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Bug on Basil
Jun 10, 2014 19:45:30   #
Curve_in Loc: Virginia
 
I tried more handheld shot today. It was about 80* and the bugs were not staying still enough in the sun. This was in a shady part of the garden and the result came out better. D7000/SB-28 flash/105 lens/full set of extension tubes/min focus distance/ 1/125/ f8


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This one is cropped
This one is cropped...
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Jun 10, 2014 21:15:27   #
Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA
 
You have an excellent camera and macro lens. In order to capture true macro (1:1 magnification aka life-size), you must shoot at Minimum Focusing Distance, lens alone. A full set of extension tubes (68-mm) on a 105-mm macro lens at MFD = 2:1 mag (2x life-size). http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-36370-1.html

Technically, these images look like close-up photos, not macro-photographs. Many, if not most, insects are too large to capture entirely in a macro-photograph. Cropping from a close-up to a macro-photograph is possible, similar to your image #4. Do not hesitate to crop even closer.

Shooting in available light, as you have, I suggest ISO 400, so you can decrease your aperture to f/11, which will slightly increase DoF. Your shutter duration of 125-sec is appropriate for your lens focal length.
Here is the Exif info on your image #3.
Camera Model: Nikon D7000
Image Date: 2014-06-10
Focal Length: 105mm
Aperture: f/8.0
Exposure Time: 0.0080 s (1/125-sec)
ISO equiv: 200
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: Manual
Exposure Mode: Manual
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No

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Jun 11, 2014 00:24:19   #
A-PeeR Loc: Houston, Texas
 
Looks good Kervin. Are you sure you have the lens set to MFD? With a full set of tubes the magnification should be much greater on a cropped sensor. Perhaps the lens was focused to infinity. Illumination looks good, are you using a diffuser on your flash?

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Jun 11, 2014 10:39:03   #
Curve_in Loc: Virginia
 
Thanks for all the pointers. Yesterday, I wanted to get some consistent shots that I can make little improvements. I'm at %25 power with the flash for these. What I liked was the background stayed in the good exposure range. I think I need to go up in power with the flash. I'll try 50-75% next time. That will get me to F11 or so. If I don't get a fast enough flash recycle, I'll follow the earlier advice of getting a different model flash. I didn't like the noise from the earlier 50% crop picture I shot at 400 iso.
I pretty sure I had it set at the min focus, the bug was very small. I also took some shots of a squash blossom that I cropped 50% to show more edge detail.
Earlier in the day, I did a hike with the camera and tripod. I got some shots I like, but it was way too static to get any insect pictures.


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Jun 11, 2014 11:05:24   #
Curve_in Loc: Virginia
 
Here's my setup.



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Jun 11, 2014 13:33:39   #
Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA
 
I suspect that much of your speedlight illumination is going straight ahead, not down to your subject. That is why most of us use a tilting ballhead connector for our speedlights.

Also:
1.) make sure that the drop-down plastic diffuser is in front of your SB-28 lens;
2.) Check to see if there is a white cloth diffuser INSIDE your softbox, which can be stretched from one side to the other, and attached via a Velcro patch
3.) Can you set your SB-28 to WIDEST illumination coverage?

All three of these will further diffuse your speedlight illumination.

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Jun 11, 2014 13:38:44   #
Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA
 
Remember that your:
BACKGROUND illumination is controlled by your ISO, shutter duration, and aperture combination, just like a regular outdoor photograph; and that your
SUBJECT illumination is controlled by your speedlight output.

I set my ISO to 200, and exposure to 1/200-sec at f/16, which provides sun-lighted background at about 1-stop under-exposed compared to my subject.

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Jun 11, 2014 16:33:49   #
Curve_in Loc: Virginia
 
Nikonian72 wrote:
I suspect that much of your speedlight illumination is going straight ahead, not down to your subject. That is why most of us use a tilting ballhead connector for our speedlights.

Also:
1.) make sure that the drop-down plastic diffuser is in front of your SB-28 lens;
2.) Check to see if there is a white cloth diffuser INSIDE your softbox, which can be stretched from one side to the other, and attached via a Velcro patch
3.) Can you set your SB-28 to WIDEST illumination coverage?

All three of these will further diffuse your speedlight illumination.
I suspect that much of your speedlight illuminatio... (show quote)

Again, thanks for the pointers. I did not do #1, earlier you had told me about #2, which I did. I'll adjust to the widest setting the next time I shoot.

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Jun 12, 2014 16:31:19   #
Curve_in Loc: Virginia
 
Update. I changed the speedlight zoom setting to widest, tilted diffuser down on flash head, turned the focus ring in the other direction :( , iso 200, changed to f11 and flash at full power. I only got one shot (which I missed the focus) before the fly flew off, but I'm happier with the direction things are going.


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Jun 12, 2014 16:35:26   #
Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA
 
A bit fore-focused. This is why I rely on A-F, as the camera is better than I, at focusing on subject (small central spot).

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