Mike W. Loc: Cullman Al.

High school football starts this week in Alabama. I have two nephews playing this year. I would very much to like to shoot images they would be proud to own for years to come. I plan to use my Nikon D90 and either my 70-200 2.8 or my 18-300 3.5/5.6. I will be shooting from the fence or maybe from the sideline. That is unless a end zone shot would be better. This will most likely be a night game. I need some good suggestions on aperture and shutter speeds. What would get me a sharp image on the player in focus? Thanks, Mike

Erv Loc: Medina Ohio

Hi Mike. I would use the 70-200. It will be better in the lighting you are going to get. I would go early and see what you can get before they play. And if you can get on the side lines that is where you will get the best shots. But you will do a lot of walking.:):) Most schools don't have great lighting.

The other thing, can you go to some of the practices? This will do to things. Get to know the plays and how they run them and it will help you with your focusing and panning.
Erv

OH!It might be good to look here too and ask.:):)
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-103-1.html

amehta Loc: Boston

This involves some easy choices and some trade-offs. My first suggestions are to use the 70-200mm f/2.8 and a monopod. Take some practice shots at ISO 800, 1600, 3200 and decide how high you are willing to go. I would shoot at f/2.8 and see if you can get a shutter speed like 1/250s. The monopod will help you pan with the play, keeping the camera steady vertically as you turn it horizontally. You can adjust a stop or two off those settings as you need.

sueyeisert Loc: New Jersey

Get a monopod.

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

hj Loc: Florida

I have to agree with others.... use a MONOPOD. I shoot with a Canon 70-200 f2.8 and usually get really good soccer photos. At last night's game, I sat down on a bench which I never do. Took the camera off the monopod for a few shots
and was shocked how difficult it was to hold the camera, focusing etc and within minutes put it back on the monopod.

Db7423 Loc: Pittsburgh, PA

Agree with everything said above. Depending on the lighting you will have to be at f2.8 and ISO 800 - 1600. Set these and shoot on aperature priority. If you find you can't maintain an adequate shutter speed bump up the ISO. If you still can't maintain shutter speed you are out of luck. In my opinion a monopod is a must. Good luck. ;)

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

You will also want to be in continuous servo and, especially at 2.8, use center point focusing and possibly center-weighted metering( I don't think your camera has enough focus points to do anything more complicated)

Db7423 Loc: Pittsburgh, PA

:thumbup: Good point abnout center focus point and metering. Might also consider switching to back button for focus and metering. ;)

PNagy Loc: Missouri City, Texas

I had panned to remain silent on this one until I saw an incredible piece of advice telling you to set your camera on aperture priority. That will absolutely blur the movement of both the ball and the players. Shutter speed priority and burst shooting mode is the only way to go with the following observations:

1. 1/250 sec. is the slowest that will work. This will leave some blurring of the images if that is what you want.

2. 1/320 sec. will blur nearly all human motion, but might sometimes leave the kicked or thrown ball slightly blurred.

3. 1/500 sec. will freeze everything that can happen in a football game.

4. whichever speed you choose, experiment with ISO and exposure compensation until the image is bright enough.

5. If you set to full manual to control the aperture as well as the shutter speed, there will be no adjustment for a stark reality; the lighting is not the same at all parts of the field.

Db7423 Loc: Pittsburgh, PA

PNagy, what part of "If you find you can't maintain an adequate shutter speed bump up the ISO." didn't you understand? The conditions are low light and he will want (probably need to) maintain f2.8 so he may as well lock it in along with a shutter speed of 1/250. ;)

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

If you use a monopod, play with image stabilization ahead of time. Some people need it with a monopod and some should turn it off.

Novots Loc: Grand Forks, ND

As you lose light, you are almost certainly going to have to go to a higher ISO. It seems like high ISO is a swear word/phrase here on the Hog, but I would suggest that a little noise is not a problem at all with most shots for high school football, in fact sometimes it looks pretty cool. I have no issue shooting in darkening conditions at 6400 or 12800 and the photos are fine and it allows you to keep things sharp as I'm able to maintain a reasonable shutter speed. I do realize that the camera will make a difference related to noise level so it may be an issue for your camera, as mentioned earlier, do some test shots tonight in similar, dim type lighting and see how high you can go ISO wise and it will give you a starting point. If ultimately you just want to be able to print 4x6 or 5x7's noise shouldn't be that big of an issue. Good luck!

PNagy Loc: Missouri City, Texas

Nagy: I had panned to remain silent on this one until I saw an incredible piece of advice telling you to set your camera on aperture priority. That will absolutely blur the movement of both the ball and the players. Shutter speed priority and burst shooting mode is the only way to go with the following observations:

1. 1/250 sec. is the slowest that will work. This will leave some blurring of the images if that is what you want.

2. 1/320 sec. will blur nearly all human motion, but might sometimes leave the kicked or thrown ball slightly blurred.

3. 1/500 sec. will freeze everything that can happen in a football game.

4. whichever speed you choose, experiment with ISO and exposure compensation until the image is bright enough.

5. If you set to full manual to control the aperture as well as the shutter speed, there will be no adjustment for a stark reality; the lighting is not the same at all parts of the field.


Db7423: PNagy, what part of "If you find you can't maintain an adequate shutter speed bump up the ISO." didn't you understand? The conditions are low light and he will want (probably need to) maintain f2.8 so he may as well lock it in along with a shutter speed of 1/250.


Nagy: I do not care for your cavalier language, "what part of…" Moreover, you are dead wrong in what you are saying. Objected to setting a camera in aperture priority, because that means the camera will pick the shutter speed, and it is never fast enough for fast action sports. Everything will be a blur. Moreover, advising someone to set a huge aperture when the ISo is also cranked up is asking the camera lens combination to do more than it can.

You speak of "locking in" a shutter speed of 1/250, but the original suggestion of shooting in aperture priority does not allow that option; in it the camera sets the shutter speed for you.

There is yet another problem with your advice; the widest aperture possible. That creates depth of field problems on many shots, as well as further darkening the image that is already strained with a high ISO. Perhaps we should ask what part of shooting fast action sports do you understand. It appears, precious little.

Race Shooter Loc: Baltimore, Maryland

The number one tip in my opinion is get close! Talk to whom ever you have to, but get on the sidelines or on the track at least, It'll give you the most options with the 70-200. Forget the slow 300 get good with the 70-200, with a little practice you'll be able to get nice pans at 1/160 with that lens. If your shooting handheld turn O/S on, on a monopod O/S off, you may find the monopod a little restricting, at least I do, I only use it when I'm shooting with my 300 2.8, but try it and see. As far as aperture be careful always shooting wide open you may find your DOF is too shallow, sometimes a receiver stretching for a ball can wind up half in focus half out, but that's a practice thing. It's a lot of fun enjoy it.

amehta Loc: Boston

Doing this works best in aperture priority.