CPL'S, Nikon or B+W? Preference of Nikon - 77mm Circular Polarizer II Filter or B+W - 77mm Kaesemann XS-Pro Circular Polarizer MRC Nano Filter. Price diff is $10, so that's not a...

DaveO Loc: Northeast CT

Preference of Nikon - 77mm Circular Polarizer II Filter or B+W - 77mm Kaesemann XS-Pro Circular Polarizer MRC Nano Filter. Price diff is $10, so that's not a factor Don't want to spend more. Will use on Tokina 12-24 and Nikkor 85mm (B+W step-up ring) If relatively equal, it sounds like the B+W will clean easier. Thoughts?

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

DaveO wrote:

Preference of Nikon - 77mm Circular Polarizer II Filter or B+W - 77mm Kaesemann XS-Pro Circular Polarizer MRC Nano Filter. Price diff is $10, so that's not a factor Don't want to spend more. Will use on Tokina 12-24 and Nikkor 85mm (B+W step-up ring) If relatively equal, it sounds like the B+W will clean easier. Thoughts?

Sounds like a tossup.

I'll probably get a lot of flack for this, but the reason to use a circular rather than a linear polarizer is so that the auto-focus and in-camera meter will function correctly. This applies to film as well as digital. If you rely on either of these you would need a CPL.

If you can work with manual focus and an external meter, a linear polarizer should work better and can be a lot less expensive.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

DaveO wrote:

...Will use on Tokina 12-24 ...Thoughts?

It just occurred to me that you mentioned using a polarizer on a very wide-angle lens.

This is not going to work as well as it would on a normal or telephoto because a polarizer has its strongest effect at 90 degrees from the light source.

lighthouse Loc: No Fixed Abode

I also would not use a polariser on a step up ring unless it was essential.
They get stuck and it is a big pain in the butt. Bigger than you think. They can be stuck for weeks.
To plan to do it as part of your regular set up is a bad plan.

amehta Loc: Boston

selmslie wrote:

Sounds like a tossup.

I agree, but make sure you catch them, otherwise they will break.

amehta Loc: Boston

selmslie wrote:

I'll probably get a lot of flack for this, but the reason to use a circular rather than a linear polarizer is so that the auto-focus and in-camera meter will function correctly. This applies to film as well as digital. If you rely on either of these you would need a CPL.

If you can work with manual focus and an external meter, a linear polarizer should work better and can be a lot less expensive.

No flack, you've presented an option. Personally, I've paid for a good meter and autofocus system in the camera, so I want to use it.

DaveO Loc: Northeast CT

selmslie wrote:

It just occurred to me that you mentioned using a polarizer on a very wide-angle lens.

This is not going to work as well as it would on a normal or telephoto because a polarizer has its strongest effect at 90 degrees from the light source.

I hear you and that complicates the issue: cpl or bareback??

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

DaveO wrote:

I hear you and that complicates the issue: cpl or bareback??

For more information see: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/polarizers.shtml

DaveO Loc: Northeast CT

lighthouse wrote:

I also would not use a polariser on a step up ring unless it was essential.
They get stuck and it is a big pain in the butt. Bigger than you think. They can be stuck for weeks.
To plan to do it as part of your regular set up is a bad plan.

I agree to a certain extent. For a very nominal fee, Sensei has produced some very inexpensive " filter wrenches" that work, see B&H. Gottem and they work well. I would opt however, for a decent quality ring, and it appears B+W is a viable option and there are probably others. My deal is that I already own a decent 67mm CPL and would rather buy a good step up ring as opposed to another CPL, but wide angle usage is a tough issue to start with. Got to be careful or "unequal" distribution occurs.

FredB Loc: A little below the Mason-Dixon line.

I'd go with the B+W, simply because I have them and they are well made.

Also, as others have noted, you'll have some issues with the CPL on the Toki at wider than about 20mm, shooting any large area of the sky. Because of the coverage and the angle of the sun and all, you'll get dark bands on the edge of the frame. You'll need to experiment a bit and see just how wide you can go, and with what degree of polarization, to get around this.

Bret Loc: Dayton Ohio

I use B+W...Iv'e never considered a Nikon filter.

DaveO Loc: Northeast CT

Bret wrote:

I use B+W...Iv'e never considered a Nikon filter.

I want to agree, but these B+W's, for the same money, raise questions, and to complicate matters I would like to use my 67mm (usually on wife's lens), so I would entertain a step up ring so I don't have to buy another CPL. Wide angle usage bothers me and I would buy a 77mm if general consensus dictates. This would also facilitate usage on my 85mm. Gettin cheap if possible!

amehta Loc: Boston

Your Tokina is ultra wide at one end, but on the edge of "normal" at the other, with the 18-36mm FF equivalent. The CPL can still be pretty useful for landscapes, though you have to be careful about the angles.

DaveO Loc: Northeast CT

amehta wrote:

Your Tokina is ultra wide at one end, but on the edge of "normal" at the other, with the 18-36mm FF equivalent. The CPL can still be pretty useful for landscapes, though you have to be careful about the angles.

So your gut says okay, the 67 is okay as opposed to springing for a 77mm?

DaveO Loc: Northeast CT

FredB wrote:

I'd go with the B+W, simply because I have them and they are well made.

Also, as others have noted, you'll have some issues with the CPL on the Toki at wider than about 20mm, shooting any large area of the sky. Because of the coverage and the angle of the sun and all, you'll get dark bands on the edge of the frame. You'll need to experiment a bit and see just how wide you can go, and with what degree of polarization, to get around this.

:thumbup: