This may be a stupid question.
When macro-photographing say a bug, when one gets so close, what does one do for lighting, or am I just getting to close?
KenOrr wrote:
This may be a stupid question.
When macro-photographing say a bug, when one gets so close, what does one do for lighting, or am I just getting to close?
Working close to insects tends to cast shadows on your subjects. To compensate, many macro-photographers carry their own lighting systems attached to their camera gear.
Here is my macro set-up, which is a Nikon D90 with a Nikkor 105G macro lens, and a standard Nikon SB-600 Speedlight with a $40 O-Flash 3/4-circle Fresnel prism attachment.
I use this set-up for all of my macro-photography. See examples lower left, this post, by my name.
There is an O-Flash model for every camera/speedlight combo.
Nikonian72 wrote:
KenOrr wrote:
This may be a stupid question.
When macro-photographing say a bug, when one gets so close, what does one do for lighting, or am I just getting to close?
Working close to insects tends to cast shadows on your subjects. To compensate, many macro-photographers carry their own lighting systems attached to their camera gear.
Here is my macro set-up, which is a Nikon D90 with a Nikkor 105G macro lens, and a standard Nikon SB-600 Speedlight with a $40 O-Flash 3/4-circle Fresnel prism attachment.
I use this set-up for all of my macro-photography. See examples lower left, this post, by my name.
There is an O-Flash model for every camera/speedlight combo.
quote=KenOrr This may be a stupid question. br Wh... (
show quote)
Cool pictures, Thanks for the info. I know what my next purchases is going to be.
KenOrr wrote:
Thanks for the info. I know what my next purchases is going to be.
What camera/macro lens/speedlight do you have available?
Nikonian72 wrote:
KenOrr wrote:
Thanks for the info. I know what my next purchases is going to be.
What camera/macro lens/speedlight do you have available?
I have the Nikon D3000 with a Neewer .45X super wide Lens w/a 10X Macro lens.
thanks for youre definition of macro lens been, lookin for different macro configuration's an how they ranked. thanks....
i gets dark real fast shootin in close. are butterfly lights problematic
dirtpusher wrote:
i gets dark real fast shooting in close. are butterfly lights problematic?
One reason that I like my 105-mm lens is the 6-inch working distance to capture 1:1 on the sensor. Most of my butterfly photos are really close-ups, because they are too large to completely capture life-size. I therefore tend to shoot at about 12-inches or so.
My O-Flash softly illuminated from a 3/4-circle, which preserves roundness of spheres (insect eyes) and cylinders (insect bodies). With light fall-off in "missing" 1/4 of lighted area, a bit of shading is introduced. This is not possible with a true, full-circle ringlight.
I rarely spook an insect working at 12-inches. I move quite slowly when shooting at 6-inches, because movement spooks insects more than size.
Erv
Loc: Medina Ohio
May I ask where you got your O-Flash? And Will it work on all the Nikon flashes. I see you use a sb600. I have the sb900 and sb800, will it go on both of my flashes?
Thanks, Erv
Erv wrote:
May I ask where you got your O-Flash? And Will it work on all the Nikon flashes. I see you use a sb600. I have the sb900 and sb800, will it go on both of my flashes?
I purchased my O-Flash on eBay for less than US$40. Mine was shipped from Hong Kong, but now there are several U.S. vendors.
Most O-Flash vendors on eBay have a chart that matches an O-Flash length with your camera/speedlight combination. Mine happens to be model F160 (160-mm from center of lens to center of SB-600 flash). Larger flashes may require model F170 or F175.
Erv
Loc: Medina Ohio
Thanks, I will go take a look. Now if I only had a metric tape, ha.
Erv
Erv wrote:
I will go take a look. Now if I only had a metric tape.
I used a 6-inch pocket (geek) ruler.
Nikonian72 wrote:
dirtpusher wrote:
i gets dark real fast shooting in close. are butterfly lights problematic?
One reason that I like my 105-mm lens is the 6-inch working distance to capture 1:1 on the sensor. Most of my butterfly photos are really close-ups, because they are too large to completely capture life-size. I therefore tend to shoot at about 12-inches or so.
My O-Flash softly illuminated from a 3/4-circle, which preserves roundness of spheres (insect eyes) and cylinders (insect bodies). With light fall-off in "missing" 1/4 of lighted area, a bit of shading is introduced. This is not possible with a true, full-circle ringlight.
I rarely spook an insect working at 12-inches. I move quite slowly when shooting at 6-inches, because movement spooks insects more than size.
quote=dirtpusher i gets dark real fast shooting i... (
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quoate'' With light fall-off in "missing" 1/4 of lighted area
thats what i feared... thanks
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