ltruex wrote:
I seem to have missed something by going to bed...it was a shooting test take a shot, look at the results and adjust settings as desired. I didn't consider you might use other than manual settings which totally gives you the exposure control...but if you try again, please shoot some street lights before taking a series and adjust the camera till you have an image of choice. You don't need a tripod honestly for my hands shake, and I still get good shots... I didn't mean to leave you short changed...sorry. L3
photogrl57 wrote:
AvailableLight wrote:
photogrl57 wrote:
AvailableLight wrote:
Wow... Gonna be tough... High ISO... Use you car as the tripod... Wide angles... Wide open F stop... And a bit of luck... Would love to see your results!...
Ok I set it on AV (aperture priority) ISO on 1600 so we'll see what happens ... might have to use the mini tripod afterall if I can't keep my hands steady ... thanks for the advice.
If you're using "aperture priority" the cam is still in a "auto" mode... You pick the "aperture" the cam picks the "correct" shutter speed... Sort of "semi automatic" mode... Your results will be long exposures, and blasted by lights as the meterig struggles to put the (mostly dark) photo at a neutral grey point between the bright lights and dark background that your internal meter "thinks" is right... It's very easy to "trick" your meter into not working for you... Like with strong backlighting...
Happy Holidays To All!
quote=photogrl57 quote=AvailableLight Wow... Gon... (
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UGH no wonder .... well that totally sucked ... 59 pictures and not one decent one in the bunch.
quote=AvailableLight quote=photogrl57 quote=Ava... (
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I seem to have missed something by going to bed...... (
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No problem hun ... I'm not much for driving at night anyhow
I just put some night shots in the photo section---wish I would have read this first. It helps me thanks for asking the question for me.
Not a big fan of night driving either, but I love shooting night pictures, and when the weather improves I will shoot my favorite...night neon signs where the goal is get the movement streaks that culminate into a finished image of the neon sign and you can read the sign with all the image that maybe included, for it makes a great post card...but I have to wait for the weather to improve. :-( L3
photogrl57 wrote:
ltruex wrote:
I seem to have missed something by going to bed...it was a shooting test take a shot, look at the results and adjust settings as desired. I didn't consider you might use other than manual settings which totally gives you the exposure control...but if you try again, please shoot some street lights before taking a series and adjust the camera till you have an image of choice. You don't need a tripod honestly for my hands shake, and I still get good shots... I didn't mean to leave you short changed...sorry. L3
photogrl57 wrote:
AvailableLight wrote:
photogrl57 wrote:
AvailableLight wrote:
Wow... Gonna be tough... High ISO... Use you car as the tripod... Wide angles... Wide open F stop... And a bit of luck... Would love to see your results!...
Ok I set it on AV (aperture priority) ISO on 1600 so we'll see what happens ... might have to use the mini tripod afterall if I can't keep my hands steady ... thanks for the advice.
If you're using "aperture priority" the cam is still in a "auto" mode... You pick the "aperture" the cam picks the "correct" shutter speed... Sort of "semi automatic" mode... Your results will be long exposures, and blasted by lights as the meterig struggles to put the (mostly dark) photo at a neutral grey point between the bright lights and dark background that your internal meter "thinks" is right... It's very easy to "trick" your meter into not working for you... Like with strong backlighting...
Happy Holidays To All!
quote=photogrl57 quote=AvailableLight Wow... Gon... (
show quote)
UGH no wonder .... well that totally sucked ... 59 pictures and not one decent one in the bunch.
quote=AvailableLight quote=photogrl57 quote=Ava... (
show quote)
I seem to have missed something by going to bed...... (
show quote)
No problem hun ... I'm not much for driving at night anyhow
quote=ltruex I seem to have missed something by g... (
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That actually sounds like fun.
I recall an instance where my night photography helped me capture an image otherwise not possible under given conditions...I was at the Exposition Park Zoo in L.A, and at the time had a Nikon F1 film camera with ectachrome (for home color development of slides), and push process. My setup was a large tripod to shoot Mammoth bones display. I had just completed the setup when a large group of turist came in...I couldn't wait for that group to leave as my time was already very short. Then I remembered a snow storm shot and did a long exposure expecting all the snow falling...was I surprised in the finish image it looked like a clear day with no snow falling...meanwhile back at the bones...I shot long exposures with people walking in front of my camera between me and the bones, occationally a person would pause and look at the camera. I lost only 3 images of that shoot. all the rest showed no people in front of the lens, and ghosting to those that paused to look at my camera. It was the amount of time if something is moving on a long exposure it may not show up in the final works. In those days I was young a daring for I used my camera to shoot gang members in candid work for police studies. I took shots between cracks in door peak holes...hoping they wouldn't hear my camera shutter noise. There was a risk of personal injury, or death if discovered. L3
lol I bet the ghosted people looked awesome in front of the bones. I really need to invest in a remote for the camera... I'm simply not patient enough for the long exposures.
Don't know if this will help but.............I have a Canon XTi and use TV with ISO of 1600, then look for the right shutter speed to use and I use a 75-300 zoom lens or a 70-300 macro.
overthemoon wrote:
overthemoon wrote:
ltruex wrote:
I recall an instance where my night photography helped me capture an image otherwise not possible under given conditions...I was at the Exposition Park Zoo in L.A, and at the time had a Nikon F1 film camera with ectachrome (for home color development of slides), and push process. My setup was a large tripod to shoot Mammoth bones display. I had just completed the setup when a large group of turist came in...I couldn't wait for that group to leave as my time was already very short. Then I remembered a snow storm shot and did a long exposure expecting all the snow falling...was I surprised in the finish image it looked like a clear day with no snow falling...meanwhile back at the bones...I shot long exposures with people walking in front of my camera between me and the bones, occationally a person would pause and look at the camera. I
lost only 3 images of that shoot. all the rest showed no people in front of the
lens, and ghosting to those that paused to look at my camera. It was the
amount of time if something is moving on a long exposure it may not show up
in the final works. In those days I was young a daring for I used my camera
to shoot gang members in candid work for police studies. I took shots
between cracks in door peak holes...hoping they wouldn't hear my camera
shutter noise. There was a risk of personal injury, or death if discovered.
L3
I recall an instance where my night photography he... (
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quote=ltruex I recall an instance where my night ... (
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quote=overthemoon quote=ltruex I recall an insta... (
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I used this same idea at our state capital in wi when I waited to photograph the tree. Only thing I did different was I used a neutral density filter. Lots of people walking around but in my photo none except one ghost which I cloned out
Are you refering to time laps work for the remote? I use Breeze Remote on my 5DMII, but have not yet tried time laps function. It won't actually improve your patients, and may get great shoots if you can leave the camera unattended...I never had the trust to leave a camera unattended growing up in ELA as I did. Oh last mention the ghost images with the bones...they were looking at me not the bones, or that would have worked...I see you have great sense of photojournalism. L3
photogrl57 wrote:
lol I bet the ghosted people looked awesome in front of the bones. I really need to invest in a remote for the camera... I'm simply not patient enough for the long exposures.
No no just to push the button. I'm probably calling it by the wrong name.
Oh, a self timer... you likely have that mode in your camera...check the manual...unless this is not what your after...perhaps a long cable release...just having fun with you :lol:
photogrl57 wrote:
No no just to push the button. I'm probably calling it by the wrong name.
ltruex wrote:
Oh, a self timer... you likely have that mode in your camera...check the manual...unless this is not what your after...perhaps a long cable release...just having fun with you :lol:
photogrl57 wrote:
No no just to push the button. I'm probably calling it by the wrong name.
That's it a cable release lol.
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