse the length of time that a high voltage spike exists may be too short to register on the DVM and yet quite long enough to damage a camera. The right measuring device is a peak reading meter, and a "storage oscilloscope" would probably be best. Not exactly available to everyone.
The Vivitar 283 is a great example of a wonderful old flash to use with an isolation device to trigger it without exposing the high voltage to the camera. Several devices have been mentioned, but the least expensive is a optical trigger that syncs to the camera's on board flash!
Sep 28, 2014 18:53:44 #
LouP01 wrote:
I have a Vivitar auto thyristor 283 flash that I've had for many years. I used it on a Canon AE-1. It still works and was wondering if I could use it on a Canon 60D that I have?
Lou
Lou
I wouldn't. A new Vivitar 283 meant for digital cameras is less than $100 so don't chance blowing your 60D's circuitry with voltage mismatches, etc. Just bite the bullet and don't take chances like that. I also had a 283 back in the film days and thoroughly liked it until the bulb died and turned dark.
I got a more powerful 383 for digital cameras (you order them for a specific brand now, not one for all brands like the old days) that cost me $119 three years ago but I killed it by using it heavily in my job and melted the storage capacitor inside that builds up power which is sent to the strobe bulb.
Sep 28, 2014 21:03:07 #
The problem with "trigger voltage" is it going through the pins behind the main (larger) contact as the flash is placed on the camera shoe. If the flash is charged and the voltage on the trigger capacitor(usually around 110 volts) goes into the circuit and IC's that operate on about 1.3 volts. Not a good combination. I would recommend a flash dedicated to that camera. I have three 283's but will not use them on my digital. I use them off camera on a slave device. :thumbup:
Sep 28, 2014 22:03:02 #
Apaflo wrote:
I like the last sentence best! Be safe... br br ... (show quote)
Analog. Meters work fine. When the flash is charged the voltage is there on the pins ready to be measured. It's not just an instataeneous pulse. At least not in any that I've measured
Sep 28, 2014 22:22:38 #
sloscheider wrote:
Analog. Meters work fine. When the flash is charged the voltage is there on the pins ready to be measured. It's not just an instataeneous pulse. At least not in any that I've measured
Analog meters are wonderful for what they do well. This isn't a case where they do well.
There may very well be transient spikes high enough to damage a modern digital camera. That is the nature of the designs used when the camera's flash sync was a mechanical switch, not a solid state device.
An average voltage, particularly measured with a relatively low impedance analog meter, is one thing. The peak voltages created by surges due to circuit reactance are an entirely different beast. Likewise there was no need to be concerned about reverse voltages with a mechanical switch, and a negative surge of even a low voltage may damage a digital camera.
Put simply, a storage scope or the equivalent is the only way to determine if a given flash is safe or not.
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