Caysnowman Loc: MN & SC

I'm using a D7000 mostly with a Nikon 70-300 VR for birds. I've noticed that pictures that I have taken with subjects close (25 +/-) yards are generally sharp if I do everything else right but if I shoot a distant object ( 75 - 100 + yards) they are generally soft even though I used a tripod / bean bag on a car door. I found the 70-300 had a focus problem when I first got it but a setting of -6 on the D7000 Fine Tuning helped.

I was able to borrow a Nikon 300 F4 and found that the Osprey @ 100 yards and 30 feet in the air on a nest was softer than I thought it should be but did not have a chance for anything close up; I expect it would be very sharp.

Got to use a Nikon 500 + TC 14II on a sparrow type bird for 5 shots that were really sharp but again it was only about 30 yards away.

Using back button focus, spot Auto Focus and try to use some type of support for most of the longer shots. I realize that I need more practice and have to improve technique but at this point I feel I have more questions than answers.

Bill

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

If you are focused correctly, and are getting no camera shake, atmospheric condition is the culprit.

Edit: Bear in mind, also, that some lenses will focus a bit beyond infinity.

romanticf16 Loc: Commerce Twp, MI

[quote=Caysnowman]I'm using a D7000 mostly with a Nikon 70-300 VR for birds. I've noticed that pictures that I have taken with subjects close (25 +/-) yards are generally sharp if I do everything else right but if I shoot a distant object ( 75 - 100 + yards) they are generally soft even though I used a tripod / bean bag on a car door. I found the 70-300 had a focus problem when I first got it but a setting of -6 on the D7000 Fine Tuning helped.
I was able to borrow a Nikon 300 F4 and found that the Osprey @ 100 yards and 30 feet in the air on a nest was softer than I thought it should be but did not have a chance for anything close up; I expect it would be very sharp.
Got to use a Nikon 500 + TC 14II on a sparrow type bird for 5 shots that were really sharp but again it was only about 30 yards away.
Using back button focus, spot Auto Focus and try to use some type of support for most of the longer shots. I realize that I need more practice and have to improve technique but at this point I feel I have more questions than answers.
Bill[/quote
Do you turn the VR off? When on a tripod or other stable rest the VR will keep "seeking focus" and will cause a blur. Also, are you using a remote shutter release? A weight to stabilize your tripod? The tripod is sturdy enough for the lenses you are using?Have you tested the lenses for front/back focus issues and adjusted accordingly?

MT Shooter Loc: Montana

I highly recommend checking the AF accuracy of your camera, the D7000 offers AF Fine Tuning if the AF focus point is off. Check it with all your lenses, it is very easy to fine tune their focus if needed.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

Lenses do have focusing "sweet spots" - especially telephotos - it is minor - but does exist.

Linda From Maine Loc: Yakima, Washington

As RWR mentioned...haze, humidity level, air quality can affect long distance shots.

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

When viewing and comparing are you bringing like images to the same size by zooming in on your viewing screen (computer)?
This will affect the apparent difference in sharpness? i.e. this would spread the pixels and the resolving power of the lens. Hope I'm not just teaching you to suck eggs. Del

twowindsbear

Why are your photos soft?

Focus issues? Use single point AF & make sure your main subject is in the AF bullseye. Adjust your camera's AF if needed

Camera movement? Use a high enough shutter speef to freeze camera movement, add a STURDY tripod and a remote trigger as needed.

Subject movement? Use a high enough shutter speed to freeze the moving subject.

Atmospheric issues? Get closer, use a blind if you need it - shoot on a clearer day that doesn't atmospheric "issues."

If you post some examples, you'll be more likely to get more specific suggestions.

Good luck.

Caysnowman Loc: MN & SC

True, found that my 70-300 is more comfortable at around 250 instead of 300.

I thought that VR was off but I'll double check that next outing.

Atmospherics ring a bell; the days I have the most problems are usually hazy, IIRC.

I've checked focus points in Aperture and they are where I thought they should be.

Thanks to all for these and other suggestions.

Bill

MadMikeOne Loc: So. NJ Shore - a bit west of Atlantic City

Could you post a couple for us to look at? Check the "store original" box.
Another poster mentioned turning off the VR on the lens. I have the same lens and shoot birds at distances. Turning the VR off at higher shutter speeds definitely improves image quality.
I actually read an article on the subject posted on the internet. I will try to find it and post the link. It was quite thorough and specific.
Mike

MadMikeOne Loc: So. NJ Shore - a bit west of Atlantic City

Caysnowman -
I found the article about VR. Link is as follows:
http://www.bythom.com/nikon-vr.htm
It helped me. Hope it does the same for you.
MadMikeOne

Caysnowman Loc: MN & SC

You sure aren't! Still very wet behind the ears with respect to this hobby I've started, probably other things as well. I try to do a 100% view of the original shot without any other pp when I evaluate them.

Bill

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

I would also mention - if you are using a "protective" filter on the front, take it off and see what that does for you .....

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

Thanks for the great link !

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

Also even slight shakes (like those caused by mirror movement) are magnified as you get further from the subject.

For longer shots do not use "some kind of support" use a solid tripod.