Eyesonly Loc: Winneconne, WI

I've been trying to correct what I thought was a focus issue with my D7100 or the lenses I was using. I've shot this butterfly slide with a Tamron 90mm, with and without filter, and with a 50mm f/1.8, with and without filter. When I load them into Lightroom 5, they seem to be in focus until I zoom way in to do some PP. Since I seem to be having the same focus issue no matter which lens I use, I'm wondering if the problem may actually be with the resolution on my 24" iMac. I'm attaching a picture taken with the 50mm, ISO 100, f/13, 1/3 sec exposure. I've left it just as it came out of the camera (minor cropping) hoping to get some feed back on where the focus issue really is. I'm not concerned (at this time) with the composition or lighting, just the focus. Any thoughts?

Butterfly Jewelry Slide

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Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

I'm assuming you are using a tripod? What is the load capacity of it ?...I'd shoot at around F11 to keep diffraction at bay too... The reason I ask about the tripod, is while it may support the laod on it, there may be vibration issues going on, especially with the aperture & shutter speed you are using....

Eyesonly Loc: Winneconne, WI

Thanks for your quick response. I'm using a MeFoto A1360 tripod (supports about 17.5 pounds) inverted with the legs extended only about 1/3. Also using a remote shutter release.

GC likes NIKON Loc: East Greenwich, Rhode Island

I'm thinking that I would put some light on this butterfly and up my shutter speed to see what that does for me first.

After your PP, what does the image look like when you print it ?? If it is fuzzy on the iMac, but prints sharp that will tell you something right away............about the iMac.

GC likes NIKON Loc: East Greenwich, Rhode Island

What is the minimum focusing distance of the lens you are using ?? Are you too close ?? Should you be using a macro lens for this shot ??

MT Shooter Loc: Montana

I downloaded and took a look at 200% and the image is definitely soft. I have to ask about two things. 1. Why F13 and 1/3sec exposure? Simply shifting your weight from one foot to another will move the floor under the tripod enough to easily cause a motion blur like this. 2. How good was your tripod? As it looks like the broach was on a flat table so your camera and lens were hanging over the side of your tripod and head in what is definitely an awkward position and the slightest of vibrations will cause motion blur with a 1/3 sec exposure, especially if the tripod and head is not of the best quality to begin with.
Check the DOF of the lens you are using at the shooting distance and use that optimum aperture to capture the depth of the broach. Use a VERY STURDY tripod and head, M-UP, as well as a remote release if you need that long a shutter speed as the mirror slap itself can cause enough vibration to blur the image. Make sure you have enough lighting setup to vibrantly capture the colors of the broach. And focus VERY PRECISELY, using Live View may help you to do this better.

EDIT: Looks like there were a lot of replies while I was slowly typing all this, hope it helps.

Eyesonly Loc: Winneconne, WI

Thanks for the many prompt and helpful responses. I'll try again using the Tamron 90mm, better lighting and faster shutter speed. I don't gave another tripod option so I'll just have to find a way to make do with one I have. I'll post again after I've done some more tinkering.

Eyesonly Loc: Winneconne, WI

I went back at tried with a Tamron 90mm Macro, f/7.1, ISO 100 and 1/40th sec. Lost some DOF going to 7.1 but the increased speed was enough to illustrate that the problem is more a question of poor light, slow shutter speed and photographer inadequacy, than of equipment deficiencies. I guess I'll be going light hunting in the near future. Thanks again for all the suggestions.

Butterfly Slide redo

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Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

You can shoot more straight on & the DOF won't be an issue. Angle shots like this will always have a DOF problem. I shoot a lot of macro (not product shots like this though) & I use a ring light for illumination as it gives me soft, shadowless exposures. It also allows me to stop the aperture down for increased DOF & it stops motion (mine or my subjects) due to the short flash duration...In your case, it pays to light it from both sides at say 45 degree angle with diffusers on the lights to keep spectral highlights to a minimum...

Eyesonly Loc: Winneconne, WI

Thanks S.S.

BboH Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD

Add to MT's comments - use a remote control, either wired or wireless.

davemar Loc: SW France

All as mentioned plus mirror up,
Using flash can negate any form of movement esspecialy on a tripod mount,i had issues but all looks good now,a great camera

naturepics43 Loc: Hocking Co. Ohio - USA

If I am reading you post correctly, you are taking an image of a (35mm slide)? If this is correct, it may be that the slide is not "tack sharp". Just a thought. If you are digitizing 35mm slides, a slide scanner may be a better option.

minniev Loc: MIssissippi

It appears you have reduced the likelihood that the lenses are the problem and eliminated the computer as the problem. That leaves you with (1) the camera (2) tripod or (3)user so you need to narrow it down. For most of us, user error is the most common problem.

I'd first try to take the tripod out of the equation by shooting this subject handheld at a very high shutter speed (high enough to stop a bird in flight) in low ISO in good light. If the photos come out sharp, the problem may well be the tripod. All tripods are not created equal. I have a different model of the same brand as you, and it suffers from slippage if angled down, even with a load much lighter than what is advertised, so I don't use it much.

If the photos are still blurry, you have at least one problem that isn't the tripod, so you then keep narrowing. Try different settings and techniques to see if you can get a better focus (aperture, manual vs auto focus, focus points, viewfinder vs live-view, magnified view.) Try photos of other things, then look at them onscreen, magnified, to see if you are having better luck with some subjects than others. One of my cameras will miss focus on white birds over half the time and jewelry stones, like white birds, are tricky subjects for focus.

These posted shots are very obviously soft even without enlarging, so you should be able to tell pretty quickly when you've found a likely culprit. You have plenty of people on the forum who'll help you figure this out as you go.

Eyesonly Loc: Winneconne, WI

Much thanks to all for the very useful hints and suggestions. I think the issue is pretty well narrowed down. This shot of a penny (flatter target) was shot with a Tamron 90mm Macro at f/7.1, 1/13 sec, with the mirror up and a wired remote release. Since I was mostly concerned with resolving the focus issue I haven't done any PP or changed my lighting set up. The issues appear to have been with the subject (angled and reflective) and poor lighting, but mostly with the tripod and the vibration transferred to it by the mirror flap - not to mention the slow learning curve of the photographer. It's great to have such a large resource of skilled photographers as is on UHH.

Penny

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