Here's a toughie
Jan 7, 2012 15:13:17 #
WxGuesser wrote:
Taken with a Cannon A40 f2.8 1/80th sec. Don't know what the white balance was.
I've tried and tried in PS to get the blue out but have been unsuccessful. (not that it's a great shot, I just thought if I could figure out how to fix it I would have another tool for when I have a picture I really do want.)
Any snow in the shadows is blue.
I've tried and tried in PS to get the blue out but have been unsuccessful. (not that it's a great shot, I just thought if I could figure out how to fix it I would have another tool for when I have a picture I really do want.)
Any snow in the shadows is blue.
There is really nothing much you can do with an improper cooked jpeg out of camera. Good reason to start shooting raw.
Jan 7, 2012 20:38:23 #
Regarding the "blue snow" pix, while you may not like them for reality, I think the top one is just gorgeous from a purely artistic view.
Jan 7, 2012 21:13:10 #
Jan 7, 2012 22:08:15 #
Well, if this was a test, it was... interesting.
Applied a Curves adjustment layer, selected the midtone gray eye dropper and clicked on the road. A few other minor adjustments, but that was the best result I could come up with. It seems that despite everything, there really was some color information buried in there.
Applied a Curves adjustment layer, selected the midtone gray eye dropper and clicked on the road. A few other minor adjustments, but that was the best result I could come up with. It seems that despite everything, there really was some color information buried in there.
Jan 7, 2012 22:10:12 #
You could do something with the sky, too, once you get this far. It shouldn't be hard to isolate, and then apply a pale blue, most likely stolen from another photo.
Jan 7, 2012 22:53:50 #
picturedude wrote:
And all my life I worried about YELLOW snow.
Ahh, you know what to watch out for if you're making snowcream? :lol:
Jan 8, 2012 01:36:35 #
It's not a toughie at all. There are 3 different ways to correct, each taking no more than 2 steps in maybe 10 seconds.
1- Using bridge open in RAW then increase colour temp. or-
2- Open image in JPG as shot, go to levels and select as white a light blue such as along the gutter.
3- Open in JPG, select image Hue/Saturation then select CYAN,
set its saturation to -60 and lightness to +40.
Want a blue sky? Make an alpha mask, select that, invert, make as new layer then drop in a sky from your library, or a gradient of pale to rich blue.
Want green trees, duplicate the image then paint over trees with low opacity green brush.
Crop out the window post then size back to 3:4 ratio will not hurt the image.
1- Using bridge open in RAW then increase colour temp. or-
2- Open image in JPG as shot, go to levels and select as white a light blue such as along the gutter.
3- Open in JPG, select image Hue/Saturation then select CYAN,
set its saturation to -60 and lightness to +40.
Want a blue sky? Make an alpha mask, select that, invert, make as new layer then drop in a sky from your library, or a gradient of pale to rich blue.
Want green trees, duplicate the image then paint over trees with low opacity green brush.
Crop out the window post then size back to 3:4 ratio will not hurt the image.
Jan 8, 2012 01:52:59 #
As soon as I can figure out how to dual partition my 16G SD card so it has a Fat 16 and a Fat32 partitions and then put CHDK in the Fat 16 partition I will be able to shoot RAW. Canon doesn't believe in doing raw on their super zoom cameras.
Lest someone say 'get a real camera' I feel that I have a lot more flexibility my SX30 than a DLSR (The camera I took the picture with is retired). I know I can get more 'perfect' images with a DLSR but life is about trade offs-you can't have everything.
Lest someone say 'get a real camera' I feel that I have a lot more flexibility my SX30 than a DLSR (The camera I took the picture with is retired). I know I can get more 'perfect' images with a DLSR but life is about trade offs-you can't have everything.
Jan 8, 2012 02:32:31 #
WxGuesser wrote:
As soon as I can figure out how to dual partition ... (show quote)
If you have PS use bridge, highlite (single click) any jpg image then click on the only circle in bridge menu bar. You will then be in raw edit. Some commands such as lens correction and camera correction not available, but most are.
Jan 8, 2012 09:04:32 #
WxGuesser wrote:
As soon as I can figure out how to dual partition ... (show quote)
I know, isn't that crazy? Everything is there and they could make money by making it available, but it takes CHDK (a software hack) to bring it to life, along with a young ton of other features that are already there.
I usually shoot 4GB cards, but get the fastest that I can (aka Lexar).
Jan 8, 2012 18:39:38 #
pfredd wrote:
quote=WxGuesser As soon as I can figure out how t... (show quote)
Hey thanks for the Tip. While it isn't perfect it's a lot better than I was able to do in just Photo Shop.
Try two.
Jan 10, 2012 16:59:21 #
Some photographers are physically handicapped and do not always have the luxury of always getting out of the car!
Jan 10, 2012 21:37:52 #
Here is a technique I use to cure color casts. I use PSE 10, but believe this will work in any version of PS or PSE.
1. Duplicate background image on new layer
2. Select the dup layer
3. Apply filter>blur>average - this results in a solid, colored layer so don't panic
4. Invert (ctrl I on PC) - changes the colored layer
5. Change the Blend Mode to 'Color'
6. Lower the layer Opacity to around 20% - this is a judgement call on your part to get the color cast 'removed' and
7. Flatten image and continue with any other adjustments, etc.
Takes much less time to perform than to actually write out the process - once you work through this a few times. Good luck.
1. Duplicate background image on new layer
2. Select the dup layer
3. Apply filter>blur>average - this results in a solid, colored layer so don't panic
4. Invert (ctrl I on PC) - changes the colored layer
5. Change the Blend Mode to 'Color'
6. Lower the layer Opacity to around 20% - this is a judgement call on your part to get the color cast 'removed' and
7. Flatten image and continue with any other adjustments, etc.
Takes much less time to perform than to actually write out the process - once you work through this a few times. Good luck.
Jan 10, 2012 21:49:09 #
also rember to not trust your camera meter in a scene that is heavily white (snow) or black (coal mine) your meter works on the concept of making things an average 18% gray tone. you need to use exposure compensation if you want white whites and black blacks. otherwise they come out gray. cary a gray card in your bag for such eventualities.
Jan 11, 2012 19:24:31 #
sinatraman wrote:
also rember to not trust your camera meter in a scene that is heavily white (snow) or black (coal mine) your meter works on the concept of making things an average 18% gray tone. you need to use exposure compensation if you want white whites and black blacks. otherwise they come out gray. cary a gray card in your bag for such eventualities.
Another thing I didn't do was set my white balance for snow. (my camera has a setting for that) I probably would have had much better luck. I've taken over a hundred snow pictures (In Portland and in the Canadian Rockies) and I never remembered to set the white balance for snow. Oh, well it might snow next week, I can try again.
Ha! I just discovered that I will be going on that same road next Sunday and there will be snow on the ground. Let's see what happens when I set my camera correctly!
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