the Claw of the Conciliator
Aug 1, 2014 23:21:54 #
Experimenting... cut a square hole in the cooler on the left and pinned a sheet of paper to it and then aimed my flash to that. The light went in and bounced around inside the cooler.
Am eager to get additional optical triggered flashes in the mail and then will place them around with at least one inside the cooler aiming to the ceiling, am curious what will happen.
I rushed the stacking and need to learn how to fix things like the claw hairs so that the face is more clear behind.
Used Nik Software to add some color here and there. And selectively sharpened the image at areas where I was hoping the eye would be interested in..
If you haven't read any Gene Wolfe and you like to read... you should.
Am eager to get additional optical triggered flashes in the mail and then will place them around with at least one inside the cooler aiming to the ceiling, am curious what will happen.
I rushed the stacking and need to learn how to fix things like the claw hairs so that the face is more clear behind.
Used Nik Software to add some color here and there. And selectively sharpened the image at areas where I was hoping the eye would be interested in..
If you haven't read any Gene Wolfe and you like to read... you should.
Aug 1, 2014 23:42:57 #
This image is quite dark on my monitor. Too dark to appreciate much detail. Everything looks proper, other than exposure.
Aug 1, 2014 23:48:41 #
thank you for the feedback.
probably my monitor is set overly bright.. and I did the PS in a dark room to boot. I see some focus banding, I used should open aperture more or add more or images to the stack. I don't like the "download" much, seems too contrasty to me.
edit -- egads, said that backwards - meant close the aperture more, aperture was 5.5, probably should be 12 or some such...
probably my monitor is set overly bright.. and I did the PS in a dark room to boot. I see some focus banding, I used should open aperture more or add more or images to the stack. I don't like the "download" much, seems too contrasty to me.
edit -- egads, said that backwards - meant close the aperture more, aperture was 5.5, probably should be 12 or some such...
Aug 2, 2014 10:05:27 #
pfrancke wrote:
My aperture of choice is f/5.6, since f/5.6-f/8 is the "sweet spot" on my 105 macro lens. Increase in diffraction is the trade-off. If I was hand-holding, I might go to f/11. Are you using a StackShot? I would also increase the exposure.. . . meant close the aperture more, aperture was 5.5, probably should be 12 or some such.
Aug 2, 2014 10:31:34 #
Hi LoneRangeFinder!
yes - just got StackShot and started playing with it. It is a very smooth/cool tool.
My shutter speed was at 200 (thinking a nice high number so that I don't have to worry with locking the shutter up). Definitely the histogram was to the left. I must learn to expose to the right, I can always darken things if I want a darker look to the image, but you get better detail if you expose to the right on the histogram (which i failed to do).
I had lots of room to make the flash brighter - it was manual set to 1/4. But in my defense I was also searching for a low level "base/trigger" lighting that will ultimately set off the slave flashes that will go into the cooler. And I was looking to see if I could get shadows and how much the light would bounce.
The triggering light on a tripod (since it is wired and out of the way), and the slave stand-alone non-wired flashes in the cooler.
Am thinking perhaps paper towel instead of photocopy paper too as a change. I am eager to get my additional flashes.
Sorry for all my rambling, thinking out loud..
yes - just got StackShot and started playing with it. It is a very smooth/cool tool.
My shutter speed was at 200 (thinking a nice high number so that I don't have to worry with locking the shutter up). Definitely the histogram was to the left. I must learn to expose to the right, I can always darken things if I want a darker look to the image, but you get better detail if you expose to the right on the histogram (which i failed to do).
I had lots of room to make the flash brighter - it was manual set to 1/4. But in my defense I was also searching for a low level "base/trigger" lighting that will ultimately set off the slave flashes that will go into the cooler. And I was looking to see if I could get shadows and how much the light would bounce.
The triggering light on a tripod (since it is wired and out of the way), and the slave stand-alone non-wired flashes in the cooler.
Am thinking perhaps paper towel instead of photocopy paper too as a change. I am eager to get my additional flashes.
Sorry for all my rambling, thinking out loud..
Aug 2, 2014 13:00:17 #
pfrancke wrote:
Sounds like you are having fun. yes - just got StackShot and started playing with it. It is a very smooth/cool tool.
:thumbup:
Aug 2, 2014 22:59:12 #
I AM having fun!!
Second attempt - light is closer, used paper towel on cooler hole. I got more light and I think I got more detail, but I have mixed feelings about it.. One mistake I made was in not recharging flash batteries. I lost a number of frames because the flash didn't fire. But at least the histogram looked better.
Second attempt - light is closer, used paper towel on cooler hole. I got more light and I think I got more detail, but I have mixed feelings about it.. One mistake I made was in not recharging flash batteries. I lost a number of frames because the flash didn't fire. But at least the histogram looked better.
Aug 2, 2014 23:02:47 #
pfrancke wrote:
very nice, excellent surface textureI AM having fun!! Second attempt - light is closer, used paper towel on cooler hole. I got more light and I think I got more detail, but I have mixed feelings about it.. One mistake I made was in not recharging flash batteries. I lost a number of frames because the flash didn't fire. But at least the histogram looked better.
Aug 3, 2014 00:59:05 #
Aug 3, 2014 22:12:27 #
thank you oldtigger and flyextreme.
There is always something - blew out a bunch of highlights, I think my flash was too close. I hope later when I get my optical trigger flashes, I can use them for fill and my trigger flash can be on the side, outside, and be further away.
With focus stacking, since Everything is in focus, I attempted to apply pseudo focus using contrast, saturation, sharpness, etc and applying those things to the areas that I wanted to draw the eye to.
One thing, the macro hobby seems to make me more observant. I must have found 5 of these things hanging around today.
There is always something - blew out a bunch of highlights, I think my flash was too close. I hope later when I get my optical trigger flashes, I can use them for fill and my trigger flash can be on the side, outside, and be further away.
With focus stacking, since Everything is in focus, I attempted to apply pseudo focus using contrast, saturation, sharpness, etc and applying those things to the areas that I wanted to draw the eye to.
One thing, the macro hobby seems to make me more observant. I must have found 5 of these things hanging around today.
Aug 3, 2014 22:24:50 #
Aug 3, 2014 22:55:10 #
pfrancke wrote:
Coming along nicely Piet. As for blown highlights, yes it can be a problem. Moving flashes further away can help but there are other solutions. Describe your stacking setup or better yet post a picture and perhaps we can help.There is always something - blew out a bunch of highlights, I think my flash was too close. I hope later when I get my optical trigger flashes, I can use them for fill and my trigger flash can be on the side, outside, and be further away.
With focus stacking, since Everything is in focus, I attempted to apply pseudo focus using contrast, saturation, sharpness, etc and applying those things to the areas that I wanted to draw the eye to.
With focus stacking, since Everything is in focus, I attempted to apply pseudo focus using contrast, saturation, sharpness, etc and applying those things to the areas that I wanted to draw the eye to.
Aug 3, 2014 23:35:01 #
thank you Fstop22 and A-Peer.
A-Peer, these sad images demonstrate my setup. The LED light is good for keeping on so I can see what's happening inside the cooler, but it doesn't show up at all as light since the flash is so strong. Later I intend to have a flash or two inside the cooler pointing away from insect for reflected fill light. The outside flash would trigger them and be further out and if needed have additional diffusion.
Thank you for looking, I am interested in all and any lighting solutions!!!!!
A-Peer, these sad images demonstrate my setup. The LED light is good for keeping on so I can see what's happening inside the cooler, but it doesn't show up at all as light since the flash is so strong. Later I intend to have a flash or two inside the cooler pointing away from insect for reflected fill light. The outside flash would trigger them and be further out and if needed have additional diffusion.
Thank you for looking, I am interested in all and any lighting solutions!!!!!
Aug 3, 2014 23:55:40 #
pfrancke wrote:
Not sad at all, interesting solution you have come up with. I do think you can improve your lighting solution very easily without wireless triggers. For magnifications up to 20X I am finding soft box diffusion works quite well. I make my own concave diffusers. 1/16 to 1/4 power illumination is more than adequate, the light wraps nicely around the subject and the diffuser face can be placed in close proximity to the subject. I can post a picture if you like, to give you an idea of what I'm talking about.thank you Fstop22 and A-Peer. br br A-Peer, these... (show quote)
Aug 4, 2014 09:03:03 #
good gosh yes, I'd love to see the concave diffusers - and any hints about making them would be greatly appreciated.
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