Wrinkles when framing prints
Dec 9, 2013 08:12:25 #
How do I flatten the print paper before I put on the glass so it shows no 'waves' when you see the reflection from a side view?
Dec 9, 2013 08:19:09 #
A little more information about what you are working with would be helpful. Is this a Wal-Mart frame, an older frame? Does it have real glass or the fake plastic glass??
Dec 9, 2013 08:20:43 #
Wrinkles are usually caused because the print is not set properly, meaning it should be tight ONLY on top and left hanging down naturally, it's own weight pulling down uniformly w/i wrinkle. A trick a framer taught me a long time ago.
Tight means held along an horizontal band, not glued.
Tight means held along an horizontal band, not glued.
Dec 9, 2013 08:25:01 #
Only tape the top of the picture to the mat, if you are using a mat. It will allow the picture to hang and not bubble wit
jwenz wrote:
How do I flatten the print paper before I put on the glass so it shows no 'waves' when you see the reflection from a side view?
Dec 9, 2013 09:08:11 #
Singing Swan wrote:
A little more information about what you are working with would be helpful. Is this a Wal-Mart frame, an older frame? Does it have real glass or the fake plastic glass??
Its a rather nice frame real glass - from 'Michaels'. I order the prints from Apple and they are on good quality paper.
Dec 9, 2013 09:11:33 #
michelleGD wrote:
Only tape the top of the picture to the mat, if you are using a mat. It will allow the picture to hang and not bubble wit
Two sided tape?
Dec 9, 2013 09:43:01 #
Dec 9, 2013 10:21:05 #
No, do no tape the print to the mat. Use linen tape. Place two pieces to the back of the print sticking out beyond the print. Then use two pieces of tape over the tape that is sticking out. This tape is to adhere the other pieces of tape to the mountboard. Then use linen tape to create hinge to attach the mat to the mountboard.
Dec 9, 2013 10:28:34 #
Rongnongno wrote:
Tight means held along an horizontal band, not glued.
Like what, for example? What would hold it in place?
Dec 9, 2013 14:21:03 #
He used a piece of acid free paper that was felt kind of rough.
He had two bands of it glued with a 'chemical neutral' to his mats so that the picture was under pressure from two sides.
This acted as a 'friction' break, I do not know how else to explain it, it was all about pressure. between the support mats.
The paper quality and size were a determining factor when using his method. Quality meaning weight per square inch THAT I recall fully since I was exposed to it when working for a printer (stationary and business stuff, nothing fancy like a publication.
I would guess the process and material he used can be found searching internet.
He had two bands of it glued with a 'chemical neutral' to his mats so that the picture was under pressure from two sides.
This acted as a 'friction' break, I do not know how else to explain it, it was all about pressure. between the support mats.
The paper quality and size were a determining factor when using his method. Quality meaning weight per square inch THAT I recall fully since I was exposed to it when working for a printer (stationary and business stuff, nothing fancy like a publication.
I would guess the process and material he used can be found searching internet.
Dec 10, 2013 05:54:05 #
I use photography tac spray and a plastic roller. The tac allows you to re-peel and stick to your hearts content.
Dec 10, 2013 06:46:45 #
Bobbee wrote:
I use photography tac spray and a plastic roller. The tac allows you to re-peel and stick to your hearts content.
Sounds like it may be worth a try, Where can you buy this stuff at?
Dec 10, 2013 07:28:15 #
Dec 10, 2013 07:44:23 #
Dec 10, 2013 09:11:09 #
Check out A.C. Moore for frames. They have a much larger selection. Use a pencil to mark the back cardboard where you want the photo. I use a spray adhesive on the back of the print and a soft cloth to gently smooth out the print.
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