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Here's a toughie
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Mar 22, 2012 19:11:02   #
pfredd
 
Couple further points many don,t realize....Think of RAW as just the data the sensor recorded, but must be processed to see. Like sheet music - you can't hear it till it is played on some instrument. The plug-in (with monitor) is like the orchestra for eyes, so we can see what the camera recorded as a pic. The image we see is still an interpretation of recorded data. To keep it we must record it. We can keep like original but to hear it we need the orchestra again. So we need some format that can be widely read. With music we use CD, tape, vinyl iTunes etc. In photography it's PSD, PNG, TIFF, JPG and a dozen more. The saved file size and usage may be a consideration. JPG is the smaller with the worst fidelity, RAW files 2 - 3 X larger, PSD & TIFF near 4 X bigger than RAW ( can be huge if saved with layers not flattened ).
You mentioned working with layers, the single strongest and best tool. I remember in earlier Adobe Elements layers were awkward to use but E 10 handles them more like PS5. Think about buying E 10, shoot RAW, process and print with E 10, save the RAW file and PSD or TIFF for printing again, or save RAW + JPG which can be used for web, e-mail and quality prints up to 4X6.
To any who say you must save processed files ( They can be enormous ) remind them the XMP from RAW is a map beck to that beautiful print if you need.

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Mar 28, 2012 14:08:21   #
Minceymomof9
 
Here is the best I could do. The snow on the ground is just dirty from being thrown by the tractor. The other snow in the trees has a lot of shadowing, and the trees that are closest to the car, the branches, that looks like ice to me.



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Mar 29, 2012 13:16:39   #
Minceymomof9
 
pfredd wrote:
pfredd wrote:
It's not a toughie at all. There are 3 different ways to correct, each taking no more than 2 steps in maybe 10 seconds.
1- Using bridge open in RAW then increase colour temp. or-
2- Open image in JPG as shot, go to levels and select as white a light blue such as along the gutter.
3- Open in JPG, select image Hue/Saturation then select CYAN,
set its saturation to -60 and lightness to +40.
Want a blue sky? Make an alpha mask, select that, invert, make as new layer then drop in a sky from your library, or a gradient of pale to rich blue.
Want green trees, duplicate the image then paint over trees with low opacity green brush.
Crop out the window post then size back to 3:4 ratio will not hurt the image.
It's not a toughie at all. There are 3 different w... (show quote)


Levels alone doesn't seem to be working for you. The white point is too high and blowing out the distant trees. Working with the small image I used #3 (above) leaving a little blue and dirt in the gutter cause snow in shade is blued.
The sky is not totally blown. there is enough saying it was partly cloudy with sun well overhead and to the right. Thus a polarizer would have been of no value. Then the devil made me add sky. Done with inverse alpha layer then dropping in a winter sky.
quote=pfredd It's not a toughie at all. There are... (show quote)


WOW! That's incredible! I bet you could make me look like Pamela Anderson... lol. Great job.

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Mar 30, 2012 15:53:17   #
pfredd
 
Minceymomof9 wrote:
Here is the best I could do. The snow on the ground is just dirty from being thrown by the tractor. The other snow in the trees has a lot of shadowing, and the trees that are closest to the car, the branches, that looks like ice to me.


Lookin' good. You're almost there. We could spend lot more time in cleaning up the ground snow, but as you said it is slush dirty in the real world OR, we adjust the white point which blows all detail in the sky and overwhelms the rest of the image. So, IMO, go to Levels [ image> Adjustments> Levels or Control > L ] or wherever found on your system to see the histogram. Click on the little arrowhead under the left side and drag it to just under where the histogram begins on the left. Then do same for the right side (this is where the action begins for you). The sky will lighten a lot, and look greener. That green is in your starting image hiding under the grey. Leave it, Snow on tree goes whiter, at roadside a little dirtier. Good tonal range—tempting to go black&white— but I like the blue green tint of winter.



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Apr 1, 2012 03:32:00   #
lachmap Loc: Sydney Australia
 
Hey this is a great idea. Set yourself a bad pic and try to fix it so that you can learn new techniques. :thumbup:
I often take pics from the car - not while I am the driver - as often you can't stop such as on a freeway or in heavy traffic. You can get some good angles and interesting subjects. I have attached a couple of examples.

anzac bridge
anzac bridge...

epping rd in rain at peakhour
epping rd in rain at peakhour...

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Apr 1, 2012 04:48:10   #
professorwheeze Loc: Maine, USA
 
digicamking wrote:
WxGuesser wrote:
Taken with a Cannon A40 f2.8 1/80th sec. Don't know what the white balance was.

I've tried and tried in PS to get the blue out but have been unsuccessful. (not that it's a great shot, I just thought if I could figure out how to fix it I would have another tool for when I have a picture I really do want.)

Any snow in the shadows is blue.


I would check the white balance setting on your camera. It might have been set on INCADECENT


Incadesent may also be known by your camera or PP as tungsten. My guess is that previously, you were shooting indoors. Set your camera default to auto wb when it shuts-off/turns-on OR shoot RAW + JPEG. Ray

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Apr 1, 2012 04:48:10   #
professorwheeze Loc: Maine, USA
 
digicamking wrote:
WxGuesser wrote:
Taken with a Cannon A40 f2.8 1/80th sec. Don't know what the white balance was.

I've tried and tried in PS to get the blue out but have been unsuccessful. (not that it's a great shot, I just thought if I could figure out how to fix it I would have another tool for when I have a picture I really do want.)

Any snow in the shadows is blue.


I would check the white balance setting on your camera. It might have been set on INCADECENT


Incadesent may also be known by your camera or PP as tungsten. My guess is that previously, you were shooting indoors. Set your camera default to auto wb when it shuts-off/turns-on OR shoot RAW + JPEG. Ray

oops! double-posted

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Apr 1, 2012 18:47:27   #
pfredd
 
Incadesent may also be known by your camera or PP as tungsten. My guess is that previously, you were shooting indoors. Set your camera default to auto wb when it shuts-off/turns-on OR shoot RAW + JPEG. Ray

oops! double-posted[/quote]

Why on earth would you shoot RAW and JPG ?

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Apr 1, 2012 19:54:08   #
lachmap Loc: Sydney Australia
 
Gday mate
I shoot raw and jped because I can quickly see the jpegs on a simple browser and instantly know if they are crap or not and also I can send them to friends. I delete the raw if the jpeg is no good. I also delete raw if they are not to be worked on in the future such as simple family snaps. The raw I keep are the ones I think may definately be worth working on and saving as a 300dpi TIFF.
Its just how I have my system worked out that I am comfortable with. :)

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Apr 1, 2012 21:46:56   #
professorwheeze Loc: Maine, USA
 
pfredd wrote:
Incadesent may also be known by your camera or PP as tungsten. My guess is that previously, you were shooting indoors. Set your camera default to auto wb when it shuts-off/turns-on OR shoot RAW + JPEG. Ray

oops! double-posted


Why on earth would you shoot RAW and JPG ?[/quote]

I will shoot both because it will give me a flavor of the image: I don't care to work on all of the images just those that are 4 or 5 *.

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Apr 1, 2012 21:50:28   #
pfredd
 
lachmap wrote:
Hey this is a great idea. Set yourself a bad pic and try to fix it so that you can learn new techniques. :thumbup:
I often take pics from the car - not while I am the driver - as often you can't stop such as on a freeway or in heavy traffic. You can get some good angles and interesting subjects. I have attached a couple of examples.


W O W —— Is this about what you got ? If not, it would delightfully polite if you post what you got, and how you achieved it.



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Apr 1, 2012 22:05:50   #
pfredd
 
lachmap wrote:
Gday mate
I shoot raw and jped because I can quickly see the jpegs on a simple browser and instantly know if they are crap or not and also I can send them to friends. I delete the raw if the jpeg is no good. I also delete raw if they are not to be worked on in the future such as simple family snaps. The raw I keep are the ones I think may definately be worth working on and saving as a 300dpi TIFF.
Its just how I have my system worked out that I am comfortable with. :)


If your system works it's the way to go. For what it's worth on a Mac we can highlight (but not open) a thumbnail pic in/of RAW and about all other formats, then one click of space bar and the image opens immediately and large in Preview, another click and it closes. PC might have such a hidden feature. Also remember saving in TIFF uses about 4X more disk space than in RAW. If any layer work done and not flattened TIFF may use 8 to 20X more memory
Cheers P

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Apr 1, 2012 22:14:38   #
lachmap Loc: Sydney Australia
 
That's ok. I only use TIFF if I manage to get it accepted by a photo agency. So far I have had about 50 accepted by one in Sydney.
At the moment I am not saving many in raw at all because I am not able to get many really good pics.

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Apr 1, 2012 22:15:57   #
lachmap Loc: Sydney Australia
 
What the???? LOL!!!!!!

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Apr 2, 2012 00:32:14   #
pfredd
 
lachmap wrote:
What the???? LOL!!!!!!


The point being what were your efforts.

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