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Long Exposure, Black Glass
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Jan 15, 2012 06:27:00   #
Adirondack Hiker Loc: Southern Adirondacks
 
Make sure your ISO is not in AUTO and set it to the minimum value. That and your smallest possible aperture and changing the time of day you shoot are your only possible options. Might look great with a full moon.

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Jan 15, 2012 08:06:57   #
RTR Loc: West Central Alabama
 
Bruce H wrote:
Anyone here doing long exposure using black glass? This evening I went down to the sea using a .9 and a 1.8 ND filters (first try). This reduced my light about 9 stops but I never could get my exposure over 4 seconds. Wasn't all that bright. I am reading on the internet about 10 minute exposures using a 3.0 filter (10 stops) mid day, how is this possible? My ND value I wasn't that far off, or so I thought. What am I missing? Hoya makes a 2.7 (9 stops) filter which I thought I'd buy if I can't make this combination work.

I set the camera manually using the light meter in camera, centered not under exposed or over exposed. My photos turned out under exposed. I'd guess the white surf might have had something to do with this although it was really grey and not white like snow. I might have to add some shutter time to fix that, not sure about how much? I wasn't happy with what I shot. Does anyone have some insight? If you have some examples please post them.

camera is a 5D with 27-70 f2.8 lens. these RAW photos were taken at ISO 100, F16, 3.2 seconds at 24mm, .9 and 1.8 ND filter on together, 9 stops, manual exposure, cable release. I'd like a longer exposure creating softer water.
Anyone here doing long exposure using black glass?... (show quote)


Well, you read it on the Internet so it MUST be true ;)

If you want a longer exposure for the conditions you described then add a 2.4 (8 stop) ND to what you already are using and voila, your required ss goes to 819 seconds (13 minutes, 39 seconds).

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Jan 15, 2012 09:42:11   #
photogrl57 Loc: Tennessee
 
Roger Salls wrote:
I'm not that familiar with Canons but there is no bulb setting?


There is a bulb setting on my Canon.

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Jan 15, 2012 10:50:00   #
English_Wolf Loc: Near Pensacola, FL
 
Roger Salls wrote:
I don't understand your comment Englishwolf. Mid day meaning? My question is, can you not set the camera so the shutter is open as long as the release is pressed? I have never seen a camera, either digital or analog, of any reasonable quality, where you couldn't open the shutter for what ever time span you wish.
Well, I owe you an apology. I saw bulb as a mean to add light via a 'bulb flash', the old magnesium filament burned to create an intense light (replaced by modern flashes). I did not think of it as keeping the mirror up.

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Jan 15, 2012 17:06:14   #
Roger Salls Loc: Stratford, CT
 
You mean to say...they don't still use flash powder! I don't know how long you have been around. Shortly after we were married 41 years ago, we move to CA so I could continue my education. I was working in a camera store and was cleaning out a back room and found some #11 flash bulbs, the kind with a standard light screw base. Clever me I took one home and put it in a light socket in the bedroom. Well my wife turned on the light that night...you might say the room was well lit...for a second. Funny how I was the only one who thought it was funny. Bathtubs weren't made for sleeping.
English_Wolf wrote:
Roger Salls wrote:
I don't understand your comment Englishwolf. Mid day meaning? My question is, can you not set the camera so the shutter is open as long as the release is pressed? I have never seen a camera, either digital or analog, of any reasonable quality, where you couldn't open the shutter for what ever time span you wish.
Well, I owe you an apology. I saw bulb as a mean to add light via a 'bulb flash', the old magnesium filament burned to create an intense light (replaced by modern flashes). I did not think of it as keeping the mirror up.
quote=Roger Salls I don't understand your comment... (show quote)

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Jan 15, 2012 17:24:18   #
English_Wolf Loc: Near Pensacola, FL
 
I was thinking of the magnesium glass bulb encased in plastic to prevent explosion when fired up... There was a setting on cameras for sync bulb upon a time... And no, I am not that old, just 55.
These bulbs were small and their connections looked like the Christmas light wire plugs.
So associated it with your 'bulb' comment.

Check pictures in this Wikipedia page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_%28photography%29

There was another kind, like the one I described above which was step up from the Kodak bulb... (Likely what you found (Kodak)... - You are lucky you did not set something on fire!!!)

The only thing I have to fear is the rolling pin (but it is well hidden)

Found it! http://www.flashbulbs.com/Philips_ph-1.htm (not sure what the pin-ups are about but...

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Jan 15, 2012 17:24:59   #
photogrl57 Loc: Tennessee
 
Roger Salls wrote:
You mean to say...they don't still use flash powder! I don't know how long you have been around. Shortly after we were married 41 years ago, we move to CA so I could continue my education. I was working in a camera store and was cleaning out a back room and found some #11 flash bulbs, the kind with a standard light screw base. Clever me I took one home and put it in a light socket in the bedroom. Well my wife turned on the light that night...you might say the room was well lit...for a second. Funny how I was the only one who thought it was funny. Bathtubs weren't made for sleeping.
English_Wolf wrote:
Roger Salls wrote:
I don't understand your comment Englishwolf. Mid day meaning? My question is, can you not set the camera so the shutter is open as long as the release is pressed? I have never seen a camera, either digital or analog, of any reasonable quality, where you couldn't open the shutter for what ever time span you wish.
Well, I owe you an apology. I saw bulb as a mean to add light via a 'bulb flash', the old magnesium filament burned to create an intense light (replaced by modern flashes). I did not think of it as keeping the mirror up.
quote=Roger Salls I don't understand your comment... (show quote)
You mean to say...they don't still use flash powde... (show quote)


LOL what a great visual

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Jan 15, 2012 18:01:32   #
Roger Salls Loc: Stratford, CT
 
Those #11 bulbs were great if you needed to light a large area such as a factory. Photograpers learned to set them up so the bulbs were touching then they would set of the first on and all the other bulbs would also go off that way you could light a huge area.

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Jan 15, 2012 18:11:18   #
English_Wolf Loc: Near Pensacola, FL
 
http://www.flashbulbs.com/power_of_flashbulbs.html (bulb flash)

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Jan 17, 2012 21:25:45   #
martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida
 
What he said. Here's an example of a morning shot before sun came over the horizon, I was pointing toward the west, away from the sun. I Used f/9 ISO 100 30second exposure and No ND filters. 30 seconds gave the clouds and waves a nice ghostly look. Not the best shot but just an example before sun rises.
robertperry wrote:
Doesn't matter that it is mid day, overcast,ND filters, there is still too much light for a really long exposure. Early morning before the sun comes up or in the evening before dark is a good time for long exposure photography. The less light the longer the exposure needs to be. Try photographing the scene at night using the full moon as your only light source ( moon not included in the photo ). With lens stopped down to f16, try exposing for 8-10 minutes. Use this time as a starting point. Make sure your batteries are fully charged.
Doesn't matter that it is mid day, overcast,ND fil... (show quote)



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Jan 17, 2012 23:50:39   #
robertperry Loc: Sacramento, Ca.
 
fstop22 wrote:
What he said. Here's an example of a morning shot before sun came over the horizon, I was pointing toward the west, away from the sun. I Used f/9 ISO 100 30second exposure and No ND filters. 30 seconds gave the clouds and waves a nice ghostly look. Not the best shot but just an example before sun rises.
robertperry wrote:
Doesn't matter that it is mid day, overcast,ND filters, there is still too much light for a really long exposure. Early morning before the sun comes up or in the evening before dark is a good time for long exposure photography. The less light the longer the exposure needs to be. Try photographing the scene at night using the full moon as your only light source ( moon not included in the photo ). With lens stopped down to f16, try exposing for 8-10 minutes. Use this time as a starting point. Make sure your batteries are fully charged.
Doesn't matter that it is mid day, overcast,ND fil... (show quote)
What he said. Here's an example of a morning shot ... (show quote)


Nice image fstop22, good composition, eyes move across the image from left to right. Long exposures make for an artistic view of the scenery.

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Mar 2, 2012 11:34:13   #
Bruce H Loc: Oregon Coast
 
if you are interested, in this video the photographer gets about a six minute exposure in mid day sun. ND filter is required. I'd guess my glass just isn't dark enough. (9 stop)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29GRpAVqGaQ&feature=related

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Mar 2, 2012 12:38:57   #
wessyfiesta Loc: wakefield united kingdom
 
This was taken with a canon 60D with an 18-55mm lens focal length was 20mm
F,stop F22
exposure 1.3secs
ISO 125
White balence cloudy
ND4 Grad
Shutter Priority Setting
I focused on the wood post to get the best result.

Whitby
Whitby...

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Mar 2, 2012 14:25:52   #
martinfisherphoto Loc: Lake Placid Florida
 
Bruce
go back and look at the photo again.. See the clouds? They should have streaked across the sky not solid as seen in photo, the guys is full of BS. Look at my photo on this post of 30 seconds, see the movement of the sky and only 30 seconds.
Bruce H wrote:
if you are interested, in this video the photographer gets about a six minute exposure in mid day sun. ND filter is required. I'd guess my glass just isn't dark enough. (9 stop)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29GRpAVqGaQ&feature=related

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Mar 3, 2012 00:29:32   #
docrob Loc: Durango, Colorado
 
1) examine the work of Michael Kenna - he's the guy whose shoulders you are standing on with this approach to perception.

2) try with different lens. Since the greatest effect of the time exposure will show in the water using a wide angle lens minimizes the water maximizing the tones least susceptible to time passing.

3) You are probably simply going to have to find through trial and error what works for you and for YOUR camera - that is part of the process and the rewards will be great - you will have a style - till the camera dies....then start all over again....maybe

8-)

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