This summer we'll likely spend some time near lakes and ocean beaches and I'm looking into getting a circular polarizing filter for the micro 4/3, 12-40mm zoom, 62Ø lens.
In checking various reviews on the 'net, I've run into two phrases that mean absolutely nothing to me, can someone help me out please?
1. Number/Filter factor 2.3-2.8
2. Beamsplitting metering system (does the E-M1 have that?)
Are these items I should be concerned about? And if so, how do they affect my photos?
Don't worry about it. Get a good Hoya circular polarizer and have fun.
What rgrenaderphoto said, and when you're back please post some photos so us other m4/3 12-40 pro lens owners can see what the filter does for you!!!
kymarto
Loc: Portland OR and Milan Italy
Filter factor refers to how much the light is cut down by the filter. That would only matter to you if you are using an external meter to determine the exposure. The camera will automatically compensate.
In the old days, there were linear polarizers, which work fine but which affect the metering of automatic cameras. Most cameras with built in meters use a beamsplitting metering system of some kind, so you want to make sure to get a circular polarizer, which will not screw up your metering. Yes, the Olympus most probably has some sort of beamsplitter in the metering system.
I agree, I have Hoya filters for all my lenses. Good performance and not too outragous in price. Don't buy cheap polarizer filters.
houdel
Loc: Chase, Michigan USA
kymarto wrote:
In the old days, there were linear polarizers, which work fine but which affect the metering of automatic cameras.
Actually its the auto focusing which is affected, not the metering.
kymarto
Loc: Portland OR and Milan Italy
houdel wrote:
Actually its the auto focusing which is affected, not the metering.
The metering is affected as well AFAIK. It certainly was in the old days with my Nikon F4.
A quote:
There are two types of polarizing filters available: linear or circular. Linear polarizers are more effective and less expensive than circular ones. But circular polarizers are needed with just about any camera that has a through-the-lens metering system, or autofocus.
The reason for this is that both of these systems use semi-silvered mirrors to siphon off some of the light coming though the lens. If that light is linearly polarized it renders either the metering or the autofocus ineffective. This means that you're going to have to buy circular polarizers unless you're shooting with a pre-1970's camera, or a view camera.
If you want to reply, then
register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.